LucG

I recently bought this tackle bag from Bass Pro. http://reviews.basspro.com/2010/103993/reviews.htm Initially I though it was amazing, tons of storage, 8 370 utility boxes etc. but then the more I looked at it, the bigger it seemed. It measures 23" x 15" x 15" Is this too big to bring on the boat as a non-boater? Is there place to store something this big on bass boats?

I don't have any personal experience with piranhas, but my friend had several. They are a very interesting fish, especially at feeding time. But as Spinnerdoc mentioned, their lifespan is by any means not short. If you find yourself getting bored with fish that quick, maybe the best route for you would be some goldfish or guppies....lol

I second that!...lol...blur out the faces tho.

Were there any good fishing pics on it? lol

Looks chilly. Looking forward to watching the show!

Here is an article that describes how I clean my skulls. Its a much quicker way than most, and give an excellent end product. Good Luck Luc ----------- Skulls fascinate many people. A clean, intact skull is most appealing and can sometimes be worth more than prime fur from the same animal. Like fur handling, skull preparation is an acquired skill. Good results are achievable by simple means. Although messy and painstaking, it is gratifying work to transform a raw head into an item of value and lasting beauty. A relatively quick method is described below. It can produce clean, white, intact skulls suitable for public display. It is a method that I’ve developed after working for and picking the brains of several taxidermists, as well as processing hundreds of my own furbearer skulls. It works well for me, a trapper who wants to process numerous skulls in a short period of time, just once a year without harsh chemicals. Selecting Any skull can be cleaned, but those from young animals will have to be glued back together if the bone sutures have not fused. Growing bones are also more porous and will not shine as bright or feel as smooth as those from mature animals. Mature animals usually have discolored, broken, worn, or missing teeth; however, deformities can certainly add character. Unless it’s for research or for practice, I only process mature specimens. Tagging Skulls are more valuable when they are tagged with the harvest date and location, license or permit number, sex, weight and species. Immediately after skinning, I identify each skull with a number written in permanent black ink on a durable and waterproof tag. Each tag is attached with a zip-tie inserted into the eye socket and out the cheek muscle so that it remains attached to the zygomatic arch during processing. The tag numbers and corresponding data are recorded in a book. After processing, new tags with neatly recorded data are attached in the same way. Bagging Skulls are easier to clean if they are kept fresh and moist. I bag each head in clear durable plastic immediately after tagging. The heads remain frozen in containers until cleaning time in the spring. Individual bagging cuts down on the mess of bleeding and freezing to other skulls or storage containers. It also eliminates odors and insects when the weather warms up. Dried skulls should be soaked in warm soapy water before cleaning. Pressure washing For skulls the size of a fox or larger, I use a pressure washer with a single stream nozzle to remove as much soft tissue as possible. Fragile skulls (small, young or decomposed) can be bagged in a non-metallic screen and sprayed with a wider stream to keep from damaging and losing parts. I use a 1900 psi electric model which is perfect for lynx and just adequate for wolf. Larger models must be used cautiously on furbearers and are better suited for big game. If you don’t need to run a generator to power them, electric models run quieter, cleaner, and cheaper than fuel powered models. After checking for naturally loose teeth, I clamp the skull to a wooden pallet and blast away from all angles. This is a very messy procedure and should be done away from people and pets. I wear a full rain suit, rubber gloves, ear protection, and a Halloween mask for a face-shield. The brains can be flushed out without backlash by adjusting the nozzle to a wider spray. Nothing ruins my day faster than a shot of brain-juice in the face. I also blast away the turbinates which are the fine sponge-like bones in the nasal passage. After pressure washing, each jaw is refitted and kept shut by 20 gauge brass wire inserted through the skull’s nose and around the mandible’s chin. Simmering Boiling is the quickest method to soften tissue for cleaning, but it affects the integrity of the bones and teeth and it shrinks the skull. Simmering is better. Although simmering could be done before the skulls are pressure-washed, the larger muscles would take longer to soften. If skulls are left to simmer too long, the teeth become loose and then they may get lost in the spray. For simmering, my 5 