boatman

Great motors. Don't be scared of it. To cut down on smoke and the oil slick you can use synthetic oil. I use it in all my classic outboards that take 24:1 pre-mix. However, your motor is 50:1 so I'd just use normal oil. 1) Coils are $20-30/each. You may not need them. That vintage isn't known for bad coils. 2) Ignition tune-up kit (points and condensers) about $25. Probably don't need them either. 3) Impeller $25-30. I don't know if a replacement wear plate is available so hope it doesn't need to be replaced. 4) Carb rebuild kit about $30 includes new float. 5) Lower unit oil $10 6) Lower unit vent screw seals $2/pair 7) New spark plugs $10/pair Parts to do a complete tune-up including everything I listed is about $150 + tax. Nothing you can't do yourself. Sitting for 5 years isn't that bad, especially if it was maintained like they said it was. I wouldn't be surprised if all you need to do is change the lower unit oil and vent screw seals; lube the cylinders/crankshaft with penetrating oil; change plugs and fire it up. That would be about $20 for those keeping track. If you do a decarb, use the old plugs during the procedure. I forgot to mention that you should do the impeller, regardless of when it was last changed.

Thanks, Roy. Very helpful.

How about slow trolling with the high thrust models? How slow can they go? My 36lbs on the slowest setting is slow enough for most situations, but I wonder if it might be too fast for dead trolling a worm on bottom. Its certainly strong enough for windy days.

I've used both a 30 and a 36 lbs motor on my heavy 14' tin boat (needs minimum 20 hp just to plane two +200lbs guys). I found the 30lbs a little underpowered, whereas the 36 lbs is just right. You could get away with the 30 lbs, but I suspect the 36 lbs would be better.

You can't avoid ethanol anymore. Ethanol is more harmful to 2 stroke boat motors than 4 stroke. And it is more harmful to 4 stroke boat motors than car motors. That part will make more sense in a minute. Ethanol is alcohol and alcohol will react with gas and the atmosphere and accumulate free water in your gas tank. Over time it can also separate from the gas (alcohol and gas don't mix well). Therefore, you run the risk of free water or alcohol being drawn into your motor possibly resulting in damage. Running on alcohol is especially devastating to a 2 stroke since the alcohol removes all the lubrication from the inside of the motor causing catastrophic failure. These problems don't normally effect cars because the gas in your car is usually used up quickly and is frequently mixed as you drive. Ethanol needs time to attract moisture and to phase separate. You just don't normally give your car's fuel enough time to do that. So the moral of the story is to always stabilise your fuel and try not to store fuel for extended periods of time.

Good choice on the Evinrude. Ontario and BC have legislated that all fuel must contain up to 10% ethanol so you can't actually avoid it anymore. The mixing is done at the refinerary (as I understand) and its by volume so you don't know exactly how much ethanol will make its way by percentage to the pump. Its no conspiracy. By adding ethanol to a lower quality fuel you can get a higher price for what was once low grade crude. That's the very same principle that makes the tar sands in Alberta viable. Also, you create another agricultural market. It gives the farmer one more way to make money. The benefit to the government is that we all think it means we will be less dependent on oil (foreign or domestic), increases the rural economy and gives us the warm and fuzzy feeling that we are helping the environment (bullcrap, but don't get me started on that one). Ethanol will damage motors. The best thing you can do is to use a quality fuel stabiliser everytime you fill up your boat. And don't store gas for long periods of time. Try to buy it as you need it.

What do you need it to do? If you just want to see bottom structure and contour then just buy a cheap unit. I have a Humminbird Piranha Max 20 (a step down from the 525) and it works fine for shallow water and stationary fishing. However, now that I'm fishing deeper waters and trying to scout out new lakes, I'm in the market for a finder that does a better job of marking fish and won't lose bottom tracking at 10-15 km/h. Also, you probably can't re-use your mount or transducer, especially if its old. Since you have two units, I'd put a higher quality one in the back to make scouting new locations and finding fish easier.

You've hit my #1 pet peeve right on the head, Photoz. It takes on average 12 years for a cigarette butt to decompose. And that's assuming it is in a good degrading environment. They belong in the trash not on the river bank, in the lake, out the window or on the side walk. The only thing you can leave behind is natural compostable materials such as food waste. Paper coffee cups do not fall under "natural compostable materials", however, they do less harm in the natural environment than in the landfill so its a double edged sword. You should still pack them out and put them in your composter, wet waste recycle bin or dry them and put them in with your paper waste.

