okumasheffield Posted January 11, 2009 Report Posted January 11, 2009 Having had all rivers frozen for the past two~three weeks, I started looking into which centerpin I should get next. As most of you know that the price can go from $1000 (New AnglingSpeciality) to $150, I wonder how you make the decision as to which one to get PS: I have had my Sheffield for two years now Any suggestions?
Canuck2fan Posted January 12, 2009 Report Posted January 12, 2009 (edited) Have you upgraded the bearings in your Okuma? That is a much cheaper option and some folks say it makes the Sheffield unbeatable for any price.... Edited January 12, 2009 by Canuck2fan
kemper Posted January 12, 2009 Report Posted January 12, 2009 In a perfect world you would fish as many of them as you could before you make your purchase but thats impossible. The new AngSpec is... well probably the most beautiful thing I have ever seen. It brings a tear to my eye when I look in my wallet and notice that im about $978 bucks short. One day... I recently bought a new reel, and having fished a few reels that my friends own I went with the Raven Vectra SST 3 and I think I made the best choice for my money. Mainly I went with it because my main rod is VERY light, so it balances well and the start up on the SST3 is just rediculously fast. My old reel (which I sold and am sad about) was the Raven Matrix...cheap but MAN was it ever a workhorse. I guess just get out there, spin em and hold them and decide which you like the best. Maybe even take your float rod out and see how each balances and feels on it.
okumasheffield Posted January 12, 2009 Author Report Posted January 12, 2009 Are there any reviews or some sort available? Is it true that the more expensive reels spin smoother? Kemper, you were not the only one who cried when seeing the AG reel. Somehow, I feel AG reel spins forever with just a little force ... and same with the Kingpin
KelfuN Posted January 12, 2009 Report Posted January 12, 2009 there is no need to think what reel to pick up. Kingpin. btw, i shotgun the black/red..so you better not get that
kemper Posted January 12, 2009 Report Posted January 12, 2009 Are there any reviews or some sort available? Is it true that the more expensive reels spin smoother? Kemper, you were not the only one who cried when seeing the AG reel. Somehow, I feel AG reel spins forever with just a little force ... and same with the Kingpin No kidding. About the spinning though, my Matrix actually would spin for longer than the Vectra does, but the vectra fishes much better. So it isnt always about how long the reel spins by itself, because it has the line to help it along. Meaning (in my experience) that a reel with a fast startup can most definately outfish (smoother and with less checking) a reel that just spins forever but doesnt have the greatest start up
okumasheffield Posted January 12, 2009 Author Report Posted January 12, 2009 What are the centerpins known for fast startup and the price?
kemper Posted January 12, 2009 Report Posted January 12, 2009 I havent fished enough to be able to answer that question but I can tell you from what I have fished the SST 3 has the fastest start up, I am assuming simply because it is so light. Check out the Hardy Conquest, and the getting into stuff like AngSpec and Kingpins you just know that the quality is top notch
MJL Posted January 12, 2009 Report Posted January 12, 2009 Can't go wrong with an AngSpec if you've got the $ As far as the 20th anniversary model, you should probably put your name on the list soon if you want one for $1200...In a few years when they release the numbers 1-10, they'll be selling for significantly more I had an Islander for the last 6yrs and have no complaints about startup or durability. Easy to do maintenance on should you take a spill into a muddy river - All you need handy is a coin. If anything, I'd prefer if the back wasn't ported so junk wouldn't get in. Also in Ontario, you definitely don't need the line capacity which it has. IMO its the best bang for the buck at around $325. I've been using a 4" offset Angspec for the last 2 seasons. Performs beautifully and does everything I want a reel to do - Actually one of the few reels in 4" that I could find locally. Definitely not a reel you want to do maintenance on at the river. Best word of advice is play around with a few reels on the water to get a good feel on how they perform. The local anglers at Duffins used to call me the reel rapist when I would take their outfits for a spin
okumasheffield Posted January 12, 2009 Author Report Posted January 12, 2009 Damn, only wish if I could have all reels with rods setup already for me to try-out Really dont want to spend the money on the names not on the performance. What do you do if you accidently drop your AS in the mud? It seems to be complicated to be serviced by myself
douG Posted January 12, 2009 Report Posted January 12, 2009 Elitist. Dang. On the other hand, I am thinking about putting $10 a week away for four years to get a Manzer guitar. http://www.manzer.com/guitars/index.php?op...0&Itemid=19 Ya gotta be nuts - at least, if you are, I think you have more fun.
danbo Posted January 12, 2009 Report Posted January 12, 2009 The reel you get depends on the rod you use. The rod you use depends on the river/s you fish. For the Niagara I would use the heavy GLoomis & a meatstick. For the Ganny I would want a lighter reel & mid-flex rod of 13'. For the Catt, I would use a light set-up for the smaller fish there. You can add weights to the rod-butt for balance or use a sliding-ring rod handle to move the reel to the best balance point. How much $$$ you want to blow is your only limit. Tons of used deals abound. A custom rod adds a nice flair.
