Rebuilt motors

[BFSC Kevin]

saw a late 70s johnson rebuilt 9.9 for 500. it being a rebuilt = good thing? anything in particular i should check for? Actually, I assume that it is going to be pretty decent, since it's supposed to be fix now right...?

 

well thanks for any replies!

[nel]

Rebuilt generally means that the motor was taken apart for cleaning (needed to remove the buildup inside), then put back together.

It's a good thing, because it's a part of maintenance...

[Hooked]

Its only a good thing when the person(s) who rebuilt it knows what they are doing, not to mind, taking those extra steps in preventative measures is a plus.

[Fishandchips]

Rebuild to me would mean the cylinder was honed, the rings replaced,new bearings,valve job,carb rebuilt,more than $500.00 to rebuild it,good deal if it was done correctly,and that the seller has receipts for the work. Brian

Edited March 6, 2007 by fishandchips

[JPD]

Fishandchips is bang on... nobody will tear down a motor just for cleaning. 90% of the time major damage has been done if it needs to be rebuilt. Could be from an Overheat that scored a piston, a blown reed that got sucked in and scored the cylinder wall, a blown ring giving the motor poor to no compression, the list goes on and on.

If the motor was done by a knowledgeable mechanic then it could be as good as new, just be sure to break it in again like it is new. All of those parts have to seat themselves properly. Run double the oil for the first few tanks of fuel. (25:1)

 

JP

Edited March 6, 2007 by JPD

[boatman]

I agree with Fishandchips and JPD. No one rebuilds a motor just to clean it. That is what Seafoam is for. Either she was super worn out or something devastatingly awful happened to that old girl. However, since it was rebuilt is wasn't catastrophic damage so it should be good to go. Those are pretty easy motors to work on. It'll probably be ok. In fact, if it was done right the powerhead should be like new mechanically. I'd ask why it was rebuilt and what was replaced. I'd also want to know the current cylinder pressure and if the motor has been run since its rebuild. Also, ask if the lower unit was examined and if the impeller was replaced.

[GbayGiant]

The good thing about those small old motors is that you can usually find broken motors for cheap with some good parts, and fix them yourself with little help or a little reading if they break down.

Edited March 6, 2007 by GbayGiant

[carll2]

il have to disagree

on my 2 stroke ski doos every 7000-10000ks i take it apart check pistons replace all rings and rebuild whatever needs to be replaced why you ask? for peace in mind, id rather replace all the rings when my compression runs low than have a blown motor down the road.

[Tybo]

The coin has been flip.

Heads, it will work like a dream for many years.

Tails, blown up by second season.

[BFSC Kevin]

Typo, it better be heads....

[Larry]

I had my 90 HP Johmson repowered if that was done to yours then it"s a good buy and shud last. Yes it has to be broken in just like a new one.

[ryanheritage]

whoa. Be very careful. Make sure the motor is running properly first. Older motors that get rebuilt usally overheated to the point of engine seizure. A 9.9 is the cottage motor that get beaten up for years and stored improperly. 500 bucks for a motor is still a good deal but there are alot of reasons why.... Coils, carbs, impellers. there is alot involved... Find out if they have changed the impeller for the water cooling system if so that usally means the engine has overheated due to no water circulating which will warp and bend alot of metal. alot of time that little $10 peice gets dryrot cause it was made from a type of rubber or plastic and it got really brittle and broke up causeing lots clogs and no water ciculation. There are way too many reasons for me to talk about why I would be very weary on this purchase. I had early 80's merc 9.8 same deal and it ran great then I found out it had all types of bottom end issues but it started and moved my boat so i didn't care. I did end up spending alot of time rowing that summer. I paid 450 for a rebuilt. I will never do it again. Im not saying not to get it cause it could be a great deal I am only saying to C.Y.A. (cover your butt) Its a very old motor and it could be a last resort to recoop some of the costs it has created for the owner.

[fishindevil]

the members have it bang on,i would not buy it. ..to much wrong and way to old,like the old saying BUYER BEWARE, and when something sounds to good to be true. ..well you know the rest....get something a little newer and you wont have those problems.....good luck in your deciesion....cheers

[Tybo]

A rebuild to me is you have the old core, and every thing

else is brand new. Reconditioned.

 

A strip down is you take apart the engine and replace

what is needed.

