boatman

I've never tried it so you probably shouldn't listen to me. The liner may help deaden the sound a little, but for all the reasons mentioned its not the best alternative. A very cheap and easy solution is to build a small floor for the bottom. Not a big platform tied into the seats with a casting deck and storage etc. Rather you just cut a couple pieces of plywood covered with any marine or outdoor carpet and place it on the floor areas where you intend to walk. The pieces can be installed so they are permanently attached or so they can be removed. I've seen both and they work fine. An added benefit is that you have a nice relatively flat floor to stand.

Only anecdotal as I only use if for decarbonising old outboards. I can tell you that its highly regarded for it abilities as a fuel stabiliser, fuel conditioner and decarboniser. Many of my ouboard buddies swear by it especially in 2 stroke motors. It isn't snake oil, but at around $10/can or $2.50 - $10 per recommended dose its rather pricey.

I'm not a professional small engine mechanic like, Big Cliff, but I do maintain and repair dozens of small engines for my employer as well as my personal collection of +30 outboard motors. I, too, recommend using fuel stabiliser in every tank of gas, however, since you will probably turn your gas over frequently you are not likely going to have bad gas issues during the season. At the very least, use it at the end of the season before you put the boat to bed. Fuel stabiliser helps keep your fuel from volatilising, absorbing moisture and combats phase separation of alcohol enhanced fuel (ethanol blends). If you don't use it you run the risk of the alcohol separating from the gas in your tank. Since the alcohol is denser than gas it sits on the bottom and can't be seen by just looking into the tank. Straight alcohol is terminal for 2 strokes and potentially so for 4 strokes. Not all fuel stabilisers are equal. Choose a good brand name like Stabil, Briggs & Stratton, Optimax, or your engine makers proprietary formula to name a few. Keep in mind that proprietary formulas are usually just brand name products repackaged and sold at a permium under the engine makers name. Seaform also has good fuel stabilising properties, but in my opinion its a little too expensive to use in every tank unless you only burn a few tanks a year. I'm not a fan of the regular Stabil, but I have started using their Marine formula. If it does what it promises then it'll be worth the premium price.

Yamaha

Now that is an educated post. Average salary for a teacher is more than $60K, but much less than $92. People may get into teaching for the love of the work, but that doesn't mean they shouldn't be compensated for it. If you do a job you deserved to be fairly compensated. I'm not commenting on whether they make too much or not enough. I will say that the government workers, at least those below management do not make huge amounts of money. I know some government workers and they don't make that much at all. I know trades people, farmers and retail employees that make more. Either way, I can understand people being upset by teacher strikes or strikes in general. I for one am no fan of unions. However, without a union government employees would see little in way of compensation. The union agrees on terms that span 3-5 years and after that period have to renegotiate the contract. Money is usually the smallest part of the contract. In fact, the money portion usually only covers inflation. I know some government employees that won a contract in the early 90's and then the government said "forget it", legislated the workers back to work and then cancelled the contract. Those same employees went without a contract or wage increase for 10 YEARS. That means they effectively took a paycut every year for 10 years. To put that into perspective, with the rate of inflation if they made $40,000 in 1998 they still made $40K in 2008 instead of the $53,000 they needed to make just to stay on parr. How many of you would go 10 years without a pay raise? Like many of you, I too have struggled to make ends meet. I've worked terrible jobs just make less than minimum wage and been glad for the work. However, I'd never bash someone for trying to get ahead or at least just hang onto what they have. Also, teachers pay taxes, too. They pay for their jobs as much as we do.

I too am glad you had a good experience with them. However, next time try a different provider. You are paying for a bungalo to fish from not to stage from. You can stage from the hotel.

Let us know how you do. I'm heading up there next weekend. I've only fished it once and that was a few years ago. There is a bait shop on the highway town and they can tell you everything you need to know. Mostly lakers, ling and small whitefish (if you can get them).

No, I'd be saying "I'll never buy a vehicle from this manufacturer again."

No. Huge waste of cash. Imagine how much warrantee work has to be done to recoup the money outlaid. You'd be better off putting that money in a savings account and using it in case of a problem or putting it toward your next vehicle. Of course, if you're buying a vehicle with 300,000 km on it then go ahead and buy it.

That sounds awfully light on oil. Most augers are 25:1 (40 ml per Litre). Some may even be 40:1. I'd double check the manufacturers oil recommendation. I completely agree with the use of synthetic oil in a 2 stroke. That's all I use in my antique/classic outboards.

Dump the old fuel and mix up some good stuff. If that doesn't fix it you may need the carb cleaned or rebuilt. Always use fresh fuel and stabilise it at the point of purchase. I recycle about 5-10 gallons of fuel per year. I never risk using last year's stabilised gas. I even had a tank of stabilised fuel go bad over the summer this last year. It was properly stored and only 2-3 months old. Imagine my surprise when I went to change the tank out on the lake. Good thing I always switch before the tank is dry.

Glad you got it figured out. 6-10 pulls is a lot pulling and it sounds like its either extra cold blooded or you could stand to turn the high speed out a bit too. The settings sinker posted are just starting points. Isn't it nice to be able to fix the little things yourself? Happy fishing with your new auger.

Actually, the huts were fine. We had no problems with the huts. It was the service and the lies that bothered us. I think he told us he was retired. Moved up from down south or something.

A group of us went there a couple years ago and rented the big bungalo. Same terrible experience as you. The hut was set up in a back bay by the boat launch/ access point and the operator had the nerve to say that "every fish in Nippissing has to go under (our) hut". He wouldn't move the bungalo, which was fine, but he also wouldn't take us and our portables out farther where the fish were being caught even though he said he would when we booked. Of course, when I posted about it on another board I used to frequent I got berated for doing so. I'm glad you can expose bad operators on this one.

