Boat Repair

[nautifish]

Thery're is a boat here in dover up for sale i am interested in.

 

This is the Add.

 

17ft sylvan profisherman thats needs repair to the hull ,,needs to have new rivets in some places.i dont have the time or the place to do it,and i,m to honest to sell it with out saying so.this boat is set up for fishing big water.comes with,1990 60hp johnson(runs well and strong)2 big jon electric down riggers with dual rod holders on each,2 eagle heavy duty downrigging rods and reels,hand held garman gps,lowrence 300 gps fishfinder/plotter/sonar,big bow livewell,3 swivel seats,new battery,new livewell pump,am/fm/cd player,all safety equipment,fresh painted EZload trailer with spare.this boat still has a lot of good years left in it,but just needs some repair.i,m asking $6,000 or best offer,,dont be afraid to make a offer,,thanks ,,,,REMEMBER THE BEST SALE IS A HONEST SALEs is the Add.

 

Now when he mentions Rivets just how big a job and expence are we looking at here?

 

 

 

Thanx so much.

 

Nauti.

[cranks bait]

That's a good package there Naughti. It would all depend on what hull work needs to be done.

 

I would also be concerned about that motor. First it's not quite enough power for that boat from what I recall. I have been banging my head over boats for the last few months. I had a '93 50 hsp Evinrude on my boat that is smaller and it was alright. It was loud, smokey and used a lot of gas. This is the reason there is a new E-tec on my boat now. Didn't know what I wanted, but I had to get rid of that motor.

[canadianboy]

well it might depend on the extent it might not need new rivets you might just be able to seal them. my uncles boat had leaky rivets so he tried specific marine rivet selent but it didnt work so then he used truck bed liner touch up and no leaks so far. but i saw that ad before and said the same thing as crank baits that it was underpowered but maybe if you send him an email asking him what the boats top speed is you might have a better idea if it is overpowered or not.

[nautifish]

Blimey Cranks i never even thought about the size of the motor. Hopeing to go take a look at it tonight sometime.

 

My main concern though is the Repair that will need to be done to the Hull.

[Guest lundboy]

Blimey Cranks i never even thought about the size of the motor. Hopeing to go take a look at it tonight sometime.

 

My main concern though is the Repair that will need to be done to the Hull.

 

Contact J&J Marine in Hagersville, Jim does good work on aluminum hulls/rivets etc.

 

http://www.jandjmarine.com/

 

905-768-9188

[nautifish]

Thanx Lundboy.

 

I just took a drive over they're No one home. Nice looking boat but heck when it comes to boats i really don't know what to look for......lol

[cranks bait]

Just checked it out. Ironically the same boat comes up for sale in Ottawa. But it does say Dover for street address. I compared it to what is available from Sylvan now. I'm guessing it should have a 135 to 150 on that boat. It is way underpowered. It'll push it and that is about it.

 

If it's a minor hull repair that should be easy, especially if you have the pros do it.

[Beans]

Where's our resident rivet expert Wayne ???

[nautifish]

I got ur Pm Cranks Thanx.

 

A motor i can change that i really am not to worried about and of course priceing would also come into play.

 

As i said my main concern is the cost to the repair that needs to be done to the Hull. When i took a drive over this morning i could see some kind of white paste or something like that had been covered over some of the rivets. Not sure what that was.....lol....Going to take another look later today and speak to the guy.

[Fisherman]

"White paste" smeared over the rivets proably equals silicone sealer which is a waste of time on aluminum. Get the rivets redone properly, then the motor issue, I really don't think it's anywhere near adequate to get you going when you have to leave due to bad weather.

[Guest lundboy]

I got ur Pm Cranks Thanx.

 

A motor i can change that i really am not to worried about and of course priceing would also come into play.

 

As i said my main concern is the cost to the repair that needs to be done to the Hull. When i took a drive over this morning i could see some kind of white paste or something like that had been covered over some of the rivets. Not sure what that was.....lol....Going to take another look later today and speak to the guy.

