mike rousseau Posted July 21, 2014 Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 Good afternoon So... 2005 F150 FX4 5.4L So I have a clicking sound in my front end... Passenger side... It has a metallic sound to it... A while back my passenger brake stuck and everything got burning hot... I got underneath and nothing felt loose or anything... The sound got stringer and more uniform in 4x4 Any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ecmilley Posted July 21, 2014 Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 Brake or wheel bearing. Seen lots and lots of f150 seize brakes and loose frt bearings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike rousseau Posted July 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 Brake or wheel bearing. Seen lots and lots of f150 seize brakes and loose frt bearings Ok... That's not so bad.. I took the brakes apart and filed where the tin slides go... I didn't know I had to do this when I did the brakes... So they aren't sticking anymore... Also I forgot to mention my ABS light and e brake light are staying on... I changed my e brake shoes and hardware today... And as far as I know the ABS sensor is in the bearing assembly... So bearing is making sense... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aplumma Posted July 21, 2014 Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 Sorry to hear this Mike. Maybe Bernie will chime in with a little wisdom also. Art Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishnsled Posted July 21, 2014 Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 Could be as simple as the cheap chrome plating on the rims peeling off and rubbing on brakes. I've had that on mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davey buoy Posted July 21, 2014 Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 I'm thinking bearing,as that is what the ABS reads off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
outllaw Posted July 21, 2014 Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 caliper seize? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ecmilley Posted July 21, 2014 Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 Lift the offending wheel give a spin and check for play. Usually the later fords its a rotor assembly but the there is aftermarket bearing only available. Any q, s dont hesitate to ask Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike rousseau Posted July 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 (edited) Ok So bearing assembly changed.... My vibrations at 70+km/h are gone... But the clicking sound is still there... And e brake and ABS lights are still on... I only hear the clicking when driving under 20km/h... I was also able to hear the clicking when I spun my front passenger wheel when it was still lifted.... Any thoughts...? Disregard... Vibration still there Edited July 29, 2014 by Mike Rousseau Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DOS Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 cv shaft u joint. you said its worse with the 4x4 engaged? That aint cheap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ecmilley Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 As guess bent/damaged brake clip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ecmilley Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 Make sure the tone ring isnt damaged on shaft Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike rousseau Posted July 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 Make sure the tone ring isnt damaged on shaft Definitely getting above my knowledge of trucks here... As guess bent/damaged brake clip Not sure exactly what that is either... I can get complete cv axles for $80 rack and from what I saw on YouTube I can replace them myself... That being said the cv shaft looks ok... Boots look fine... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike rousseau Posted July 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 (edited) Just noticed this... I'm not sure if this is related to the sound but now I have another part to get fixed... Leak where the driveshaft connects to the differential... Edited July 29, 2014 by Mike Rousseau Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike rousseau Posted July 29, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 (edited) Checked oil level and it seams fine Edited July 29, 2014 by Mike Rousseau Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimmer Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 There are some seals and bearing in the front of your differential that can go. I just replaced my rear end on a Ranger for $300, which was much less than the garage wanted to charge me. A minimum of $1500, but I know it would have been more when they got into brakes. So rear brakes and a diff from the wreckers all for less than $500. Car repairs can drive you nuts! I feel for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ecmilley Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 Put vehicle in 4 wd lift wheel see if it spins if it does broken axle. Make sure hub engages little vac line there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernie Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 The hubs disengage with vacuum applied.If vacuum fails it defaults to lock, just in case you rip off the hose in the bush.The noise could be a bad lock too. The leak at the diff is called a pinion seal. It will need to be replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernie Posted July 29, 2014 Report Share Posted July 29, 2014 If the red brake lamp is staying lit, check the brake fluid level.If low, this can turn on that light. If level is OK and the park brake pedal is fully retracted the fluid level switch in the master cylinder may be stuck down or has a bad switch (It's a magnetic switch). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike rousseau Posted July 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Put vehicle in 4 wd lift wheel see if it spins if it does broken axle. Make sure hub engages little vac line there I'll try that tomorrow Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike rousseau Posted July 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 If the red brake lamp is staying lit, check the brake fluid level. If low, this can turn on that light. If level is OK and the park brake pedal is fully retracted the fluid level switch in the master cylinder may be stuck down or has a bad switch (It's a magnetic switch). I checked and it looked fine I'll double check and top up of needed... Thank you so much everyone for the help... I'm learning a lot between you guys and YouTube... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now