ColdH20guy Posted June 25, 2009 Report Posted June 25, 2009 I know everyone talks about using fluorocarbon leaders for braided line and not using the 6" steel leaders when jigging for 'eyes; just curious on the thoughts of using/not using the small steel leaders for say a plastic surface frog, crawdad jig, swimbaits etc....I use a braided fireline and was wondering the best option for the end of the line..barrel swivel, leader or nothing? thanks guys
MCTFisher9120 Posted June 25, 2009 Report Posted June 25, 2009 For bass? If so than you are not going to need a leader if you are worried about them cutting through there line. For visibility you may want to tie on a 2-4ft Mono of Fluorocarbon leader...look up the double Uni Knot, great knot for connecting two lines together. Hope this helped. MTBF
singingdog Posted June 25, 2009 Report Posted June 25, 2009 Nothing. Bass are very seldom line-shy, especially for top-water. The only time I use a leader on braid is when I am using walk-the-dog style topwaters, then I use a mono leader. Otherwise, the lure fouls in the line too easily. Most bass lures will have better action if you tie directly to them.
Fishnwire Posted June 25, 2009 Report Posted June 25, 2009 A steel leader would be completely unnecessary. I started using a two foot leader of flouro last year, tied to the main line using a decent quality barrel swivel...cheap ones equal badly twisted line. If they're hitting really well I'll forget about the flouro and sometimes put on a good snap-swivel on the main line and attach my baits with that. It's convenient for quick lure changes, helps improve the action on most crankbaits, and reduces line twist.
JohnF Posted June 25, 2009 Report Posted June 25, 2009 As already stated there's no need for a wire leader for bass, they have no teeth. But on the other hand if, like me, you get into bass pools that you know also hold pike you may want to use one occasionally. Also as stated , the bass don't seem to be line shy. I've caught 'em on red braid tied direct and with wire leaders and swivels clipped to the lure. In fact my PB smb was on a black leader and a white tube in clear fast water, kind of a flukey catch in fact. My only beef with leaders for bass has also already been covered - the little extra weight and stiffness may mess up the action of certain lures like rapala minnows. I say use 'em if you want, but check out how they mess with your different lures in some clear water before you actually fish with 'em. I check all mine out in my pool before they hit the river. Surprising how many track a little funny even when tied correctly and need a little adjustment. On that note I've also noticed that the speed of the retrieve affects how the lure tracks as well, so vary your speeds in the pool. JF
limeyangler Posted June 25, 2009 Report Posted June 25, 2009 Ive always used a flourocarbon leader when fishing topwaters for bass. Either the swivel or uni knot is effective to connect the line to the braid. I was using 17lb vanish, reason....Pike! However the pike seldom got anywhere near the leader line, even when i was using mepps spinners. I am rethinking the flourocarbon leader for topwater lures though, as i've heard it sinks rapidly and would maybe have an effect on the action of the lure, especially the heavier 17lb test....just my thoughts out loud really.
JPD Posted June 25, 2009 Report Posted June 25, 2009 Your thoughts are bang on limeyangler, fluorocarbon does sink and will end up impeding the action of any topwater with the exception of those that you retrieve rapidly. Use a 17 lb mono leader since it's natural properties give it more flotation. Your walk the dog action will thank you for it. For those using fluorocarbon leaders for bottom contact baits or subsurface lures, try a 6-10 foot section. You'll end up with spare to re tie on break offs and lure changes rather than having to re do the joining knot which always involves a knife or scissors... just make sure the knot is nice and snug with almost no tag ends so it can be on the spool and still cast effectively. The longer leader will also act as a shock absorber for those monster hooksets and power dives from the fish. JP
BillM Posted June 25, 2009 Report Posted June 25, 2009 Yup, JP's got it with this one. I hate using any kind of leader with topwater, but if I'm in water with toothy critters a nice 2ft length of 20lb mono does the trick without messing up the lures action.
CLofchik Posted June 25, 2009 Report Posted June 25, 2009 I am rethinking the flourocarbon leader for topwater lures though, as i've heard it sinks rapidly and would maybe have an effect on the action of the lure, especially the heavier 17lb test.... Rub the leader with a candle, now the flouro floats.
bdox Posted June 25, 2009 Report Posted June 25, 2009 (edited) I usually run a rods length of 15-20lb fluorocarbon when fishing bottom contact baits (senko, shakey head, sweet beaver), as well as spinner baits. No swivels or snaps, a direct connection between the braid and fluoro, and fluoro to lure. The more swivels and crap you add to your rig, the more changes for failure. If you rig your baits right, there should be no concern of line twist. I will usually run a uni-uni connection between the fluoro and brair, but I've come to find that it's just a bit too bulky of a knot when passing through line guides. When it's tied correctly I find double or tripple surgeons knot to be the best depending on the diameter difference between the braid and fluoro you're connecting. Edited June 25, 2009 by bdox
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