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Need some help? Muskie.


Tybo

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Their is so many different makes of these lures on the market.

That I need some advise on what to look for in a long lasting, durable one.

How to determine flaws In the paint, the Dye they use and the knots and thread.

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Seriously, there are hundreds of bucktails on the market and maybe thousands of spinnerbaits. I stick to Mepps Musky Killers because of their durability and you can get them at any CTC store for $10. I've recently began using Slopmaster spinnerbaits and found they are great for musky & walleye. They aren't very durable and I would suggest replacing the swivel at the blade with a ball bearing swivel.

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I have seen 4 muskie over 42" caught on cheap spinner baits that were 4/10$ at tromblys tackle box in orillia ... Mind you after those fights they were pretty much toast. But they did their job in landing numerous pike bass and smaller muskie before getting torn to crap on the big guys ....

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Forget what lasts and durability. Ask yourself the question, what is a Trophy worth. If I hook a 50+ on a $25 lure, I will be okay with that lure becoming a part of the past. Just my opinion.

 

I dont think any lure can tough it out through and through. Sooner rather then later you will have to replace most. Most major Musky manufactures tackle is pretty up to par tho.

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I have found the first thing to go on these baits is the wire, so make sure there made with heavy duty wire. I have also noticed on lures in general, the shinyer the paint the easyer it chips. But spray paint can fix that.

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The ones I make would take a long time, their tanks, lot's of guys make good ones. The only thing that could fail over time is the hair will eventually fade and rip off, the hardware should not fail in my lifetime, other than possibly a broken clevis or bent parts you can just bend back. If you wanted you can double up the split rings, but the big tripples are extremely hard to bend. Most guys don't die their own they buy bulk material already colored but the die will eventualy fade no matter and paint will eventually chip but the fish don't care about that anyway. You could always powder paint them yourself in future years as well as add more hair/material with little effort.

 

Triple split rings, biggest available

Biggest/thickest clevis

Thickest wire .63 is plenty - .71 is super heavy I think a clothes hanger is .71 and your can find it but I use .63

Magnum blades(thicker than regular blades)

Numerous knots tieing small pieces at a time on a metal coil, covered in epoxy

Solid metal beads

x4 thick Mustad trebles, don't bend

= super tanker that should never fail on any musky and last a very long time,you can troll the heavy duty ones better as well.

 

I don't have anymore to sell or plan on making anymore this year, but check out muskyfirst.com and go to the lure building section, lot's of amazing builders in there always on the top of the game for same price as a major retailer for better quality, lot's of the same guys are on ebay with the listed parts they use too. Too many to list and lot's of great retailers but custom = better in my opinion and you can get them all over.

Edited by GbayGiant
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Have to agree with the thick wire theory. Custom baits are the way to go, generic lurres just aren't looked at as closely during manufacturing. One type of in-line I started using last year was built around a cable as opposed to a bent wire shaft. The major benefit with the cable is that you don't have to re-tune it after a fish. Just keep going, the lure operates without a hitch.

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Go visit the Reaper....

 

http://www.grimreaperlures.com

 

I'm gonna agree with the sheriff on this one Paul, you'll go a long ways to find a better built bait that stands up to alot of abuse without coming apart.

 

I've got a boat load of them and have never had a problem with them at all.

 

You'll pay $20 - $25 for the bigger models at JB's or Tightlines but they're definetely worth it.

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Their is so many different makes of these lures on the market.

That I need some advise on what to look for in a long lasting, durable one.

How to determine flaws In the paint, the Dye they use and the knots and thread.

 

 

Paul, you making these yourself or buying already made?

Theres no real way to tell what what size thread or type of knot used without destroying the bait or having seen one ripped apart from some serious teeth.

Flaws in the paint?........

I honestly believe eventualy they all fade/chip and even bend if your refferring to the blades..(Especially coloured ones....(This is why I prefer metal finishes or one colour in brass)

 

Wire Shafts...I use 0.062

Magnum Blades......Bulk/Mustad Trebs/Trailers.

# diff. type of SplitRings for diff applications...(x2, x3 and Premium Stealth Black) all stainless.

Magnum and Easy Spin Clevises..(again, diff applications.)

Size "D" thread..(4wraps/1 overhand knot/drop of cement/REPEAT/REPEAT,RE...............................)

Epoxy finish

I just recieved a new shippment from Stamina Inc of rare size 12 magnum blades in wild colours,

(willow.colorado.indiana)....as well their #10 Mustad trebs.

Bulk strung Maraboo........rarely use bucktail(Deer) anymore.

Additions...chinese hackle neck/tinsle/crimped nylon

 

I think for bait flaws.......look at the wire bends(Should be 2wraps min.) and the splitring settings....I like them interchangeable.

 

Grim Reaper was always my fav. prior.

 

Good Luck Bud!

Edited by brickNblock
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Peter, anyone attempting to make their own baits could learn alot from you bud !!

 

Your baits are some of the best homebrews I've ever seen....and yes, they do catch muskies and stand up VERY well :thumbsup_anim:

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:blush:

Cheque is in the mail Lew.......(j/k)..Thanks Bud,..that was real nice of you!

Only make about a dozen a year now and they're spoken for...

Brian and Marc....hope you boys read this post...(still awaiting more 'BOO')

Take care out there...

bNb

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