Elberta Clip'er Fixed Slider (Downrigging)

[bluesky1713]

Just wondering if anyone has used the Elberta Clip'er Fixed Slider to add lines/lures when downrigging. If so, what was your experience? Are there any alternatives to this product (only a few distributors and all in the U.S.)? What is the best way to home-rig a slider?

 

http://www.legendaryproduct.com/Fixed_Slider_1.asp

 

Thanks!

[anders]

We use a large snap swivel, attached to a 6-8ft length of 20-30lb mono and attach our lure. This does the same trick no?

When downrigging, your line is in a bow no matter how much slack is removed, where the bow ends up, is where your swivel should stop.

 

We call em "cheater lines"

Edited May 7, 2010 by anders

[bluesky1713]

Do those work for you, Anders? I guess my thoughts on that are that you don't know exactly what depth that line is trolling at, and when you get a fish on it aren't there issue with line snaps when the cheater swivel slides down to the main line swivel?

[anders]

Do those work for you, Anders? I guess my thoughts on that are that you don't know exactly what depth that line is trolling at, and when you get a fish on it aren't there issue with line snaps when the cheater swivel slides down to the main line swivel?

 

They work for us...when we get a fish, the rod releases 50% of the time, the others times its shakes...adn yes, when it does release, reel in the slack and set the hook...the swivel will then slide down the main line to the end of it.

[bluesky1713]

I usually tighten the slack to the max so that my rod/line is as tight to the release as possible. Will a free slider/cheater work in this case still? Also, do you ever have problems with the two swivels tight against each other when you're fighting a fish?

[Billy Bob]

For a FIXED slider just use a rubber band to keep it in place after you use a snap to your main line...this way you can hold the cheater line at any distance above the cannon ball you wish...I hope I made this clear, if not let me know.

 

Bob

[anders]

I usually tighten the slack to the max so that my rod/line is as tight to the release as possible. Will a free slider/cheater work in this case still? Also, do you ever have problems with the two swivels tight against each other when you're fighting a fish?

 

Still works as we try to keep it as tight as possible as well, and we have never had an issue with the swivels together when fighting a fish.

 

Almost all the Salmon fisherman up here use this system, although the length of the cheater line is varied.

[Sinker]

I just use the snap swivel too. It works fine, but you don't really know what depth its running.

 

For a fixed cheater, you half hitch a small rubber band to your mainline, then thru the swivel when you snap it on your mainline. That way you know what depth its at, and when a fish hits, the rubber band breaks, and the swivel slides to your mainline swivel. Works great.

 

Does that make sense ?

 

S.

[bluesky1713]

I think I understand. Do you actually slip the rubber band loop onto the swivel snap before you close it? Is the rubber band able to go into your reel when you bring the fish in if it hits on the cheater? What happens if you get a fish on the main line?

[Twocoda]

a cheater is roughly the half distance of your canon ball set depth ( 60 ft your cheater will run roughly 30 feet down from the bow in the fishing line)

If you want to "stack" rods to get another controlled depth from the same cannon ball you can use stackers to introduce the second rod (10 to 15 feet higher then the first mainline) and throw another cheater over ...this setup will give you lures at 60 (first mainline) 45 (second mainline) 30 ( first cheater) 25 ( second cheater)

 

As stated cheater lines vary in length ...the longer the line the more effective but the water needs to be calm so as not to tangle on turns... shorter cheater lengths allow you to make more aggressive turns and change the speed of the presentations from one side of the boat to the other.

 

 

Lake Huron has the exception for two rods per person but Georgian is only one....make sure you know how many rods your allowed per person before "stacking rods" to accomadate the number of people on the boat...

 

elastic bands for your cheaters are effective but as an option you can simply put on removable split shot (above and below)the cheaters snap..

 

Are you confused now ???lol

Edited May 7, 2010 by Twocoda

[Billy Bob]

I think I understand. Do you actually slip the rubber band loop onto the swivel snap before you close it? Is the rubber band able to go into your reel when you bring the fish in if it hits on the cheater? What happens if you get a fish on the main line?

 

Yes, as someone else better explained..you use a half hitch onto the mainline and then put the loop into the swivel snap...the band will break and might or might not go through your guides of just slide along the line at the tip of your rod...if you get a fish on the main line same thing but now you sometimes need to remove the cheater when it reaches you, sometime not required...sometimes TWO FISH...

