Trailer Brake question again.

[HTHM]

I launched my boat for the first time since ruining and replacing the trailer axle with one that has electric brakes. I asked the supplier numerous times if that would be a trouble free system on my trailer, he assured me it would.

Launch procedure, disconnect 7 prong plug, straps, transom saver, plug in, back boat to the water, disconnect bow hook, launch boat, and park vehicle. The retrieval is done with plug disconnected, boat is safely on the trailer and ready for the road. All lights work, brake controller giving proper readout, and down the road I go. Pull the boat approximately 20 minutes, and the brakes activate and will not shut off. I ended up cutting the power to the magnets to free up the wheels. After that was done I had constant parking lights even when the van lights and motor were off. The only way to turn off the lights was to disconnect the trailer plug.

Any ideas?

This was the day before the storm, I am going to be very busy for the next few days, in light of the upcoming funeral. I needed to take a break and reduce my stress level, this did not help.

[HTHM]

Anybody?

[Fisherman]

Oh gawd, this is beyond fubar. Are the two tow vehicles the same make? Some actually have a 5 pin conector for the brake controller(Some Ford and GM trucks if I'm not mistaken) and then the brake controlers don't like to work. If they are different then maybe that's the issue. Or, there's a hot short somewhere with you getting +12V that's feeding from the vehicle trailer plug, through the trailer and back into the tow vehicle. What happends when you disconnect the brake controller from the vehicle with the trailer plugged in? (Just disconnect the cable at the back of the brake controller).

[Ralph Field]

I can't help, and I can not figure out why I have to read all mechanical posts.

[Fisherman]

I can't help, and I can not figure out why I have to read all mechanical posts.

Because you're curious and some thing just need fixin

[aplumma]

Separate the plug and read the pins with a voltmeter on the output side of the vehicle to see if it is the trailer wiring or the truck feeding wrong signals. Then read the trailer from circuit to circuit then to ground. You will need a schematic and know how to isolate the circuits. The problem with the brakes is they were energised either from a power to power short (rare but since you said they were locked up they were receiving close to full voltage ) or the truck was sending voltage when it should not have.

 

Hope this helps

 

Art

[kickingfrog]

I can't help, and I can not figure out why I have to read all mechanical posts.

 

Same reason I do maybe. Trying to learn from someone else's tribulations.

[BillM]

My suggestion would be to get someone who knows what their doing to look over the wiring for the entire trailer. No offense, but it doesn't sound like wiring is your forte.