boatman

I don't have much experience with the BPS stuff you are asking about, but I have used a few Browning reels. There are ok. I find them too heavy and clunky. I like Quantum's higher level reels. Abu Garcia makes a decent reel in the $50-80 range, but I forget what its called (even though I have one on my ultra light). Personally, I'd go to your local fishing shop and see what they have in stock. I've never been too impressed with BPS rod/reel combos. For the money you are willing to spend you could get a better combo than what you are looking at. IMO

I fished the harbour on Thursday. We caught one salmon in 60 FOW when we first arrived at about 6:00 pm. Then not even a bite for the next two hours. Talked to a couple other anglers at the launch who said they had a flurry of action at the same time. Didn't see any salmon in the rivers.

I just came back from Grey-Bruce. No fish spotted in any of the streams or rivers I travelled including the Beaver, Bighead, Sauble, Saugeen, or Sydenham. Waterlevels are still near historic lows in all Southern Ontario streams. Water temps mostly around 16 C.

Condition is everything. The 9.9 Johnson/Evinrude is about the most sought after motor there is. You will have no trouble selling it in the $400-500 price range assuming its in reasonable shape. Top dollar would be $600, but it would have to be in superior condition. $200 would be the bottom. I'd probably list it at $450, but take $400. I should also add that this is a terrible time to sell an outboard. Lots of buyers looking for an end of season deal, but also lots a motors going cheap. If you list it and can't get your price then hold it until spring. Just as many buyers and motors then, but fewer sellers willing to drop their prices - IMO

Fogging the engine is to spray a water repellent oil into the cylinders and carburetor to coat the engines internals so they won't rust during extended storage. This is not usually required for indoor storage unless the environment is very damp. Fogging and changing the lower unit oil is basically all that is required for winterising and it is usually only required for engines that will be stored outdoors or where the motor will still be subject to the elements (damp or non-heated storage). You shouldn't need to fog your engine if you store it in your basement unless its very damp.

I've never owned or serviced a 4 stroke outboard, but I have serviced lots of outboards and small 4 stroke engines and I don't see what more a dealer would do for you that you haven't already done yourself except change the plugs, fog the engine and give you a nice bill. I don't think you need any of those.

I've heard of people doing that, but it doesn't make much sense. Diesel doesn't burn with spark. It requires heat and compression. You might as well dump 2 stroke oil in there. Fuel conditioners usually contain highly flamable chemicals like napthalene that clean and burn out not moderately heavy oils like diesel that will leave deposits since it can't burn out.

I have the 76C and it works great. The colour screen is nice. The only thing I don't like is that everything is a little small. Smaller even than my old Garmin eMap, which makes it a little difficult to use in my truck. I know this isn't a big issue, but since I use mine in the truck, on foot and on the water its a concern for me. If the 76 only comes with 8MB of memory you will probably fill that up fast. The base maps are ok, but I found them lacking for my needs and upgraded the mapset. I'd like to get the charts too, but I've been to cheap to buy them. I have a dash mount for mine, but I have the base mounted to a metal cell phone mount instead of using the sticky pad it comes with. those sticky pads don't work in a vehicle and make a big mess that is nearly impossible to clean off your dash.

Van and Truck World (Hamilton) did my hitch. They were good and cheaper than most. CTC and UHAUL are way overpriced.

Outboards are cheaper to service and take up less room.

I couldn't disagree more. IMHO

LOL - Good for him. Private industry can't expropriate. Only the Crown can expropriate and only for the betterment of the people (infrastructure, safety, etc.).

"Your land can only be expropriated for roads within a certain distance of the edge of your property and depending on how your land is zoned that is different." That's not exactly true. The crown can expropriate any and all lands. The common road allowance is 66'. Anything in that zone belongs to the Crown. Anything outside of it can be expropriated. What a dirty B. I've seen expropriation first hand and it isn't pretty. However, expropriation is always a last resort. In my experience, the Crown's representatives have always tried to reach a fair agreement with the property holder. Of course, that was in Manitoba where the price of real estate is less.

That motor is heavy, but its still comparable to todays motors of that size. Its about 120lbs, which is about the same as my 1988 30 hp. It outputs about 25 hp at the prop and is rated to push up to 43 kmh/26 mph. Try starting it in a barrel. Its only been two years so it might start right up. Replace the impeller - its easy to do. Most places won't touch outboards over 20 years old. If you can't get it to start then take it in for service if you can find a place. Drop me a line if you have any questions. I collect and service my own 1950's OMC's. You can see a few of them in my profile pricture.