 

Most expensive part of rivet repair is disassembly of the boat floors etc. to get at the rivets. This is very time consuming and if the boat is filled with flotation foam it makes it that much harder.

[cranks bait]

Did you get a chance to go look at it? Is it a big leak or just a wee one? Did you sleep last night? Did you talk your kids and Sinn's ears off? Are you giddy as a school girl?

[Greencoachdog]

I don't think the motor is that big of an issue. I have a 17' Tracker Deep V with a 50 hp Mercury on it, it does 33mph which is fine with me. I'm no speed demon and my gasoline bill is very low to operate my boat.

 

Like stated before, have the rivets replaced... trying to seal them is a bunch of malarkey!

[Billy Bob]

I have a 23 year old Grumman side console boat that has seen a LOT of big water between Lake Erie and Ontario so I have a few loose rivets. I would have to completely disassemble the inside of the boat to get to them so I wire brushed, sanded and cleaned the area with alcohol and then smeared silicone chalking over them and have had VERY good success with this. Don't discount silicone chalking so fast. Also if the rivets loosen up once they will loosen up again.

 

Bob

Edited August 1, 2008 by Billy Bob

[Greencoachdog]

I have a 23 year old Grumman side console boat that has seen a LOT of big water between Lake Erie and Ontario so I have a few loose rivets. I would have to completely disassemble the inside of the boat to get to them so I wire brushed, sanded and cleaned the area with alcohol and then smeared silicone chalking over them and have had VERY good success with this. Don't discount silicone chalking so fast. Also if the rivets loosen up once they will loosen up again.

 

Bob

 

I'm glad you've had success with that Billy Bob, but there's this thing with rivets being loose that kinda bothers me... did you know they actually hold the boat together?

 

.. and a couple here and there will loosen others... and then more...

[Guest lundboy]

I'm glad you've had success with that Billy Bob, but there's this thing with rivets being loose that kinda bothers me... did you know they actually hold the boat together?

 

.. and a couple here and there will loosen others... and then more...

 

And once they get loose, the moving sheet metal starts to cut the heads off the rivets. Then suddenly there will be no rivet just holes if you are lucky plugged with the silicon. Plus Jim at J&J Marine has warned that putting silicon or the hotmelt boat repair makes it very hard to get a rivet repair to seal after the fact. He recommends using marine epoxy instead in a pinch until you get the rivet repaired properly.

[Zamboni]

On the aluminum boat sites a general consensus is "silicone is for bathtubs not for boats". 3M has a product, 5200 that is best for general below water line sealing of all boats/thru hull fittings-good until you get new rivets installed.

 

From what I've read Gluvit is an aluminum boats best friend, spread that around repair right before rivetting.

 

Question for those experienced-should help nautifish if she buys that boat. Why do I always read about dissasembling the boats interior to get at inside of rivets? Aren't there solid rivets that can be applied 'blind'....i was looking at some and pop rivet type sealing rivets....can't a few rivets simply be drilled out and new rivets installed from outside on boats hull?

Or does that take an expensive hydraulic rivet gun to work from just one side?

 

I have also read of loose rivets being tig welded over-may be an inexpensive option.

 

Before purchasing this or any boat with a possible long term leak....check that the flotation foam is not water logged. Boat may be carrying 3-500 lbs of water in the foam that can not be dried out.

[bassassin]

I had the same type of boat, we traded it in for our 06 Fisher. It too had some rivet issues (loose). we filled the bottom of the boat with water in the garage and did a perimeter check to see were the water was coming out from. It turned out that the water was coming out from right under the motor. We removed the motor, then one person put a heavy peice of iron on the inside of the boat while i took a sledge hammer to the outside, a couple of shots and the leak was no more! Ours was a Profisherman 17' it had a 80hp mercury. That was plenty of power, you shouldnt need to upgrade the motor on that boat, it will do 30-35mph no prob and thats plenty.