No Joey, we didn't keep any fish. As much as I would have like to, those rivers are heavily pressured so I thought it best to let them swim another day. However, if we had of been on a less pressured tributary we would have brought four of those tasty little guys home.

Algae blooms in various conditions, even under ice in winter. Algae can thrive under any of the following conditions. Warm, nutrient rich, calm or high sunlight exposed waters. In combination, you generally get large algal blooms like the one in your pictures. If you would like some further reading do an internet search on "Algae Blooms or Growth" or "eutrophication".

That's algae, alright. Judgin only by those two photos, I'd say its completely normal for this time of year and current weather conditions at that location. Algae thrives in warm, nutrient rich, calm and/or high sunlight exposed waters. Looks like that one has all of those things.

I used to tow my 14.5' deep and wide (and heavy) aluminium boat with a 20 hp Johnson behind a 1999 2.4 L (150 hp) Chevy Cavalier Z24 with a 5 speed transmission. That car was not rated to tow where as the automatic version was at 1000 lbs. That car pulled great. It would handle two +200 lbs guys and our gear, plus boat, two full tanks of gas and two deep cycle batteries with no problem. You only noticed the wieght when going up bigger hills. In fact, it pulled as good as (or better than) my 2004 Ford Ranger 3.0 L (150 hp) with automatic transmission. The manual tranny made all the difference. Also, I wasn't as susceptible to slippery ramps with the front wheel drive. I have complete confidence that your car could pull any normal 14' aluminium utility matched to any motor that it is rated for. But that's just my opinion.

If you go the route of a dolly with a board attached to it make sure there is enough room between the handles to fit your motor. I have a dolly like that, but it just barely holds my 20-30 hp Johnsons (approx 120 lbs). This is what it looks like. You would need a more robust dolly for your motor. http://www.myfishingpictures.com/showphoto.php?photo=129169 http://www.myfishingpictures.com/showphoto.php?photo=129170 Here is one I made out of an old BBQ. It holds up to 100lbs. I've had my big motors on it, but it really doesn't like it much. I really like the size of this one. Plus it can be rolled right up to a barrel for testing. http://www.myfishingpictures.com/showphoto.php?photo=129168

I just returned from visiting my family in Alberta. Spent a couple days in Calgary and kicked off Stampede week. Then I was off to my parents home on the BC/AB border in the Crowsnest Pass, Alberta. http://www.myfishingpictures.com/showphoto...0&password= Crowsnest Mountain http://www.myfishingpictures.com/showphoto...0&password= More mountains http://www.myfishingpictures.com/showphoto...0&password= This is the view in front of my parents home. I spent three days fishing with my brother. The first day was more of a scouting trip looking for access. The second day we decided to hit the Old Man River above the reservoir. I forgot my camera that day so I don't have any photos except a panorama I took of the river valley the day before. We started the trip fly fishing, but since we both suck and my brother accidentally broke his rod, we switched to ultralight action spinning gear. http://www.myfishingpictures.com/showphoto...0&password= Old Man River Valley Fishing was good for me on the Old Man. I caught two Rainbows (12-14 inches) and my first Bull Trout (8 inches). It was small, but its not every day you catch an endangered species and get to add another species to the life list. I lost three more Rainbows trying to land them (we didn't have a net) and a number of missed bites, short strikes and followers. My brother didn't get a bite. The following day was short since we only had the morning to fish. We decided to fish the Crowsnest River since it was closer and we didn't want to waste precious fishing anytime. Here are a few misc shots. http://www.myfishingpictures.com/showphoto...0&password= http://www.myfishingpictures.com/showphoto...0&password= http://www.myfishingpictures.com/showphoto...0&password= This day my brother had better luck. He caught two small Rainbows and lost a couple trying to land them. I caught a couple more Rainbows, but the highlight was a 16-18 inch Bull Trout. It was a beautiful fish. Unfortunately, my brother was too far away at the time to get a photo so he was released without a photo. http://www.myfishingpictures.com/showphoto...0&password= My brother with Rainbow. And a couple shots of me. http://www.myfishingpictures.com/showphoto...0&password= http://www.myfishingpictures.com/showphoto...0&password= It was a great trip. Wish I had more time to fish. However, it was just nice to fish with my brother again. We haven't really fished together since we were kids. This is how I want him to remember me when he's over in Afganistan next year.

