brkygetr Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 hey all wondering if anyone out there has a solution for me. I've got a 95' Chev 4x4 (4.3 V6) and for the life of me can not get my 4 wheel to engage. I'm not much of a mechanic but do know a little....so... I can tell you its not the actuator (new) or the fuse and I just got back from the wreckers with a new-to-me transfercase switch (working) and installed it and still no juice. The transfercase engages and the front driveshaft is fine. I really do not want to take this thing to anyone but am just about out of options... Any ideas????? Thanks Brkygetr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headhunter Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 I have a 96 Jimmy and have recently (within the last year) had similar problems. Stupid question, but did you try engaging the 4 x 4 with the vehicle in Park? That was the trick for mine, after the mechanic cleaned out all the guck in the front end... I don't put it into 4X4 enough and the gunk plugs up the various vacuum lines etc... putting the truck into park, then engaging the 4x4 has worked well for us this winter season. I hope someone else chimes in for ya as well! HH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernie Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 (edited) First of all when you say "no juice" are you saying the actuator is not moving? There are other components involved here too. If the transfer case is engaging (putting power to front driveshaft) then the problem becomes in the front differential actuator mechanism. If you could clarify things a little more I can help. By the way, is this a full size, S-10 or S-10 Blazer? Edited February 11, 2008 by Bernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowPoke Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 It could be the actuator if it's the thermal style. It's way cold out there and may not be heating up enough to engage. There are several systems on 4x4 Chev's, need more info... Model? Electronic 4WD? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brkygetr Posted February 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 Bernie...by no juice I just mean the front axle is not turning..it is a 1500 series half ton 5 speed...the front actuator is new and I hooked it up to a battery and it works... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brkygetr Posted February 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 Bernie...by no juice I just mean the front axle is not turning..it is a 1500 series half ton 5 speed manual...the front actuator is new and I hooked it up to a battery and it works... Slowpoke...it is the thermal/electronic assisted (I believe) system...The shifter is on the floor, not push button. Hope this clarifys things guys...thanks for your help, keep it coming Brkygetr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Chong Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 Sorry, Brkygetr I know that this won't help you in Fort Frances but Headhunter, if you're looking for someone who really knows GM/Chevy trucks contact Charles Ho. He has a little shop called C.H. Motor in the Midland & Finch area. He looks after my Avalanche, knows his stuff and is very reasonable. A honest fair mechanic go figure! His number is 416-291-3095 tell him that I sent you! Cheers, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irishfield Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 Have you tried neutral and foot on the brake? Maybe it thinks it's in low range. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tybo Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 Sounds like a amp proplem. Or there is something wrong in side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernie Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 OK-first we need to find out if the transfer case is applying power to the front driveshaft. If there is then you need to find out if your actuator has power and ground to heat it. Jack up front and rear axles,support it properly. Engage the 4x4 put it in drive and look to see if the front driveshaft is rotating. If it is the transfer case is working. Caution here, sometimes cold fluid will rotate the shaft too. You should be able to hear the transfer case motor shift in and out.(lots of problems with those things) Go that far and let me know what you find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brkygetr Posted February 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 Irishfeild...I've tried everyway possible...if i try anything else it is gonna involve me standing the roof, doing a jig, shifting with a rope through the window, and using my pet monkey to clutch for me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brkygetr Posted February 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 Bernie...I have got that far...except all I did was park on a slight incline, shift into 4 high and get the back tires spinning on ice (we have lots of that here!!!)..pop the clutch and let it spin at idle...got out of the truck and had a look...the front drive shaft was spinning fine...and you can hear the difference between 4 high and low when it is engaged (not sure if that is important) your next idea about power to the actuator is where I am stuck...checked the entire wiring harness from the actuator to the transfer case and could not find any frays, breaks, ect. This is why I changed the switch on the transfer case just in case that was it....unfortunaetly it was not. Brkygetr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernie Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 (edited) Ok -good. Now you need to check for power and ground on the actuator harness. The light blue wire should have power and black is ground. Use a test light across the terminals. It should light it up in 4x4 mode. Check fuses #14 and 25 in your fuse panel. Both are tied in to your 4x4 system. By the way there is an update kit for these models. Kind of pricey but they work a lot better with instant engagement. Edited February 11, 2008 by Bernie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brkygetr Posted February 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 ok goin over to the shop to check for power...fuse #14????Hmmmm....checked 25 but not 14...back in an half/hour Brkygetr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowPoke Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 By the way there is an update kit for these models. Kind of pricey but they work a lot better with instant engagement. Better than the update is a manual engage. It gives you the option of 2-Hi, 2-Lo, 4-Hi, 4-Lo. 2-Lo has handled every ramp I encountered last year and the steering doesn't bind! http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oktravis Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 the question i have is when you put the truck in 4x4 is the front drive shaft spinning in to the front axle?this is a way to isolate if your problem is in the front axle or in your transfercase.if the drive shaft spins the fault is in the front axle.i have seen many of thoes 4x4 systems where the actuator will move but the fork inside the axle wont move.if that is the case some dissasemly of your axle is involved to free up the fork. hope this helps travis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaunB Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 you can always try to reverse it a bit a a slow speed while trying to engage the 4x4 sometimes this helps, or reverse back then slowly move forward to engage Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shane Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 Irishfeild...I've tried everyway possible...if i try anything else it is gonna involve me standing the roof, doing a jig, shifting with a rope through the window, and using my pet monkey to clutch for me... That used to work for my Dodge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brkygetr Posted February 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 Bernie.... ok...so could not get the light tester to the terminals as they are recessed in the 2 prong plug...but I did a continuity test with an ohm meter and do not seem to have power going into the actuator.... (I did this with the key turned on and in 4 high so power should have been getting to the connection) ....tested at the far end of the harness going into the transfer switch and have power there????? So does this mean there is a fault in the harness somewhere or should I be looking for a ground off somewhere???? Getting closer...I think Brkygetr By the way Travis the driveshaft is spinning and I really hope this does not involve taking the front diff apart...I have been avoiding dismantling untill all other avenues are covered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernie Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 A continuity test will not indicate voltage. There are several paths where it can find its way back to ground indicating continuity. You need to find out if you have power/ground. Use a cotter pin or some way to hook up. Do you have a multi meter? Set it to volts with proper dc volts scale and test. Careful with this though. You can get a voltage reading with a poor connection too, you also need enough amperage to run the actuator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brkygetr Posted February 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 ok back to the shop...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tybo Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 To do a amp test you must make your multi meter a part of the circuit. Put the the red lead into the 10 amp hole,turn the multi meter to 10 amp. remove the fuse and stick the leads into the slots of the fuse holder(one in each). if nothing happens turn the leads around. This must be done when the circuit is turned on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterwolf Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 had an '88 s10 , the 4x4 wouldn't engage . took it to aamco they spent an hour tinkering , cleaning valves and switches. worked fine for a couple of days. then took it to a newfie mechanic . 2 minutes later i was on my way to the wreckers for a vaccuum bottle . mine had a hair-line crack , wasn't getting enough pressure to throw it in gear . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernie Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 Different system than the one we are trying to solve here Waterwolf. But it is one of the first things we check here on the S10's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterwolf Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 sorry guys , i'm no mechanic. good luck with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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