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Rod Building


danbouck

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I'm thinking about trying (key word) to make myself a custom spinning rod this year. I know there are a few rod builders on the site and I'm curious how much time on average goes into making one. I'm thinking a 7' st. croix blank and a possible split grip. I am assuming that it is very delicate work to make it perfectly and it will take me a while.

 

My wife says that I can't spend the money on any higher end rods <_< so this might be an alternative. Thanks for trying JPD lol

 

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

Dan

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http://www.rodbuildingforum.com/

Check it out. Also do allot of reading before hand, stop in at the library, get some magazines, go online, whatever. Put allot of effort and research into this, and you will get a nice finished product that is priceless compared to the newest St. Croix rod off the shelf. I've been sorta in and out of the idea of rod building for some time now, and I'm almost at the point of taking the plunge myself. The initial investment for decent equipment will actually be more than a new rod too, keep that in mind. However, you can do it for allot cheaper if you take shortcuts.

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I agree , do a lot of research. You will need some sort of rotating device to turn the rod when the final epoxy coat is put on to prevent sagging of the final coat. I use a BBQ roisery motor. It should be a slow (5-20 rpm) rotating motor.

 

Read carefuuly how to identify the "spline" on the blank. That is very important. Next, any guide spacing charts are just a starting point. To really get the rod to perform at it's peak you will have to adjust the guides under load. You might even have to add or take away a guide to get the best results. The rule of thumb is one guide per foot of rod. That means that a 7 ft rod would have about 7 guides (+/-).

 

 

Glue your rear grip on first. If you are using individual corks you'll have to make a simple cork press. next comes the reel seat. Use graphite bushings rather than masking tape uner the seat. I found the the tape dampens the vibrations that pass through the blank to the reel seat when fishing.

Next add the fore grip if you want one. Shape the cork if you used individual corks. Add winding check and hook keeper as desired.

 

Next get your guides. Use the best you can get. I prefer SIC titanium frame guides. Using hot glue (Archery cement is the best I found) not epoxy, glue on the tip top based where the spline is. File the top of the foot down so that the thread can easily "climb" up on the foot when wrapping. Remove all sharp edges and noticible bumps. Tape them on your rod and test under load. Adjust as neccesssary.

 

Next comes the wrapping of the guides. WhenI first started, I would try to create the fanciest artwork I could come up with. It did nothing to improve the function of the rod, but they did look nice. Now I use a one colour wrap with a gold or silver band in the middle. Simple, easy and it looks nice.

 

Add colour preserver (yes even if the thread doesn't need it), it will fill in the small air gaps for the final coat.

 

Add final coat and allow to rptae for at least 12 hours. Add butt cap and your done.

 

Not that is probably the shortest explaination on how to do it.

 

Read and research this stuff thoughly and you be turning out rods pretty fast soon enough. I sarted over 40 years ago a,d I only buy a rod from a store as a "loner". All my (100+) rods have been made by me. A great hobby in the winter.

 

muddler

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Guest ThisPlaceSucks
This book is a great place to start: Rod Building Guide

 

i 2nd that book. it helped me a lot. i also own a dvd called "Custom Rod Building with Doc Ski". in this dvd he builds a tuna rod or something, but it was interesting to see a rod tied on such a large scale.

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Drifter that rod looks sweet.

Has to feel great landing a fish on your own work.

 

your assuming he lands fish....just kidding ....it is a very nice rod...did you turn the reel seat as well??? what kind of wood? and what did you finish it with the hold up to the moisture ???

 

sorry Dan not trying to step on your thread but a little more insight from drifter could only be beneficial to everyone that reads this

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your assuming he lands fish....just kidding ....it is a very nice rod...did you turn the reel seat as well??? what kind of wood? and what did you finish it with the hold up to the moisture ???

 

sorry Dan not trying to step on your thread but a little more insight from drifter could only be beneficial to everyone that reads this

 

 

np I was gonna ask myself

 

Thanks for all the help so far

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My wife says that I can't spend the money on any higher end rods <_< so this might be an alternative. Thanks for trying JPD lol

 

 

first piece of advice is customs almost always end up heading towards rods taht cost more than anything you buy off the shelf. just don't let the wife know and don't apply the blank labels. :D The first few will probably be less expensive, then the floodgates open when you see the world of high end parts and possibilites you never see on a factory rod.

 

Give the micros a shot. They've been on custom rods for maybe 1.5 years and 2 major rod companies have announced micro rods in their lineups. If you think the split grips made a fast transistion from customs to factory, i think micros will become even more popular.

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your assuming he lands fish....just kidding ....it is a very nice rod...did you turn the reel seat as well??? what kind of wood? and what did you finish it with the hold up to the moisture ???

 

sorry Dan not trying to step on your thread but a little more insight from drifter could only be beneficial to everyone that reads this

 

Seat, handle and butt cap were all turned by me. B)

They are cocobolo and finished with Tru-Oil gun stock finish.

I'm currently making a butt cap and winding check for Mike aka Solopaddler that is finished with CA (superglue)

If you want to learn about finishing with CA just google "pen turning" or "ca wood finish".

 

first piece of advice is customs almost always end up heading towards rods taht cost more than anything you buy off the shelf. just don't let the wife know and don't apply the blank labels. :D The first few will probably be less expensive, then the floodgates open when you see the world of high end parts and possibilites you never see on a factory rod.

 

 

This is true. I wnet from cheapie blanks while learning and my newest blank is a Sage 7136-4 Spey blank that I'm tying as a float rod. Complete with fugi titanium sic guides, strubel nickle silver skeleton seat, $60 worth of high end cork and some spendy died and stabilized big leaf maple burl.

Cost of all components about $600!!!! :w00t:

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Nice work drifter. I really like cocobolo...you may also like goncalo alves.

I have chisels and saw handles made from both.

 

PS please don't post any more pics.....I don't need any more hobbies...especially the expensive ones...then again...maybe i could sell a few rods to cover it :huh:

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Lots and lots of good advice here Dan.

 

Best suggestion, buy a low price rod kit to learn on (Cabelas has them), thus giving you some experience before investing on high end blanks.

 

Is this going to save you money, not likely! :)

 

There's definitely start up costs to consider. You're definitely going to need a slow RPM lathe of some sort to ensure a quality finish or the rod will end up looking like crap, no matter how nice the windings are.

 

If at any point you need some advice, no matter how trivial it may seem, send me a PM. I'd be happy to help. :)

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