[DRIFTER_016]

We use a large snap swivel, attached to a 6-8ft length of 20-30lb mono and attach our lure. This does the same trick no?

When downrigging, your line is in a bow no matter how much slack is removed, where the bow ends up, is where your swivel should stop.

 

We call em "cheater lines"

 

Yep, same here.

The cheaters put a lot of fish in the boat for me over the years.

2 snap swivels and a 6-8 foot chunk of 20-30# mono and you're good to go.

Set your line at depth snap a lure on one end of the cheater, snap the other on the main line and toss it out behind the boat. It will drop down about 1/2 way to the cannon ball.

Edited May 7, 2010 by DRIFTER_016

[Billy Bob]

a cheater is roughly the half distance of your canon ball set depth ( 60 ft your cheater will run roughly 30 feet down from the bow in the fishing line)

 

 

Actually that is referred to as a "Slider" as it will slide up and down at it's own will but as you said about half way down from the cannon ball...a cheater is rigged the same way BUT a rubber band is included to FIX the cheater at a desired depth, say 15 feet above the cannon ball in 100 feet of water....there are endless ways of rigging and getting tangled..

[Spiel]

I've used these for years, they're no muss, no fuss and can be set up quickly at any depth.

 

http://www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_44716_225014000_225000000_225014000_225-14-0

[Twocoda]

Actually that is referred to as a "Slider" as it will slide up and down at it's own will but as you said about half way down from the cannon ball...a cheater is rigged the same way BUT a rubber band is included to FIX the cheater at a desired depth, say 15 feet above the cannon ball in 100 feet of water....there are endless ways of rigging and getting tangled..

 

cheater/slider/snubber....pickerel /walleye

 

regardless of the set up technique we have always referred to them as cheaters...but it does make sense to refer to them as their action...

[irishfield]

Remember.. you can have 4 hooks on any one line! So when downrigging, on 1 rod... put a swivel on the end.. and tie a couple 6 foot lengths of line on with snaps/swivels...with a crank bait (2 hooks) on one line and a spoon (1 hook) on the other. Then take a 6 foot line with snaps and a spoon (1 hook) as a slider and just clip it to the rod line after you've lowered the original pair of baits to depth. Now all hell is gonna break loose when you get a triple header on that rod... but it sure does increase your chances, legally, and also allows the guy that is out alone to get three different baits in the water!

[bluesky1713]

You lost me, Wayne. I understand the main line/cheater (fixed and slider) setup, but your tip about the crank bait/spoon setup at the end of the main line confused me.

[SlowPoke]

You lost me, Wayne. I understand the main line/cheater (fixed and slider) setup, but your tip about the crank bait/spoon setup at the end of the main line confused me.

 

At the end of your line tie on a 3 way swivel. One ring for the main line, one for the crankbait and one for a spoon. When you deploy, drop the crank in the water while holding onto the spoon. Let it dive and then toss the spoon in. Let out another 10'+ and add a cheater.

 

The crankbait is diving, the first spoon is trailing flat and the cheater is running flat. It works but it's a hell of a mess when you reel back in.

[Billy Bob]

At the end of your line tie on a 3 way swivel. One ring for the main line, one for the crankbait and one for a spoon. When you deploy, drop the crank in the water while holding onto the spoon. Let it dive and then toss the spoon in. Let out another 10'+ and add a cheater.

 

The crankbait is diving, the first spoon is trailing flat and the cheater is running flat. It works but it's a hell of a mess when you reel back in.

 

I use to do this off of planer boards...running two lures per line just like you described with a 3 way swivel...works GREAT and have often caught 2 walleyes at one time thinking I just won the South Town Walleye Derby only to find two 6 pound walleyes on my line...

[bluesky1713]

Wow, that sounds like a disaster waiting to happen. However, with the one rod per person rule on GB, I may have to try some variation of this out.

[SlowPoke]

Wow, that sounds like a disaster waiting to happen. However, with the one rod per person rule on GB, I may have to try some variation of this out.

 

It's a real mess when you're trolling for walleye on Erie and you get a sheephead. They come back to the boat with the same action as a flasher... rolling.

I've always used light lines for this rig but I bet a heavy fluoro line would ease in untangling. Easier to see the tangle and unwind.

[SlowPoke]

I should also add...

The three way swivel isn't necessary but it makes it easier to untangle. Hold the swivel and put the main line over your shoulder (out of the way) and let the tangled lines hang. Poke your finger in the gap between the lines and pull down slowly to seperate them.