Figure "A" is right. Don't double up the chain.

Order: Anchor, shackle, chain, shackle, rope. That anchor (is called a Danforth and does not perform well without the chain. Its needs the weight of the chain to help dig the flukes in and keep the end down. Use it for soft bottoms like Ohiofisherman recommends. The benefit is that it is easier to break loose than other anchors should it ever get stuck. I carry one on my boat, but mostly use a Navy anchor.

Use either 87 or 89 octane. The high test is not designed for your motor and will leave more deposits in the combustion chamber. Those deposits could negatively effect your motor in the future. Phase separation of alcohol and gas is going to be a bigger concern in the future as we move to ethanol fuels. The best way to protect your motor is to always add fuel stabiliser to your fuel and never store fuel any longer than you have to. Also, glad it worked out for you.

Its great. It is exactly the right size for my boat. Used it perch fishing on Simcoe a couple weeks ago. It was much nicer than starting up the big motor every 15 minutes to move. Not that we moved around much that day. The perch were on fire. Sat on one spot for at least an hour of continuous action. Caught well over a hundred fish between the pair of us and took home a couple dozen 10-13" jumbos. Released a couple 14" breeders. Simcoe has been on fire for perch this year. Can't wait for bass to open. Hope your season has been as productive so far.

That's a wise decision. Good luck.

I don't have much experience with bow mounts. I have one and used it a couple times. It now sits in my basement waiting to be used again. Mine is a Motorguide and may not be the same as yours, but I did once have to tighten a screw inside the shaft. I accidentally dropped it when I took it off to install a quick release and the blow loosened a set screw inside, which caused it to act pretty much like you are saying until I tightened it back up. Perhaps something in yours didn't get retightened after the install. Just a thought. As unlikely as it is.

Its not reaching high RPM's that why he's only getting half throttle. Probably just enough fuel working its way through to keep from dying at speed. I suspect you are right, though, there is likely some crap in there. Also, we got so swept up with the carb...better check that fuel pump too.

"If it was the float valve not seating it would flood the motor not starve it, if the float valve was plugged choking the motor wouldn't draw extra fuel past it..." Your assuming the needle is stuck open I'm assuming its partially blocked. If it was just the idle and intermediate circuit it wouldn't effect top end performance. Also, choking doesn't draw extra fuel in it limits the amount of air coming in, which makes for a richer fuel to air mixture. Priming draws in extra fuel. Either way, there is either a restriction of fuel coming into the carb or in both the high and low circuits or in the low idle circuit and the atmospheric hole in the bowl. Top end is influenced at the high speed jet, the float needle or the atmospheric hole. If there is any blockage in any of these you will not get top end.

Not to be contradictory, but if the carb is gummed up enough to cause problems just running Seaform or spraying in carb cleaner won't fix it. It does sound like fuel starvation. Clean or replace any fuel filters, pump fresh gas through the lines and then clean the carb. You will have to remove it from the engine and completely dismantle it. If you don't take it completely apart and clean out every nook and cranny it will probably plug again. What has likely happened is that some gunk in the carb lifted and partially plugged the float needle. Soaking in carb cleaner will only serve to destroy your seals and to loosen any and all gunk in the carb, which could make a bigger mess when you try to run it. I expect a marina would charge about $100 to rebuild your carb (one hour labour + parts and taxes). If you are not comfortable doing it yourself then take it in. Never hurts to have a professional look at it.

It sounds to me like the Motomaster chargers you guys have used are automotive chargers. Those are not meant for deep cycle batteries and may destroy your batteries. Sounds like you are all on the right track now. Charging at 2A is fine, but its good to charge at a higher rate (10A) as well. Charging at 10A to start helps eliminate sulphation (coating of the plates), which decrease electrical flow. I also should have clarified that 13-17 hours is the max time it shold take based on mathimatics. You can't actually draw every amp out of a battery so charge time will be less than the mathimatically derived max.

Its ok to recharge your starting battery at 20A, but don't charge a true deep cycle at over 10A. 20A is ok if you have two batteries connected together. JB, your battery is not likely charging to 100% its probably showing that the charging voltage is over 12.8 when set to 30A. Doesn't mean its charged to 100% just means the charging voltage being applied is equal to or over what the battery would display as 100%.