boatman

That motor was not rebuilt. The carburetor was. Maybe some ignition parts, but who knows? Probably lower unit serviced, spark plugs replaced. The usual. For $200-300 they had more done than just the carb, but certainly no engine rebuild. He obviously doesn't think there is anything wrong with that motor. Check the lower unit oil, see it run, check compression if you want and if everything is ok - take it home. If you buy it. Change the lower unit oil and replace the impeller. It needs a new impeller.

You got that right, Nippissing! I wish there was a magic oil that would allow me to run something leaner than 24:1. Any used motor can be a dud, whether is costs $500 or $5000 or is a late 70's or 90's.

Good one, Glen. Daplumma, is right about holding the throttle open, but that is for bigger engines. It doesn't apply to small outboards. Won't make a difference if you do it or not on a 9.9-15hp. Good tip, though, for your inevitable next boat.

Carll2, you are the exception to the rule. I shouldn't have said no one rebuilds a motor just to clean it. I should have said ALMOST no one! I'm sure that is not why this one was rebuilt. Anyway, a late 70's OMC is not too old. All parts are still available and relatively inexpensive. Also they are very reliable motors. In fact, I have several OMC's from the 1950's and they run beautifully. But keep on thinking they are too old. You are helping keep the resale on old motors low, which is great for me! I probably wouldn't buy a rebuilt motor just because I'd rather do it myself, but I wouldn't say not to buy one either. It could be that this motor is now like new and better than a used one 20 years newer. We don't know this motor so no one can really comment where it is worth buying or not. Ask the seller a lot of questions and take it to a shop if it gives you piece of mind. $500 is not a lot for this motor, but then again he/she wouldn't get much more regardless of the condition. I'll restate from above: Ask why it was rebuilt and what was replaced. I'd also want to know the current cylinder pressure and if the motor has been run since its rebuild. Also, ask if the lower unit was examined and if the impeller was replaced.

A compression test is super easy. Buy a compression tester from Princess Auto or other similar store for about $20. Remove the spark plugs and turn the threaded end of the tester into the top cylinder where the plug was. Hit the pressure release botton on the tester to zero it. Pull the motor over 4-5 times. Read the tester. Repeat for the bottom cylinder. You want to see about 120psi, but no less than 100psi. More important than the results is the difference between them. You don't want more than 10% difference between the readings. If you take a tester with you the owner will be more likely to let you test it than if you ask to take it somewhere. Some folks just don't want to be bothered. Afterall, these are easy motors to sell. Also, remove the cowl and take a look at the powerhead. Check for paint discolouration around the exhaust cover and head. Any discolouration is a sure sign that the motor has been run too hot at least once. This may have significantly reduced the serviceable life span of the motor. Make sure you ask how to start it and if there is anything you should know about its operation, even if you already know. This can be more telling than the owners answers to your other questions. Other than that, everyone else already told you what else you need to look for. Any physical damage or wear Lower unit oil condition and/or presence of water Prop and skeg condition Paint discolouration on the exhaust cover and head Last time it ran and how well The owners maintenance routine - how did he/she store it and when was the impeller last changed. Good luck.

I agree with Fishandchips and JPD. No one rebuilds a motor just to clean it. That is what Seafoam is for. Either she was super worn out or something devastatingly awful happened to that old girl. However, since it was rebuilt is wasn't catastrophic damage so it should be good to go. Those are pretty easy motors to work on. It'll probably be ok. In fact, if it was done right the powerhead should be like new mechanically. I'd ask why it was rebuilt and what was replaced. I'd also want to know the current cylinder pressure and if the motor has been run since its rebuild. Also, ask if the lower unit was examined and if the impeller was replaced.

You can't beat that deal. I have no problem with a refurb when its a quality product like that. Basspro had them last year for $99.99 and it was the cheapest around. This year they are back up to $120. CTC as much as I love them always over price stuff like that. You can usually find better fishing deals at your local tackle shop.

The problem is called vapour lock. If your fuel cap doesn't have a vent screw on it then you need to open the cap a couple turns when operating the motor. It is one of the most common causes of engine stalling.

Hi all, Sorry to post a non-fishing related post, but I know there are some professional welders here. We are considering buying a MIG welder for work. The problem is, I have to buy it within the next month and I know very little about them. I'll be taking a welding course before I operate the welder, but I must buy the unit first. If someone could give me a recommendation for a welder and/or where I could get one in the Hamilton area that would be great. I require: 1) Simple operation - I won't be using this machine a lot so it must be a little forgiving. 2) Weld thin to large gauge steel - Mostly medium to large gauge. 3) Gas sheilded 4) 220V 5) Under $1000 - if possible Thanks a lot Boatman

Take a tip from a professional... Always check the ice as you go. Walk with a needle bar or a (very sharp) ice chisel and throw the end into the ice ahead of you as you walk. If it goes through on the first throw it is too thin. Occassionally, check for thickness. The ice might be 4" in one spot, but less than 2" just a few feet away.