gallon pot of skulls is sprinkled with two cups of sodium carbonate (sold as laundry “washing soda”), then filled with fresh water to about an inch from the top. I cover the pot and heat it on a propane burner stand outdoors. (See photo). When the water starts to boil, the skulls are done and the heat is turned off. Just as in boiling traps and snares, the oily froth is floated out of the pot by adding water before removing the skulls. I leave them to soak in the hot water while I work on one at a time. The remaining tissue is removed with the aid of dental picks, needle-nose pliers, a small dull knife and other scrapers. Compressed air is great for blasting difficult areas such as the blood vessel passages in the lower jaw. Degreasing After cleaning, some skulls may not need degreasing, but for most, natural oils in the bone will tarnish them various shades of yellow. Some species, such as lynx, almost always require it, and others, such as wolverine, almost never. Immersing the skulls in naphtha camp fuel for 1-3 weeks will remove the oils. The container must be sealed to prevent evaporation and placed away from sources of ignition. Grease will collect as a brown slime on the bottom of the container. I remove the skulls without disturbing the grease and pour the clear fuel into a clean container to degrease the next batch. The skulls are wiped clean and air dried in a well-ventilated area for a few hours. Note: Skulls in camp fuel will remain intact for a year, however, if the skulls are left longer than 3 weeks, they may take on a sticky brown coating. A light spray of oven cleaner will immediately allow this to be toweled and rinsed off. Although such skulls may still appear stained, make no bones about it as they will whiten. Whitening Here is a cheap, safe, quick and easy way to whiten skulls. First I soak them in a 3% hydrogen peroxide solution overnight, in a dark container, at room temperature. The peroxide works best in warm conditions, but it deteriorates in sunlight. The peroxide solution maintains its effectiveness if it is kept in a dark container and it can be used for multiple batches. The next morning, I put the wet skulls into clear bags onto a white surface in direct sunlight for a day. (See photo). The sun hyper-activates the peroxide in the bone, while the bags seal in the heat and moisture. Next, the skulls are soaked in water overnight to neutralize the peroxide and are dried slowly to prevent cracking. If the skulls have yellow stains, the degreasing and whitening processes can be repeated. I have never tried chlorine bleach because it is well known to disintegrate bone, even in low concentrations. Finishing Unlike other cleaning methods, with this process there is usually no need to glue teeth and bones because the natural cartilage and tissues holding them have not deteriorated. When required, white glue will dry clear and remain intact unless soaked in water. Young canine teeth are especially prone to splitting and can be painted with a 1:1 mixture of white glue and water to prevent this. The jaws can be glued shut, but I prefer to use 20 gauge brass wire. Skulls that will be handled or displayed without a box to cover them can be protected by spraying them with a clear varnish. A flat or matte finish looks more natural than a glossy one. I prefer uncoated skulls, but I have seen some gold and silver painted ones that I liked. White paint never looks natural and is a strong indication of a poor job below the surface. Skulls should be bone-dry before applying any coating or glue. Displaying Displays vary according to purpose and imagination, but I’ll offer a few guidelines. White skulls look best against a dark background. I have carrying cases that act as shadow-box displays when marketing my skulls. I also have wooden boxes with glass fronts and removable backs. For museum quality displays, low-reflective glass allows a clearer view. Skull collecting continues to be popular and a neat tag with accurate data is always an attractive feature. For larger species, a European plaque mount or simply a skull hanging by the zygomatic arches like a picture frame will highlight a trophy. Selling Some jurisdictions require a special permit to sell manufactured products of wildlife. Export and CITES permits require documentation. Meeting the requirements avoids any bones of contention with wildlife authorities and clients. Consult your local wildlife authorities for details so they have no bones to pick with your business. Enjoying Like fur handling, preparing skulls can be fun and easy once you know how. It’s also messy and smelly. If you’re a good fur handler, you’ll probably pay the attention necessary to produce bona fide pieces of art. May your skulls bring added value from your harvest and keep you from being bone-idle after the season. Taken from the Fur Harvester Publication Written by Ryan Sealy, Yukon

LOL...I love reading translations like that...

