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Posted

my wife's uncle does that on his tinner and it works great, I helped him cut some decking for the back of the boat to keep the gas tank, deepcycle to save some space for loading up the boat with the riggers ect for fishin on Erie, and we used marine plastic plywood and cut a strip for the transducer and just clamp it with a C clamp just like you mentioned, just gotta take it off if you plan on running nuts out from point A to B

Posted

They work ok, but it will be difficult to position your transducer exactly as it should be set. You'll need to check it often to make sure it's not shooting out towards Aunt Nancy's house in Timmins somewhere. ;)

Posted

Forrest, I made one of those mounting bars with a strip of 1x3 pressure treated wood I had left sitting around and a big C-clamp. Worked like a charm and cost $0.

Posted

Sinker's idea is one that I'll likely do as well. Fishindevil also gave me that tip when I got my boat. If you think you'll change your fishfinder a few times over the years, maybe add a speed wheel, then he told me this is great. You dont have to keep drilling holes into your transom...just screw it into that plate.

Posted (edited)

If you have a transom mount electric trolling motor you can mount your transducer to the bottom of it, like this.

8977100_3215.JPG

Then whenever you rent a boat or buy a new one your fishfinder is already to go. The mount is made by Eagle and can be bought or ordered wherever they sell Eagle products.

Edited by jediangler
Posted

The holes are not that big a deal and the performance you get from the transducer will be better than a portable mount. With the transducer mounted directly to the hull you have a better chance of getting high speed readings and it will not vibrate loose and fall behind the boat ripping the wires out or worse getting into the prop. A transducers signal must stay within a few degrees of plum and square to the boat or the readings are useless. In my aluminum boats I drill the pilot holes thru the transom and then use a marine silicone filling them in and then a self tapping screw with a washer on the head. On fiberglass you should use a bolt that has rubber on both sides to keep water from getting to the hole you drilled and soaking the glass inside. Future repairs to the holes if needed can be as simple as using marine tex and a little paint or just install the aluminum screw back in place and grind it flush.

 

Art

Posted

Thanks guys,

 

Looks like I am going to go:

 

-I have heard of that plastic plate thing and people seem to like it.

or

-$0 by using scrap...wahooo!

 

for input on this is good too!

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