I'm not sure I'm ready to have my outboard smell like bubble gum! How about barbeque or fresh rain? lol Your motor was designed for 87 octane. High octane gas has more additives and requires a hotter burn than your motor provides. It does not burn completely in the low compression environment inside your outboard and will leave more residue in the combustion chamber. Your motor might be a 1973, but its ignition system was designed in the 50's. Ethanol being dry isn't the problem since its the oil that does the lubricating. Ethanol deteriorates the rubber parts in your fuel system and has the nasty habit of separating from the gas and attracting water. Imagine trying to run your outboard on pure alcohol or water! If you have to use Ethanol blended fuel, as we all will soon, its best to stabilise the fuel as soon as you mix it. Actually, I recommend stabilising everytime regardless, but again that's a personal choice.

Always glad to help, 50:1 would have been the recommended ratio in 1973 using 2 stroke oil. However, back then it was still common to mix the fuel with automotive engine oil at 32:1 or 40:1 as 2 stroke oil was still not that common. 2 stroke oil of the day was also not as good as it is now. OMC motors built during and after 1964 use a 50:1 oil mix. Mix your fuel at 50:1 using a TCW3 rated oil and 87 octane (ethanol free if possible) gasoline. You don't need to use synthetic oil, but that's a personal choice. Also, don't use higher octane gas as it will leave deposits in your motor. I still recommend a good decarbing using Seafoam or other quality product. Boatman PS. I can't jet a Holley, but I know a little about old OMC's. I'm always looking for old OMC outboards to rebuild.

Looks like a nice unit. I'd be very happy with it. Your motor was built between 1964 and 1973. It could be either a Johnson or Evinrude. It has obviously been repainted, but those are Evinrude colours from the 60's even if they don't match the original paint scheme. It also looks like its had some parts replaced. Post the model number and I'll tell you what year it is for sure. Also, check that the model number on the transom mount matchs the number on the engine block. I wouldn't be surprised if they were different. You might find it doesn't make as much power as you'd expect from a 9.5 since its based on the old 7.5hp motor, but it should push your boat fine. Its a good motor when properly maintained. It has two common issues. One is exhaust gas getting in under the shroud and choking the engine and the other is related to the fuel recirculating tube from the crankcase to the cylinders. Make sure all the seals are good, especially the one around the shift lever and you won't have the exhaust problem. The recirculation tube problem is more difficult. I have never worked on one of these motors so I can only tell you what I've heard. The recirc. tube takes unused fuel that pools in the crankcase and reinjects it into the cylinder instead of letting it drain out the exhaust into the environment. This causes fuel richness issues at times. Run it at 50:1 and decarb the engine right away. It'll probably give you another +30 years.

Sorry Glen, I haven't been here for a while. I'm not sure what prop is on the 15hp. It is just the standard all-purpose prop. Its a motor I borrowed from work while my 20hp was being serviced. My boat is in my avatar. It has a modified V hull - deep and wide. Its rather flat from about midship to the stern so it has lots of surface area. You'd think it would get up with little trouble, but obviously it doesn't. The hull doesn't look much different from the new Princecrafts utilities. Also, your motor would have a 9" prop. Its a completely different animal than mine. Nice motor, though. Glad to know people are still running those old girls. I bought the 10.5x11 cupped prop and I'll let you know how it turns out this spring.

Good luck. I hope you enjoy the area. I grew up just south of there and I never encountered a pay launch until I moved away. You are truly moving to fish heaven.

We were fishing 40' exactly. The bite was best before 10am. With these cold temps the ice should be ok this week.

4" is safe for foot travel. When you punch a hole in the ice you weaken its structure so you need to factor that in. That's why you shouldn't fish on less than 4". Not that you can't do it. Its just not safe.