I'm sure they do. However, second hand knowledge and informal evidence based on experience is still technically hearsay and anecdotal - true as it be may be. There is actually a formula to determine the size of the deep cycle battery required to use as both a starting and trolling motor battery. The short version is to determine the size battery you need and oversize it 20%. The problem isn't really re-starting, but rather the initial starting of the motor. Personally, I won't risk running my trolling motor off my starting battery, but I know lots of people do. Like someone said earlier...batteries are comsumable. The minor expense of a second battery outweights the savings/risk of only using one.

"Anecdotal evidence is an informal account of evidence in the form of an anecdote or hearsay." - Wikipedia

Despite Misfish's anecdotal evidence to the contrary, you should not use a true deep cycle battery for cranking. They are not designed to discharge high amperage. You risk damaging the battery. Your motor and starting system will be fine.

TC-W3 is the lastest standard for 2 stroke outboard motor oil. Most outboard motor oil is TC-W3 rated, but some low quality cheap oil isn't. Always make sure the oil you use in any 2 stroke outboard meets or exceeds this rating. I only recently started using Amsoil. I'm going to try regular synthetic next. It should be about the same. You can get Amsoil at CTC. To convert your motor to tiller steer you will (probably) need to replace the entire steering bracket. Its not hard, but it will require you to completely dismantle the motor. You will have to remove the powerhead and lower unit from the leg (midsection). The manual throttle control on the motor is only there for manual starting and emergencies. It would be difficult (at best) to rig a tiller with throttle control without the OEM parts. With that said, it may be possible to just remove the cap that holds the throttle lever on the steering bracket and bolt on the tiller handle from an OMC of that size and vintage. However, you would either need to have the parts manuals or the actual parts in front of you to know for sure. I think it may be possible, but I wouldn't bet the farm on it. Did it come with the optional generator? I think that option came out around 1962.

Yeah, that's what I figured. I wasn't sure if it could be done. I have two of these motors and both have the exact same problem. I found a replacement bracket for $20 so I bought it, but I might try the Red Hot 2000 or J/B weld slow cure you mentioned on the other. I don't think regular JB weld will work in this application. Thanks a lot, everyone.

I might take you up on that Big Cliff. I go up to Lindsay every month or two to see a friend and go fishing.

That's a heck of an offer. Good for you. That's a lot of extra work you are taking on! I do a lot of tinkering with small engines and outboards as well. If you don't mind I may drop you a PM for some advice if I ever come across a problem I can't figure out. Good luck with the new career/hobby.

Can't believe I missed this one. 1962 Johnson 28 hp electric start, long shaft as already stated. It takes a 24:1 fuel mix using regular 87 octane gas and TC-W3 outboard motor oil. Some people do run them at 50:1, but they are taking their chances. OMC didn't approve the use of 50:1 until 1964 when they switched to roller bearings in their motors. 50:1 is ok at troll, but the bearings require more lube at WOT. At 24:1 it will be smokey until its warmed up. I use synthetic oil (Amsoil HPI) and it almost eliminates the smoke, oily sheen and is biodegradable. What kind of handle are you looking for? If you are looking for a tiller and that motor didn't come with one then you will have to get a new steering bracket as well as a tiller handle. Lots of parts around for those motors. You just have to find them. I hear there is an "outboard motor graveyard" north of Barrie, but I have yet to meet anyone that knows where it is. If you find out let me know.

Oh that's good to hear, Glen! I collect these old motors so upgrading would defeat the purpose. I don't NEED this motor since I have another dozen or two, but I sure love to fix and run them. My primary fishing boat has a 1988 Johnson 30 hp. That's as new as I plan to get. Thanks

I have an outboard with a broken tiller handle bracket. You can see it in the following pictures. The broken piece is cast aluminium and about 3/16 thick. Can it be welded back together or do I have to go shopping for a steering bracket to fit a 1954 Evinrude? http://www.myfishingpictures.com/showphoto.php?photo=130979 http://www.myfishingpictures.com/showphoto.php?photo=130980

You have a bad connection/wire. Since the motor works fine when connected directly to the battery you know the problem is in the wiring. Check for corrosion or broken wires. Also check your ground. The problem might appear to be with the positive wire, but it could in actuality be the ground. I'd start by inspecting your connections carefully. Try flexing the wires near the connections while you have the motor in the on position. If it turns on and off then you likely have a broken wire or bad terminal connection. If that doesn't solve your problem then try cleaning, sanding and re-coating all the contacts in the loop you are connecting. Make sure to check the connection and contacts at the fuse/breaker junction.