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Spinning vs. Bait Casting???


sneak_e_pete

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I know I don't post much, but had surgery last week and am hung up for 6 weeks. I know I'll get the answers I'm looking for on this board, so here goes.

 

I have always used spinning reels with no problem, but everyone keeps telling me that I should buy a baitcaster. Can someone explain the pros of owning a baitcaster? Thanks.

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Thanks for showing me where that post was...lots of info, although I am not sure I know what I want. I fish bass and that is about it. I tend to throw senkos, tubes, jigs, topwater and jerk baits. If I am reading the post right, it sounds to me like my spinning reels would be fine. I've never had a problem getting fish out of the slop.

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Ok, here's my experience with Bait casters. I got four of them. I regularly use only one and its my ABU C3. I only use it for trolling as it holds alot of line and it is sturdy. I use large plugs which it casts good. However my other 3 reels are spinning at any given time. I also use them for trolling or casting or bait fishing. I will only cast the Bait caster only when I stop and figure there are big fish as I will use the larger lures. What I dont like about a bait caster is there are few advantages over Spinning

 

You want to fish slop, use a stiff Spinning Rod and pump and reel

No disadvantage from a baitcaster for fishing tubes, top water etc

I like tha drag better on a spinning

 

The disadvantage of the Bait caster is it is not as comfortable

As many times and careful, and adjusted, I will still have to stop after a cast and pull line out because of an over-spin. At least once every ten casts. That's me

Those are my opinions, also I'm very money conscience and I find they are too expensive for any advantage over spinning.

 

BUT THATS MY PERSONAL OPINION

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pete

 

For what you fish for and where, I would say that you will be OK in using your spinning rod/reel only. A baitcaster is good if you want to use heavy lures and as a result, heavier lines.

 

I use my baitcaster only when I am going after pike and I want to use a floating Rebel, 7 inch, 1 oz lure.

 

holdfast

 

One in 10 casts is too many “bird-nests” - I would quit using my baitcaster. Below is what I do to get rid of the problem – 100%.

 

Carp-starter

 

HOW TO AVOID BIRD-NESTS - 100%

 

abuProMax3600.jpg

 

This is my reel – ABU Garcia Pro Max 3600.

 

To cast a lure, you must first press knob A.

 

On the reel there are 2 drag systems – B and C (star drag). The two drags are independent of each other and they have different functions.

 

Drag C is the same as you would find on a spinning reel on top of the spool. If you tighten C, you will make it more difficult for the fish to pull out more line if he decides to run. If this drag is too loose, the fish will easily run and you will not be able to stop the fish and tire him.

 

Drag B controls the revolution of the spool on a cast. If it is too tight, you will not be able to cast the lure because the spool will not revolve. If it is too loose you will be able to cast the lure but you may get “bird’s nest” - if you do not stop the spool with your thumb. Bird’s nest will happen when the spool keeps on revolving when the lure hits the water or when the lure is coming off the spool while the spool is revolving too fast. Basically, in both cases, the spool is revolving too fast.

 

To prevent “birds nests” you will have to tighten/loosen drag B and at the same time be able to cast your lure.

 

You must adjust drag B.

 

Set up your rod, reel and lure so that the whole thing is ready to cast the lure – hold the rod in front of you.

 

Press A and check what happens to your lure. Does it go down? If it goes down, tighten drag B all the way – this will become the starting point for you. If the lure did not go down, continue with the instructions below.

 

Loosen drag B and loosen it to the point that the lure “just” goes down. Do not loosen B more than needed – just enough for the lure go down.

 

Make sure that A has been pressed with your thumb. This will be the starting point to fine-tuning the drag - by casting a lure.

 

The above setting of B may be just right for the lure you are using (B must be changed and adjusted for every lure). But you may wish to tighten B a touch or loosen B a touch. You will find this out when you cast the lure.

 

Cast first with the B drag as is. If you do not like it, you will have to cast with the B drag loosened or tightened and see what you like best.

 

Make sure that the spool does not keep on revolving when the lure hits the water. When the spool keeps on revolving, you must tighten drag B or with your thumb stop the spool.

 

With my settings, once that lure hits the water, the spool on the reel STOPS revolving. It stops DEAD. I might be able to get a few yards more in my cast if I were to loosen B just a bit or more than just a bit. But then of course my spool would continue to revolve when my lure hits the water. To stop the spool, I would have to apply my thumb to the spool to stop it. The extra yards gained, if any, is not worth the hassle.

 

It is easier to cast a heavier lure than a lighter lure. With my Berkley Series One rod and the ABU Garcia Pro Max 3600 reel, ¾ to 1 oz is the perfect weight.

 

Practice with a floating lure.

 

After I bought my rod/reel, I went over to the park on Lake Ontario to practice using a tandem Musky Killer, one ounce. On my first cast I got bird’s nest. While I tried to untangle the line, the lure sank to the bottom. When I untangled the line so that I could reel in the line, I found that the lure was stuff in the rocks. The result was that I lost a $10.00 (plus taxes of course) lure on my very first cast. So, use a floating lure. The heavier – around ¾ oz, the better.

 

I use 12 or 14 lbs Berkley, Trilene and I am happy.

 

Good luck.guys.

 

carp-starter

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I think half the issues people have with baitcast setups is that they don't take the time to make some simple adjustments based upon what lures they use. You can't go from tossing a 1/4oz tube, to a 1oz spinnerbait and expect the reel to perform the same. Anytime I change lures, I always let the reel free spool to the point at which the lure weight pulls the line out itself, but doesn't backlash...

 

Sure after a while I back it completely off so I can bomb casts, but that just comes from practice.. Once you are good with a baitcaster you'll never go back to a spinning setup in the same situation....

 

I also find my baitcaster a lot easier to cast 12hrs a day then a spinning setup.

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to the original poster

 

once you master the baitcaster, you will not go back. particularly when throwing your topwaters and jerkbaits (and spinnerbaits if you use them). some guys get good enough with them that they can toss weightlass plastics as well.. this'll take time so keep your spinning outfits for those lures.

 

carp-starters tips re: brakes are good. eventually though, you will train your thumb and will never have to fart around with the brake. just leave it in the loosest position.

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to the original poster

 

once you master the baitcaster, you will not go back. particularly when throwing your topwaters and jerkbaits (and spinnerbaits if you use them). some guys get good enough with them that they can toss weightlass plastics as well.. this'll take time so keep your spinning outfits for those lures.

 

carp-starters tips re: brakes are good. eventually though, you will train your thumb and will never have to fart around with the brake. just leave it in the loosest position.

 

Never go back is correct, I refuse to pick up a spinning combo. But I do use a Daiwa Steez and Shimano Calais. :thumbsup_anim:

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