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Big Big Dew Worms


Rizzo

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So we moved to a new house and I seem to have an infestation of big honkin dew worms all over my driveway in the morning after a rain. Each summer i buy worms to feed the bass off my dock...this is gonna save me a lot of worm money if I can figure out how to keep them for a month or 3. I remember my "opa" used to keep them in a styrofoam container in his fridge but I'm not sure what kind of soil to use (or is it shredded newspaper that's used?), how many worms can you jam in there or do they need their space etc. Why is styrofoam used? Do they need to be "watered" every few weeks? Fed anything? Any tips would be appreciated.

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If you want you can buy a large worm box, from most tackle stores.

Or.. the damp newspaper works too.

They just love that instant porridge.

 

<h3 align="left">Cages</h3> Use wooden boxes, washtubs, steel drums cut lengthwise or other tight containers. Wooden containers 60 x 36 x 18 inches or metal tubs 2 feet in diameter and 12 inches deep are used as rearing boxes. Wooden containers should be well tarred on the outside and coated with hot paraffin wax inside. Metal containers should be coated inside with hot tar or two coats of good house paint.

 

<h3 align="left">Cage Preparation</h3> Good loam or other porous soils containing organic matter work well. Organic matter (rotted or dead vegetation) may be added and mixed one part to three to four parts of soil if needed. Avoid using sandy or heavy clay soils. Fill the container to a depth of 8 to 10 inches with the soil used. Moisten soil throughout, but do not soak. Add food (1 pound of 15 percent protein mash such as hog or broiler mash mixed with 1/2 pound of lard or cheap vegetable shortening) within the top 3 inches of soil. Cornmeal can be substituted for the mash in the mixture if desired. This amount of food provides one feeding ration for the rearing containers described.

 

<h3 align="left">Biology</h3> Commercial hybrid red worms are best for rearing. A culture can be started by adding 100 worms and covering with a damp sack to prevent evaporation. Earthworms must mate to reproduce, even though one earthworm contains both male and female reproductive organs. Eggs are formed in a slime tube that slips over the worm's head and forms a cocoon or capsule that incubates them. Eggs develop into tiny worms in the cocoon and crawl out through one end when ready to emerge. Cocoons vary in size and shape and are about 1/25 to 1/3 inch long. Some fast-maturing worms mature three to four months after hatching and will start their breeding cycle. Eggs are laid on top of the ground at one-month intervals, with each egg capsule containing 5 to 15 baby worms. If starting with two breeder beds, the crop will be ready for harvesting in about five months and continuing thereafter with proper care. Nightcrawlers are difficult to impossible to raise in homemade containers. Most resort to picking these worms from lawns, gardens and orchards for storing and future use. Worms live 10 to 15 years.

 

<h3 align="left">Feeding</h3> Worms must be fed periodically to maintain production. Feed is added at the rate of one pound for each cubic foot of rearing space per month. Feeding once or twice each week is sufficient as uneaten food will contaminate the bed. Wetting the soil whenever food is added usually provides sufficient moisture.

 

<h3 align="left">Other Factors</h3> The rearing container must be in a cool, protected place with the temperature about 60°F. A good place for the worms is a house basement. Maintain cultures at 60 to 65°F during the coldest weather by covering with a cardboard box. Be sure to have a thermometer. Heat may be provided by stringing a light bulb inside the cover, carefully avoiding any fire hazard. One finds young worms five to six weeks after "planting."

 

Provide good drainage with small holes covered with fine wire screen. Keep soil moist but not wet by spraying with water.

 

Worms can be harvested by emptying the box and sorting out those of suitable size. Some remove worms from the soil by transferring to a 10-quart bucket and allowing to stand for 30 minutes. Put top soil back in the tub and most worms will be found in the bucket bottom. The loam can be saved and transferred to a fresh box as egg capsules are present to start a new colony. Unused worms can be used as breeders.

 

Before sale or use, worms should be placed in sphagnum moss to "scour" for three to four days. Worms will become almost transparent but tough and lively. Haul worms to the lake in a moist bait box with damp sphagnum moss or in cans, cups, etc., that sit in the cooler with soft drinks. Keep worms cool and out of the hot sun.

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I keep mine in the Styrofoam worm containers that I reuse. I usually put shredded newspapers and spray them with dechlorinated water to keep them moist every so often. Apparently they need moisture because they breath through their skin. I don't feed mine because I use them pretty quick after picking (within a few weeks). A few commercial worm pickers I talked to fill their worm containers with a mixture of dirt and peat moss. They said the worms feed on peat moss.

 

I have to keep mine in the cold room in the basement now...There was an incident a while back with the fridge and escapees :whistling:

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Roger, drunk and happy is how to keep them :w00t:

 

Seriously, tho, I have one of those containers from LeBaron and it works great, get some worm food, bedding and keep them cold. Just make sure you lock the box or, speaking from experience, the coons will open it in the middle of the night while camping and have a field day :wallbash::o

 

Joey

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I keep mine in compost. Just a mix of yard stuff really....leaves and crap I rake up, then mix with a bit of topsoil. Then they go in a rubbermaid bin, in the cold cellar where they thrive, reproduce, and live the happy life. That's all over once pickeral season opens this weekend.... :) I have worms in there from last spring still...

 

I just picked about 10 dozen in 30 minutes. My lawn is alive with them right now.

 

Sinker

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I go through 4500+ crawlers a summer and have tried almost every solution mentioned. In the past few years the best I have found is the FRABILL FAT & SASSY WORM BEDDING in the large cribs or the 1050 Habitat V Worm Storage. The bedding is clean and will not stain your boat or hands when fishing, I found dirt was a disaster and moss caused mold problems. I have over 1000 crawlers in my worm fridge right now and they are very happy in that sassy bedding as it includes the food and you do not have to add water. I mix up each crib once a week and they will last the full summer with no mold. Mold and warmth is you big killer...so keep an eye on your stash or you will loose them all.

 

Good luck...

 

-sheldon

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For bulk quantities, I have one of those 6x3 Rubbermaid totes in the basement, that is about 8 inches deep for my worms. I just use shredded newspaper for bedding and feed them veggie leftovers, eggshells, etc. They breed pretty quick.

 

If you're just talking about storing some, like 4-5 dozen. Use a coffee can, fill it 3/4 full of slightly wet shredded newspaper and put the worms inside. Leave it in your fridge to keep them lively. They will stay alive for months in there.

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Would not recommend leaving them in the trunk for a week (or longer) In July. Smell is somewhat...........unpleasant.

 

"somewhat...........unpleasant" is an understatement. I thought a racoon died in the garage.

 

 

Ok,, and not to hijack the thread,,, but other than trout and bass, what other fish can i use the worms i picked last night for?

 

Panfish goes crazy for worms. The problem with sunfish is that they gobble so fast the hook ends up deep.

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Ok,, and not to hijack the thread,,, but other than trout and bass, what other fish can i use the worms i picked last night for?

 

Walleye, carp, suckers, crappie, bluegill, perch, catfish.. just about anything that swims will hit a worm presented properly.

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