boatman

These motors are out of my area of expertise, but just juding by the photos I'd guess the first is an Elto Ace and the second an Elto 3-5hp. If you posted on AOMCI and they said the first was a British Seagull then I'd take their word over mine. If it is, the serial and model number should be at the base of the motor. Both should have serial and model numbers. The second motor should have it on or around its transom bracket. You need some better photos of both motors. Front, sides, top, rear and lower unit. Take some close ups of the powerheads. You can email me the photos and I can try to help you out. If you can narrow down the models I can get you whatever info you need. I forgot to add a line about value. Unfortunately, they don't have any significant monetary value. Price is completely subjective. What I see comparable motors sell for on the collector market and in the Buy/Sell maybe less than what one individual will pay. Someone is always willing to pay more. You just have to find that one person. The first motor may bring as much as $60. You'd be hard pressed to get more than $40 for the second one in its present state. Running and painted maybe $100 if you're lucky. I should also add that those are top prices. There is a market for Elto Ace's and British Seagulls, however, even restored these motors are only worth $200-300. More if its a rare model.

That's a very simple single cylinder engine. Most of them receive too little use to ever get worn out. I agree with Cliff that you probably have a gummed carb. The coils on those old OMC's are also notoriously bad, though. In the future, always mix in some fuel stabiliser with your gas and drain the carb or run it dry (some may argue not to run it dry) before prolonged storage. Cliff, if the coil is cracked, discoloured or sweaty looking it is bad even if it sparks or runs.

A helicoil is a totally proper and acceptable fix for your problem. Personally, I'd look for a replacement head. You will need a new head gasket regardless. Even though you can install a helicoil without removing the head I don't suggest it. You risk getting metal shavings in the cylinder. Remove the head and do it right. If you get a used head (like I would) you will need to plane it. You can do this by placing a piece of 400grit wet/dry sandpaper on a plate of glass or the like and rubbing the head in a figure 8 pattern until the high spots are gone. Also, that model may require a new water jacket cover gasket if you replace the head.

Thanks, Fisherman. I just called and they quoted $172.80/per machine. That's pretty cheap. That's probably as cheap as I can get living in the city.

I need to insure a couple snowmobiles in Ancaster (Hamilton). Anyone here have a policy in Hamilton? I won't hear back from my broker for two weeks and I'm curious what rates are like and if I can get a better deal. 1973 Ski Doo Olympic 440cc 1993 Polaris Indy Trail Deluxe 440cc

Yes the motor is a 1969. Ratio is 50:1 with TC-W3 outboard oil and 87 octane gas.

Bull. That's all I have to say about that. Impeller is an easy fix. Not hard at all. Get a factory repair manual. The entire water pump kit (BRP 0389133) is about $80. The impeller alone (BRP 777213) is about $30 from your local dealer. The entire job should take you less than an hour. Impellers are a consumable wear part. They should be changed every 2-5 years. Also, don't reuse the impeller even if it looks good. It concerns me that the motor didn't start after the battery was recharged. That length of time should have been more than enough for it to cool down and restart. Before dumping any money in the motor. Drop the lower unit and inspect the pump. If the impeller is broken in pieces make sure you get them all out otherwise it may block the water passages in the block. You should also check compression. If compression is ok then procede with the repairs.

The plug thing is not true. I have boats from the 1950's and 60's that have plugs. I'd bet most outboards don't get winterised. I wouldn't worry about it. Only problem I see is the Mariner badge, but that's just me. $1500 is probably reasonable.

About 2 hours at WOT with a standard group 24 marine deep cycle battery or 3 hours with a group 27.

Marine Goop from CTC. Look in the Boating section. The stuff is amazing.

I use 12' Zodiacs at work and own a few aluminum boats. I can tell you that a hard bottom Zodiac is much more stable than a small aluminum boat. They are very safe. More so than a tin boat. However, even the 12' Zodiac seems a little too small for fishing anymore than one person. They also plow water and are harder to plane. I'd rather fish from an aluminum boat, but a Zodiac is a good boat. Now, an inflatable rubber tub like CTC sells is suited for only a very few uses and I wouldn't put "primary fishing vessel" at the top of that list.

There should be a capacity plate somewhere near the stern. You are legally required to have one so you should get one. What hp was on it prior to your getting it? Obviously 10 hp or greater. I'd guess upto 25 hp. Do you have the license for it? Otherwise, you have to get that too. The cops have checked me twice in the last two years. You can find all the info you need about licensing at the Service Canada website.

That's a quality boat under there. Very heavy and sturdy. Thornes are a nice vessel. Undo what the previous owner did and you will have a great utility to work with. What's the max hp rating?

