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Worm Harnesses


Dara

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Can you guys help with this.

I have to make up a few walleye spinner rigs.

Specifically a double hook worm harness type thing, for use with a bottom bouncer

I have been told to make em about 30-36" long.

What knots do I use for, first hook, secong hook, I will be tying a swivel on the end so thats easy enough.

I'm using 15lb seaguar abrazx flourocorbon

 

Thanks

Dara

Edited by Dara
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Use a snell knot for both hooks. Start with the total length of line that you want the whole harness to be. Tie the bottom hook first, then the second hook the distance you want (I use about 3-4 inches for mine). Then add your beads and clevis (I use quick change, so that I can change spinner blade colour and size without re-tying the whole rig). For the other end you can add a swivel or a snap or leave it plain depending on what you are attaching it to. I use 3-way rigs and bottom bouncers the most.

 

For line the conditions you fish will obviously play a role, but I use 8-12lb fluorocarbon LEADER material, but I used to use 6-10lb mono with no major issues, although that was before braided line. My harnesses are about 24-48 inches with 36 inches being the norm.

 

Good site for knots, although there are many others:

http://www.animatedknots.com/indexfishing.php

 

Good luck, play around and see what happens.

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Dara save your self the hassel. Bass Pro Shop sell's pre made rigs. They are 48" long with two hook's and you have your choice of a red hook on the top or plain. I recomend getting the red hook! The leader line is fluorocarbon. All you have to do is add you beads and a cleavis and blade, and tie a knot at the end. It take longer to unravel them out of the package then to make your rig.

Hope this helps.

Scooter :)

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Dara, that's almost exclusively how I fish for walleye in summer up here.

 

I snell the first hook, but I use a clinch knot for the last hook. I can't tie two snells to the proper length I like, :D

I like to keep the two hooks about 3" apart.

 

I like to tie my worm harnesses at 18" lengths, easier to store in small ziplock bags that I get from work and can be carried in CD cases. And if I require more length behind the bottom bouncer, I have 18" leaders made up with a swivel on one end, and a snap swivel on the other end. Some of the lakes I fish are rocky, its best to keep the worm harness close to the bottom bouncer to avoid snags. Other lakes with sand/mud bottom, its better to have a longer presentation behind the bouncer. Sometimes I have two 18" leaders in behind the bouncer and the harness, which makes for a 48" length behind the bouncer. It all depends on the depth, as we up here catch them in sometimes 6 ft. of water down to 25 ft. of water. Sometimes that's necessary, other times not. In the rocky lakes, I like to use floats on the worm harnesses, keeps them up off bottom. The bouncer may get occasionally snagged, but they usually can be un-snagged by backing up. The floats on the harness will keep them up off bottom from getting snagged up usually, but not always.

As for tying off the lead of the harness, as stated above, a simple fisherman's loop or surgeons knot is all that is needed.

 

BTW, I tie my harnesses with 10 lb. flourocarbon line. As Rob(Kickingfrog, said above) I used to just use plain mono in the 10 lb. range, but I switched to flourocarbon a few years ago. I have noticed a definate durability of the harnesses with regards to pike hitting them. For my main line to the bouncer, I am running 20 lb. Power Pro. Helps to get the bouncer out of serious snags, and if its really, really snagged, wrap the power pro around a stick(I have a section of a hockey stick cut to 18.1" long, used as a fish club, and a measuring stick) and pull really hard. Don't try to use your hands to break it loose. You will cut your fingers and hands if you try that. I was fishing for lake trout 3 yrs. ago in the spring, and got snagged badly with a bouncer. I almost pulled the gunwale of my 12 ft. boat under the water line trying to break it loose before the Power Pro broke!!!!!!

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I keep a few pre-tied in the boat all the time but I also keep a kit such as this aboard. They only take about 2 minutes to make and you don't have the storage problems.

 

DSC01088.jpg

 

As far as the swivel goes, I always include one. It makes the rig a whole lot stronger.

 

THIS is basically how I make mine with a few slight modifications over the years.

 

All components are available at luremaking.com.

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Thats cool guys. Just tied my first one.

Its a tad short because I was just going to practice a snelled hook tie, then the second, and heck, why throw this out, its done now :D

I'll just make a few leaders like tjsa says.

 

Thanks a bunch.

 

One question...why are the red hooks so important?

 

Ummm Scooter, I'm 750km from the nearest BPS...kinda takes the time savings out of that part.

But it gives me an idea to tie a bunch of just hooks and then put on what works at the time.

Edited by Dara
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Hey Dara, You can order them online or from the catalog. I don't know what it is about the red hook, but all my rigs the red is worn right off. The walleye seem to target the red hook.

Scooter

 

 

 

Wheres the fun in ordering them????!!?!?!@?

 

Try chartreuse/pink for a "clown" bead setup, blue beads and silver blades work ok too, never had much luck with Ruby/Red. I usually run 3 or 4 beads then my blade, then one more bead. I also have tried using tiny (number 8 i think?) Eagle claw trebles as my second stinger hook and i just let it trail on my minnow rigs...they've proved deadly ;) .

 

EDIT- For my hooks I run Mustad and Gamakatsu "octopus beak" hooks in 6, 4, 2, and 1/0.

Edited by archie_james_c
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