[Bernie]

It depends on who did the overhaul. Questions: Why did it require the work?Was it overheated?What kind of parts were used? Did they just deglaze the cylinder walls or hone or bore? Were new pistons installed? Was water pump replaced recently?Is there any play in the "Mag Plate"? How many hours on the engine? How is the compression? Is the lower unit capable of holding pressure/vacuum (to keep water out gear lube in)? If the job was properly done these can be a terrific little engine. The early models had a habit of plugging exhaust ports using poor quality and/or too much oil. I may have missed a couple things here but you get the idea. My suggestion would be to take any used engine to a reputable repair shop to have these things checked before a purchase. A few bucks spent before buying can save you huge later (and maybe save a few paddle strokes). If the seller does not agree to it simply dont buy it.

[Reid]

Just remember: buyer beware. Make sure it runs before paying for it.

[Garyv]

Add a couple hundred to it and buy something newer, preferably from someone you know or a dealer that will give you some warranty. If you do the latter put money down to hold it and pick it up when your ready to use it and then do just that I.E. use it and use it and use it to make sure everything seems ok.

Edited March 8, 2007 by Garyv

[boatman]

Carll2, you are the exception to the rule. I shouldn't have said no one rebuilds a motor just to clean it. I should have said ALMOST no one! I'm sure that is not why this one was rebuilt.

 

Anyway, a late 70's OMC is not too old. All parts are still available and relatively inexpensive. Also they are very reliable motors. In fact, I have several OMC's from the 1950's and they run beautifully. But keep on thinking they are too old. You are helping keep the resale on old motors low, which is great for me!

 

I probably wouldn't buy a rebuilt motor just because I'd rather do it myself, but I wouldn't say not to buy one either. It could be that this motor is now like new and better than a used one 20 years newer. We don't know this motor so no one can really comment where it is worth buying or not. Ask the seller a lot of questions and take it to a shop if it gives you piece of mind. $500 is not a lot for this motor, but then again he/she wouldn't get much more regardless of the condition.

 

I'll restate from above: Ask why it was rebuilt and what was replaced. I'd also want to know the current cylinder pressure and if the motor has been run since its rebuild. Also, ask if the lower unit was examined and if the impeller was replaced.

[Bernie]

$500 for an outboard isn't a lot but it could be a total waste if it turns out to be a dud. Hey Boatman, the late 50's outboards were works of art. Loved them. We still get them in for repairs. Beautiful engines. Well built , strong and smooooooth. The downside is environmentally very unfriendly and hard on fuel.

[boatman]

You got that right, Nippissing! I wish there was a magic oil that would allow me to run something leaner than 24:1.

 

Any used motor can be a dud, whether is costs $500 or $5000 or is a late 70's or 90's.

[BFSC Kevin]

i got some answers from the seller:

 

 

"Stored in our shed at the cottage but it does go below freezing. Have stored it there for the past 15 years no problem.

The motor was rebuilt as it was not starting well. I think most of the work was on the fuel and ignition systems. This has CDI electronic ignition by the way. The whole motor was checked. Don't think the impeller was replaced. Lost the receipt. I'm not sure exactly what they did but around $200-300 worth of work.

 

Of course we can show it running.

 

We used it for several years since the work was done, just bought the new motor in 06.

 

Feel free to do a compression test."

 

 

I'm just waiting for the seller to pick it up from his cottage so i can take a look.

[boatman]

That motor was not rebuilt. The carburetor was. Maybe some ignition parts, but who knows? Probably lower unit serviced, spark plugs replaced. The usual. For $200-300 they had more done than just the carb, but certainly no engine rebuild. He obviously doesn't think there is anything wrong with that motor. Check the lower unit oil, see it run, check compression if you want and if everything is ok - take it home.

 

If you buy it. Change the lower unit oil and replace the impeller. It needs a new impeller.

Edited March 8, 2007 by boatman

[BFSC Kevin]

changing oil i always do but new impeller eh? why do you think so? not to offend you, just to learn.

[boatman]

Because the owner obviously doesn't know when it was last changed so neither do you. The impeller is a rubber star shaped piece that is the heart of your cooling system. It should be changed every 5 years or sooner. Especially if the motor is stored at the ambient air temp. The freeze thaw cycle rapidly deteriorates the rubber. If it fails you could overheat your engine and fry it. Its a $20+ part that will take you 15 minutes to change. Might be a $100 bill at the marina.

[BFSC Kevin]

ah.. i see.. well yup.. i know what the impeller is. have a manual and all but never changed it myself. the book is somewhat confusing. im guessing a 70s 6hp would be roughly same as 70s 9.9 in terms of where to get to the impeller.

 

or just buy another manual =p

Edited March 8, 2007 by kevin