I've got a Clymer or Seloc manual for 1968-78 Evinrude 1.5 - 35 hp on pdf. You are welcome to it, but its 60MB so you'll have to pick it up or send me your address.

I meant to add that the speed sensor for any fishfinder isn't very good. You'd be better off buying a GPS for that. Even an old used one $50 would be better than a speed sensor.

I agree that 120-120 is probably the compression, which would suggest its in like new condition inside. Replace the impeller. Water flow shouldn't be intermitent. However, its standard practice to change the impeller in a new to you motor. They are a consumeable part and are only meant to last 1-5 years even though many will tell you they've never change one and never had any problems. Its very easy to do yourself and the cost is about $25 for the part. That motor will push a standard 12' tin boat around 32 kmh or 20 mph. Enjoy your new motor. It as a steal. Also, check the lower unit oil for water and refill with new oil. Make sure to use new washers on the drain/vent screws when you do it.

I may have Clymer or Seloc, but it will be too big to email. I'll check when I'm home tonight. If you must buy one, get an OMC factory service manual. The ones from Ken Cook are copies of the original OMC manuals, but they are very pricey. I buy most of my manuals on eBay and they are much cheaper. You will find the Seloc/Clymer manuals next to useless since they cover so many models and hp's, but they are better than nothing and will show you the basics. As said, a hard copy is much better.

I think the best deal right now is the Eagle 320 Fishmark at LaBarons. They have it for around $170. You won't find that price anywhere else.

Are those US gallons (3.78L) or Imperial (4.4L)? 24 (US) mpg = 28 (CDN) mpg 18 (US) mpg = 21 (CDN) mpg Ford doesn't offer the extended cab Ranger with the 2.4L 4 cyl.

For a period starting in the 1980's and lasting into the early 90's OMC recommended 100:1. However, they found that there was a significantly higher rate of powerhead failure and put it back down to 50:1. The problem apparently isn't with running these motors at 100:1, but rather that there isn't enough oil left over to properly lubricate the internals for long term storage. According to a former OMC service tech and fellow outboard collector, OMC issued a statement to its dealers back in the 1960's stating that several of their motors could run at 100:1. With todays oil injected motors, you'd be surprised to learn that at times the motor is getting a ratio closer to 150:1.

In 1965 people were still using 30W automotive oil mixed 50:1. Using today's specifically designed outboard oil is already a vast improvement over that. In fact, 50:1 already has a safety factor built in. The engineers knew we'd mess up the fuel mix sometimes so they recommend a richer mix than is actually required. If you are going to run a mix like 30:1 I'd suggest using a synthetic outboard oil. It'll smoke much less and is biodegradeable.

I realise this post is long dead, but since it never got complete resolution I thought I'd give you the definative answer. 1964 and newer Johnson/Evinrudes take 50:1 TCW-3 outboard oil to 87 octane gas. Prior to 1964 use 24:1. High rates like 24:1 - 40:1 will do nothing, but foul plugs and stick rings in your motor. If you choose to run a richer mix, also consider changing the gap of your plugs from .030" to .040" and perform a decarb once a year. The 9.5 hp began life in 1964 and was always designed to run 50:1. The 28 hp entered the market in 1962, which would suggest that it should be run at 24:1, however, it can safely be run at 50:1, too.

What was your hole shot like? Over-reving sounds like a pitch issue. However, 10 p sounds about right. Do you remember your old pitch and diameter? Did you replace with a new prop or a used one?

I have a 2004 extended cab, edge, 3.0L, auto, 2x4 with 95,000km. Great little truck. Pulls fine and is rated up to 2500lbs. No problems/issues with mine, yet. I would buy another in a heartbeat. Handles nicely off road on rough terrain. Mine isn't 4x4 so I can't comment on that. The 3.0L is known to be a great motor. Its often called the "cockroach" because you can't kill it. If you actually see more 3.0L's in the shop its because there are so many more of them than 4.0L's. Fuel economy isn't great. I get consistently 18 (US) mpg or 13 L/100km. Worst was 15 mpg or 16 L/100km when towing and best was highway 24 mpg or 10 L/100km. Hopefully, the Ranger's replacement in 2010 will come with the (European) 3.0L diesel. There are only two things about them I don't like. The seat doesn't have a height adjustment, which is slightly annoying if you are +6'. And there isn't much space behind the front seats.

I don't think you will find the fin Lew mentioned on a mid 1980's Johnson 20 hp. You need to tighten the steering. Should be a bolt or screw in the round steering tube of the midsection. Unfortunately, I'm away from home so I don't have access to my mid 1980's Johnson's or service manuals tom tell you exactly where it is. If the engine runs ok once its started then you have either border line compression or a fuel issue. 10 pulls suggests a fuel issue. You probably need to rebuild the carb. When was it last running well?