 

Hope this helped you,

 

Jason

[yellowboat]

As Zamboni stated you can fix the boat from the outside using "Blind Rivets" (similar to Pop rivets but the stem gets locked in the rivet with a mechanical lock, these are structural fasterers) and can be installed with a regular Pop rivet gun(may cause damage to the gun with prolong use but is ok for a few) I would also suggest installing them with a high quality non silicone sealent. They run about a $1 a peice. If you decide to buy the boat and want to go this route PM me and I can give you a contact for these fasteners.

[Greencoachdog]

I mainly agree with some of the replies here but common sense tells me:

 

1. Blind rivets are ok for repairing a limited number of rivets... but they're not as strong as the original rivets.

 

2. Resetting a rivet will work for a while... but that rivet has already been weakened and should really be replaced.

 

3. Checking the floatation foam for waterlogging is a good idea but will require disassembly, or partial disassembly of the boats interior. If the boat hasn't been "slipped" (docked on the water) for a season while it was leaking... the foam should be ok.

[yellowboat]

Greencoachdog I will have to disagree with you for the strength of a Blind Rivet, the rivets I suggested are stronger than solid rivet as they have a steal shank inside that is mechanically locked that provides a shear strength of 1030 lbs and a tensile strenght of 445 lbs.

[Zamboni]

3. Checking the floatation foam for waterlogging is a good idea but will require disassembly, or partial disassembly of the boats interior. If the boat hasn't been "slipped" (docked on the water) for a season while it was leaking... the foam should be ok.

 

Bad cases will show on way boat sits in water, and how it handles. Remove the outboard, or account for all weight and use scales at truck shop if your suspicous. Too many boats sit on trailer without angle to stern or plugs out and foam becomes saturated.

 

I have a long term project, a Boston Whaler 19' that had over 600 lbs of water in the foam....bought as salvage hull. Some people buy boats in worse condition thinking they're usable.

 

My experience with boat sellers, disclosure and claims of how honest the vendor is make me suspicious....start with foam, and do a comp and leak down test on that motor. Hope I don't come off as too negative/untrusting but I've been amazed at how people will misrepresnt items for sale.

[Greencoachdog]

Greencoachdog I will have to disagree with you for the strength of a Blind Rivet, the rivets I suggested are stronger than solid rivet as they have a steal shank inside that is mechanically locked that provides a shear strength of 1030 lbs and a tensile strenght of 445 lbs.

 

I understand your thinking YB... and I would guess you're talking about a 316 grade stainless steel shank (marine grade), but it is a "mechanical fastener" by which I mean the fastener has a moving part in itself and could be the source for to points of entry for water instead of one. I know there are marine grade blind rivets and they're probably very good products and would work well in a limited number!

 

... but I personally would rather have a solid rivet... but hey!... that's just me!!!

 

 

 

Zamboni... you make a very good point!

 

... and partial disassembly isn't that bad if you're mechanically inclined, the removal of the rear deck is pretty simple and is where I would start checking for waterlogging... but I like your idea of weighing as well!

Edited August 1, 2008 by Greencoachdog

[yellowboat]

Actually I'm not talking 316 SS, the rivet I'm suggesting is a Monel shank (Aircraft Grade). And for it leaking that is why I had suggested wet installing with a non silicone sealent.

 

If you intrested

http://www.cherryaerospace.com/files/pdf/catalog/CA-1011.pdf

[nautifish]

Thanx so much for all the Info Guy's greatly appreciated.

 

Took a look at the boat last night. The hull looks to need to much work. Sinns reckons the boat has hit something at one time but cant be sure. This guy brought it from someone else had not had it long when he got it in the water found water coming in. Says he does not have the time to repair it which is why he is selling. I just got a bad gut feeling and i allways allways go with my gut feeling. So we passed on this one.

 

But thanx so much again Guys. Your Great.

 

Nauti.