I know you asked about reels, but I recently saw this ad on Kijiji. Thought maybe someone here might be interested. New Never Used Penn Slammer Conventional Rod SL3060C70 7 Foot 30-60 Lbs 7 Guides 1 Piece Rod http://northbay.kijiji.ca/c-buy-and-sell-sports-bikes-Penn-Slammer-Musky-Deep-Sea-Fishing-Rod-SL3060C70-NEW-W0QQAdIdZ195796010

Thanks guys, great info. I'm trying not to get too tied around the gear aspect and just do what I know how to do, catch fish. I'm looking forward to the upcoming season and plan on learning alot.

I'm looking for a website/article that deals with selecting the right rod/reel for different types of fishing techniques. There have been similar questions asked here, but am unable to put all the peices together. I like using almost every technique, but I have been doing it all on just the one rod. Since I plan on fishing bass tournements this year as a none boater, I have started to pickup some gear. So my question is, come the night before the tournement, what technique should I assign to what rod. I like to fish with cranks/x-raps/jerk baits, topwater/scum frogs, texas/carolina/wacky style rigs, spinnerbaits, drop shot, etc. Obveously it can all be done on one rod, cause I have been doing it that my whole life, but I want to know when it is to my advantage to use the baitacst reel, or when its better to use a stiffer rod. I currently have: - Shimano Citica Baitcast with a Bionic Blade Rod 6'6" MH Fast - Older model Quantum EX 501 Baitcast with a Berkley Roughneck 6' Med Casting Rod - Shimano CX 2500RB with a Shimano 6'6" Med Fast - Shimano Sienna 2500 no rod yet selected As for line, I'll mostly be using PowerPro I plan on buying at least one more setup as well. Theres got to be a good article out there that lays it all out for newbs like me. Or it might be a good topic for an upcoming OFC Emag issue. Thanks guys!

Congrats guys! I was really hoping to see my name...lol Entering my name was the first thing I did everyday...oh well, there's allways next month!

So what kind of value would this have? Somebody offered me $20 for it. I was going to hand it over right away, considering I bought the whole tackle box for $20, but I didnt want to give away something that could have brought more. So should I jump on the $20...lol

I hear ya, I fell in love with my tiny torpedoes last year.

Yeah, I knew that, i guess I kinda worded my sentence wrong. I meant that I knew that the original box for the lure was an important factor in the value. Thanks for the site.

That is crazy!...I hope we are all wrong...lol Some of the places we launched were shallow enough.

Yeah, I know the box is a big thing with old lures. If its from the 40's, 50's or even the 60's, it is in amazing shape for that old of a lure.

Hey, I recently bought a used tackle box filled with goodies. One of them was this lure. At first glance, I threw it aside and went for the brand new cranks and rapala minnows. But after I had gone through everything, I came back to it and wondered if it had any value. I initially though it was just a hobbyist that made it because it didn't have any manufacturers markings at all. It hasn't even been used, well I should say it hasn't caught any toothy fish. There is only a few cracks in the paint. Does anyone here know anything about antique lures? I tried to get some pics that showed the hardware used to make it.

Yeah, I was catching blue walleye through the ice out of Kipewa Lake a few weeks ago. They were'nt slimy though.

I have three different models, the bumble bee, the grasshopper, and I dont remember the last one. But I have yet to catch a fish on them. Like most of yous said, its a very light lure, and without a light tackle setup, theres no point in even tying it on.

Last time I saw this one it was caught in Minnesota I never noticed that the first time lol

That is funny. They DIDNT blur out my plate....do I have grounds for a lawsuit????

Could be a fisher or a marten. They hop as a squirrel would, sometimes leaving marks similar to that pic. But with the melt, it is certainly anyones guess.

Beavers, allthough very interesting to observe, are often a big nuissance in many townships. Flooding roads, taking out power lines etc. If it were not for trappers and animal damage control professionals, they would become overpopulated in no time.

Nice fish. That walleye looks very pale... Can't wait until open water season starts here.

Can you explain?