BillM Posted January 12, 2009 Report Posted January 12, 2009 Is startup up a big concern for people sidecasting anyhow? I could see if you were using the Wallis cast, but for sidecasting it seems like a moot point. I also think the differences between a decent reel and a top end reel (AngSpec) would only be noticed by someone who really puts their equipment through the ringer. Don't get me wrong, I'd love a little bling bling of an AngSpec reel out on the river, but would it actually help me over my budget Streamside? Maybe Mike can chime in and give some insight.
okumasheffield Posted January 12, 2009 Author Report Posted January 12, 2009 Trust me, I am not up to bling bling stuff at all (even if I were having the money to do so) Doesnt it make you envy when seeing other people's reel spins nicely in a super slow current and yours kinda limping its way through? Mike, please give us your insights!
BillM Posted January 12, 2009 Report Posted January 12, 2009 (edited) What kind of reel are you using that's limping along? My Streamside has no issues drifting in frog water.. Super smooth and trouble free. Have you taken it apart and cleaned/oiled the bearings? I do it after everyday on the river... A little maintenance goes a long way. Edited January 12, 2009 by BillM
jonnybass Posted January 12, 2009 Report Posted January 12, 2009 What kind of reel are you using that's limping along? My Streamside has no issues drifting in frog water.. Super smooth and trouble free. Have you taken it apart and cleaned/oiled the bearings? I do it after everyday on the river... A little maintenance goes a long way. This seems like the most sensible solution. Why pay $1000 for a bloody fishing reel when you can do as stated above with your old reel?
DRIFTER_016 Posted January 12, 2009 Report Posted January 12, 2009 Most of the issues people have with reels limping along in frog water have to do with reels that need adjustment or tweaking. I spend a lot of time tweaking my reels when I get them just for that purpose. The main culprit is too much side pressure on the bearings. i.e. either the centerpin retaining screw is too tight or if the reel has a spacer between the two bearings it is too long. I bought a Rave Vectra as a backup to my backup to my back up and when it arrived I could tell right away that this was the problem (spacer too long) using some 200 grit sandpaper and patience I removed between .0001 and .0002 of an inch from the end and it is a completely different reel.
Headhunter Posted January 12, 2009 Report Posted January 12, 2009 Nice guitar Doug.... I plan on living another 100 years to buy this one, based on current ability to save for it: http://www.luxuo.com/2008/07/most-expensive-bass-guitar.html HH
okumasheffield Posted January 12, 2009 Author Report Posted January 12, 2009 Yes, I clean and oil my reel after every outing. How do I know if the spacer is too long or the screw is too tight?
solopaddler Posted January 12, 2009 Report Posted January 12, 2009 (edited) A pricey reel won't help you catch anymore fish. To improve the performance of your current reel de-grease the bearings by soaking them in kerosene then once re-installed put a drop of sewing machine oil on them (it's got to be sewing machine oil). You can also go whole hog and order a set of ceramic bearings for your reel, they're very smooth. As far as which reel to buy, an Islander is the obvious choice and would be a big upgrade over what you're already running. They're not overly expensive and are very reliable. Beyond that for a bit more money I'd get one of the new 5" Kingpins, they're a great reel. If you want one of them shoot me a pm as I've got a cheaper source... Sometimes if the center screw is too tight it slows down the reel. To remedy this remove the screw and screw it back in with a small chunk of 4lb test wrapped around it. The line will allow the screw to stay tight and in place without cranking down on it. Whatever tag end is left sticking out trim it off... Edited January 12, 2009 by solopaddler
River Rat Posted January 13, 2009 Report Posted January 13, 2009 for start up: if you wallis cast, start up is a moot point considering you pull start the spool anyway. Fast water fishing will start up even a sluggish reel when you drop the float so it doesn't matter there either. Slow water fishing is where a light reel with quick start up really helps alot. 5 inch reels are better for big water cause they bring in more line. If you are a side caster the Islander is not ideal due to the large square foot with square edges that can grab the line as it flys out the side. I have fished most of he reels mentioned so far and the Mykiss is my go to reel. A 5 inch reel that is super light with lightening startup. I modified my #12 ported with some nice rose wood handles not for looks, but because the plastic ones that came with it were kinda small and short. I understand the reason for the small tapered handle design, but it's a joy to fish now without th sore fingers from winding in those long drifts. Some guys like heavy reels for big water and long drifts cause they can spin the spool on retrieve to take up more line (inertia). I tend to wind in on the long drifts. The start and stop of batting or pull, spin, pull can really mess up your line on the spool. for my money, the Mykiss is the best over all performer I have seen out there....of course there ar better but if I could only own one reel under $700.....that's my baby. River Rat
DRIFTER_016 Posted January 13, 2009 Report Posted January 13, 2009 How do I know if the spacer is too long or the screw is too tight? Back off the centerpin screw 1/4 turn and if the reel spins better you know there is side pressure on the bearings causing a loss of performance. Not all reels use a spacer, most have shoulders milled into the spools hub. These reels need to use the line trick with the CP screw trick. I place a piece of line into the female threaded part of the CP with the tag end sticking out and reinstall the screw stopping a little short of tight. I test this by checking the spools side play. Hole the back plate and with your other hand push and pull gently on the spool, you should feel the slightest amount of play. That's what I find as being perfect. If the reel has a spacer between the bearings you can lightly sand one end of the spacer to achive the same thing, only you will be able to fully tighten the CP screw.
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