Sorry, I don't have any advice. A friend of mine had an Aqua Vu, but he couldn't get the camera aimed properly when ice fishing. He got fed up trying and gave the unit to me. I haven't used it yet, but I understand its best to use some sort of tripod or other holding device to aim the camera. Just something to be aware of.

I grew up near Kingston and I hunt Manitoulin Island. I find the Manitoulin deer to be very mild and delicious. However, I've never eaten an old deer from there. Also, not much cedar on the 400 acres I hunt. I only ever ate bucks growing up and I can say that at the very least bucks from north of Kingston are gamier than young bucks and does I've had from Manitoulin. However, all were very good.

I just need to comment on this. I think I've read it from two posters now. Don't believe the propaganda the Drilling Resources instructors give out. One of my best friends took that program. He is currently the manager of a drilling and blasting company and he will tell you that the work and money is not there for everyone. The big money is hard to comeby and always far away in remote places like the arctic. New hires don't make a lot of money and the hours are long and the work is often boring and repetitive. Don't take drilling if you are looking for a big money career and certainly don't take it if you don't have an interest in the work. Of course, if you think $14 an hour is big money then ignore what I just said. I should also add that my friend just laid everyone off before Christmas and he has no idea when he can bring guys back or how many he will bring back.

I too graduated from Fleming in 1999. I took Terrain and Water Resources (now its called Evironmental Sciences or something). Then I went to Lakeland College in Alberta and got an Applied Degree in Environmental Management. I found work with as an Environmental Consultant remediating contaminanted sites and Co-ordinating geotechnical surreys and construction projects. I'm in a different environmental field now with a much larger employer. The money is good and the hours are better. A friend of mine from common semester became a CO shortly after Fleming. He was successful because he wasn't afraid to go where the job was. I ran into him in Kenora when I was doing a job up there about 7 years ago and then just last year he checked my fishing party on Mitchell's Bay by Chatham - small world. Expect a lot of contract and short term positions when you start out. Eventually, the stability comes. When I worked as a student at a provincial park the Assistant Park Superintendant told me he worked with the MNR for 20 years before getting on fulltime. That's something to think about too. The Fish and Wildlife Tech program is really geared for goverment and especially the MNR and Conservation Authorities. Government is hiring a lot more now and this is a great time to get in. The baby boomers are retiring and jobs are opening up.

Many correct statements have been made, but Terry is the most correct. One thing that seems to be the grey area here is the intial charging rate. Yes it should be high, but not 20A for most deep cycle batteries. Starting batteries can take that sort of abuse, but not true deep cycle batteries or AGM's. The rule is that the initial charge amperage should not exceed 10-15% of the battery's total rating. Since the most common marine deep cycle batteries are 75-100 AH you should not charge at a rate greater than about 10A/per battery. There is nothing wrong with maintaining a battery on trickle charge, however, it is best to use an automatic charger not a manual. This is true for both initial and maintenance charging. No more than 2A per battery for trickle charging. Left on float, a good automatic deep cycle or AGM trickle charger will charge your batteries to 100% and then shut off until the battery's charge falls below 80 or 90%. Automotive chargers should not be used to charge or maintain true deep cycle or AGM batteries. You should be using marine or deep cycle battery chargers. Deep cycle batteries need the electricity to be delievered at a precise rate. Automotive chargers do not do this.

I agree with the statement that anything from a major manufacturer with proper maintenance should be fine. Too bad about Tecumseh they made a good motor. I heard it was coming, but I hoped someone would step in and buy them up or something. Last fall I bought a 1990's MTD built CTC snowblower 26" 2-stage, 6 forward 2 reverse speeds. Its was originally an 8 hp, but someone swapped in a 10 hp Tecumseh Snow King. The motor was blown when I got it. I mean busted rod and a hole in the block so big I could just about pull the piston out of it. I don't know what the fella before me did to this thing to cause it to blow two power plants. Aside from not changing or checking the oil there is really no good reason for it. Everything is belt driven and easy to maintain. In fact, I just changed the auger belts on Sunday and it took about 10 minutes not counting the trip to Home Depot to get them. The motor was easy to replace. Lots of brand new motors or short blocks around for a reasonable price. I picked up a brand new 10 hp Tecumseh Snow King motor for $270 and dropped it on. This is my second season with it and it works great. Throws snow heavy or wet as far as you could want. I'm sure there are better machines, but for the price I couldn't imagine getting anything else.

This topic is being explored a few posts down. Titled "Carrying my gear - on my sled" http://www.ofncommunity.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=26603

Enough with the little bucks. Here is the monster I got this year! Just kidding, of course. 82 yards away. 1 shot. Dropped after +/- 25 yards.

A trailer is in order. Here is a photo of one I'm in the process of building. Its almost complete. I'll be adding plywood to the floor and front panel, as well. There is a Royal Distributing in Guelph, too. My buddy also bought the same Kimpex spring loaded hitch that I got from Royal at Canadian Tire in Kingston. I assume CTC must have it at all their stores.

I drill hundreds of holes every winter and I just couldn't imagine replacing the blades everytime they get dull or I hit a rock/bottom. At 40-80 holes per day (per field trip) you can understand how expensive that would become. I touch up the blades after every use (20 holes or so) even if they are not too bad. Dull blades make for a hard day of tough drilling. Sharpening them is easy. A good file should be part of your ice fishing kit.

On second thought, the last motor is a late 1940's early 1950's Scott-Atwater 3-5 hp. The colour threw me. I can't see it in your photos, but there should be a throttle lever above the carburetor that moves side to side. Sorry, I should have looked closer the first time. Email me with any questions you may have.