24volt Bow Mount Trolling motor on 18' Alaskan

[RangerGuy]

Has anybody figured out how to run wires to the bow mount trolling motor on a Lund 18' Alaskan?

 

I looked quickly last night and they didn't install any wiring tubes running to the bow.. HOW CHEAP!!!

 

I'm wondering if anybody was able to use a wire fish to pull wire to the bow on this boat?

 

I'm hoping I don't have to run plastic conduit from the battery boxes to the bow, that will

look crappy on a new boat

Edited June 6, 2012 by RangerGuy

[Joeytier]

My dad has a year old 1650 Rebel. Trolling motor and main graph were done professionally, but he used a wire fish to set up his bow mount graph to the cranking battery a few weeks ago. Can't see it being a problem.

[RangerGuy]

Yeh I'm hoping I can fish them..but I will have to cut a whole in the battery boxes to even attempt it

 

I'm pretty hand and entirely re-wired my Ranger, so I figured why would I pay Lund to do it. Atleast I'll know

all the connections are done properly and the way I want it, if I do it myself LOL!

[lew]

My boat has a built in conduit running under the floor from the stern to the bow and it can be accessed from either end. It's meant to run cable from the front mounted charger to the rear mounted cranking battery

 

You may find the same set-up on your boat.

[Roy]

Why would you need to run conduit? Won't your batteries be at the stem?

[smally21]

if the flexible fish tape doesn't work you could try the fiberglass push pull rods...you could use flexible conduit instead of rigid..

 

are the trolling batteries all at the stern?

 

just talking i know nothing about the alaskan

[DRIFTER_016]

Why would you need to run conduit? Won't your batteries be at the stem?

 

If there is no conduit from front to back and you just leave the wires loose under the boats floor it is much more likely that they will eventually wear and short out against the hull of the boat. The conduit protects the wiring from chafing and damage.

 

If there is no conduit from front to back I would be lifting the floor and installing some. But that's just me.

I wouldn't want my conduit above the floor for estetic reasons.

[jedimaster]

Arn't you gonna have to change your name to LundGuy?

[RangerGuy]

I just read on another forum that the conduit is run up the starboard side, I only had time to check the port side hehe.

Some owners have found that end of the tube was filled with floatation foam. That's easy enough to deal with.

 

Problem with pulling the floor is it is rivited and they have a nice matching paint on them LOL!..

 

I will check tonight

[Steve]

I'm actually doing the opposite.

 

My 24v batteries are at the bow of the boat, but I have two trolling motors wired to them (bow and stern mount).

 

We ran conduit from the front to the back, under the floor boards....

 

i'd be surprised, with the way a alaskan is weighted, that they would want the 24v battery system in the back.

 

Your cranking battery is already in the back, with the main outboard, and yourself (as I recall, your boat is a tiller?)

 

You may find your boat will porpoise (sp). Mine does. (edit: IF I keep my 24v batteries in the stern)

 

However, my boat was designed with the battery compartment up in the front, not the back.

Edited June 6, 2012 by Steve

[RangerGuy]

Mine are goin in the front boxes as well

[DRIFTER_016]

I'm actually doing the opposite.

 

My 24v batteries are at the bow of the boat, but I have two trolling motors wired to them (bow and stern mount).

 

We ran conduit from the front to the back, under the floor boards....

 

i'd be surprised, with the way a alaskan is weighted, that they would want the 24v battery system in the back.

 

Your cranking battery is already in the back, with the main outboard, and yourself (as I recall, your boat is a tiller?)

 

You may find your boat will porpoise (sp). Mine does. (edit: IF I keep my 24v batteries in the stern)

 

However, my boat was designed with the battery compartment up in the front, not the back.

 

My boat has all 3 batteries in the rear of the boat. Putting the batteries up front will subject them to much more vibration and pounding which will shorten the life of the batteries.

 

If you have porpoising issues install a set of Smart Tabs they will get rid of the issue as well as make the boat handle better in the rough stuff and even give you better mileage.

 

As Solopaddler as he put a set on his boat and he is pretty happy with the performance gains.

[Sinker]

If your trolling batteries are going in the front, what do you need the conduit for? You will only need a few feet of cable to get to the batteries, no?

 

S.

[Steve]

 

that motor plugs in here.

 

 

so technically I'm running in reverse to most boats ... what a surprise eh!

[RangerGuy]

I removed the other battery box floor which is only screwed down and there is indeed a plastic tube running to the bow, which I got my fish wire all the way to the bow

 

So all is well, just need to find some good marine wire now..

Edited June 8, 2012 by RangerGuy

[DRIFTER_016]

I removed the other battery box floor which is only screwed down and there is indeed a plastic tube running to the bow, which I got my fish wire all the way to the bow

 

So all is well, just need to find some good marine wire now..

 

 

Cabelas has 6 guage tinned marine wire in bonded as well as red or black.

 

Marine Wire

[RangerGuy]

man! .. i don't want to order it ..i'm impatient LOL!

[DRIFTER_016]

man! .. i don't want to order it ..i'm impatient LOL!

 

Check out your local West Marine Store then.

 

You'll pay more but won't have to wait or pay shipping and duties.

 

6ga Wire @ West Marine