Friday: Drove to Miner's Bay and saw one portable hut on the ice. We tested the ice anyway and found the needle bar would penetrate the ice on the first blow everytime. That means the ice was less than 3 inches and not safe for travel let alone fishing. We then drove to 12 mile and found about 2.5" of ice near shore. Lyle from the Red Umbrella ice huts told us he threw a rock off the point and it broke through the ice. So no fishing 12 mile for a while. Next stop was Big East. We found about 4-5" of white ice. So finally we were fishing. After a rapid flurry of timid nimblers we had no more action for the next few hours. The splake were very hook shy. Unfortunately, we weren't geared up for this since we had expected to fish sticks and spreaders for Lakers. On the way home we decide to hit Maple Lake and take a look. There was about 3" of good black ice about 30m from shore. We could see that some people had been fishing farther out, but we decided it wasn't safe. After a long day of driving and fishing we left skunked. Saturday: Remember Friday? We did too. Drank beer and watched TV. Sunday: After a good day of over -15 deg temps we decided that Miner's Bay might have enough ice. When we arrived there were only a couple portable huts out on the ice. We found 3-4" of ice (we actually measured it) in the clear areas and less under the snow covered spots. It was marginal, but we decided to set up the hut on one of the clear areas. We caught our first fish as we dropped the first line down. We then caught the next fish as the second line went down. In total we caught 5 lakers, 1 whitefish and missed a couple others. As the morning went on more and more people arrived. Everyone seemed to be having success. Unfortunately, as more people arrived and began to poke holes in the ice the structural integrity of the ice began to diminish. We decided to leave once the ice started to crack. Mind you, these weren't pressure cracks from the lake making ice, but rather from the load on it. When we left we counted 16 parties and more were coming. I hope there were no accidents out there today, but with all those people packed onto one small area of such thin ice it was an accident waiting to happen. Be safe out there and remember that no fish is worth dying for. Boatman

I think the 5/160,000 is just for the powertrain, which if you ask me is not worth a pinch of coon-crap. Any powertrain that can't last that long is worth having. Most problems don't really start untill after 150,000 Km. However, my old 1999 Cavalier was a great car. Not a single problem in 120,000 Km when I turned it in last August. I hope the next owner has good luck with it.

I read on an outboard forum that they are copies of Yamaha designs that didn't meet EPA standards, but that the 4 strokes are exactly the same as new Yamahas. Maybe they are under license or maybe they are a rip-off? If I was going to buy one then I'd probably go with a 4 stroke if it was indeed the same as a new Yamaha. I do know that their 2.5hp Gull Outboard counterparts have a bad reputation. I'd be leary since there isn't much of a dealer network and they are made in mainland China. If I was going to dump that kind of money into a new motor I'd get something with a good track record and dealer/parts network. Its not much of a deal if you can't get parts and service easily. Ningbo YongWang Motorboat Co. Ltd is the parent company.

Thanks, Glen. The 10x13 is an all purpose prop and I think it is the standard prop for my motor (1984-97 14 tooth spline) although my parts manual shows numerous other choices. There is an approved 11x9, which might be what you have. Either way, I think a 9" pitch would be too much for me. I just need a little extra push. I'm not pulling skiers or anything. Out of curiousity, what type of boat are you running and what is your top speed? I consistently get 34km/h (21mph). I found no top speed difference between a 1993 15hp Evinrude or my 1987 20hp Johnson, but the 15hp won't get me on plane with two people.

Thanks guys, My boat is a 1987 Springbok so its probably the same as your old rig, BITEME. I just want to get on plane a little quicker. Top speed and turning are still ok. I really don't want to put a foil on my motor. I'd sooner use my 1954 25hp motor than do that. The 10.5x11 is an approved prop for my motor. I don't think there is a 10" prop with a pitch less than 13" available for my motor. I thought by increasing the diameter my RPM's wouldn't change too much so it wouldn't over stress the motor, while the decreased pitch would give me the extra torque I need to get on plane. Is my thinking wrong?

Anyone know much about props? I have a 20hp Johnson with a 10x13 OEM prop that takes a long time to get my boat on plane when I have 2 +200lbs guys in it. Its ok when I'm alone. I'm thinking of switching to a 10.5x11 cupped prop. Do you think this will get me on plane quicker without too much loss of top speed? The motor is (manually) trimmed to the best setting and the skeg is about 1/2 - 1" below the bottom of the boat. I'm only considering a new prop. I am not going to get a hydrofoil, trim tabs or a new motor.

I've been around for awhile, but I don't post a lot. I'm boatman everywhere I go. I got the nickname on a fishing trip about 10 years ago - And it has nothing to do with boats. I grew up in a bait shop in a small town north of Kingston. I've fished all of my life, but it didn't turn into my principal hobby until college. I've recently begun collecting and rebuilding vintage 1950's OMC outboards. I now have 3 motors for every boat and 2 rods for every motor. Good thing I have a basement.

We had a steady rainfall event yesterday and overnight which raised water levels in all eastern tribs to near high water conditions. Water level for all the eastern tribs were medium to medium high water as of this morning and falling. The 40mm of rain forecasted for today in the Peterborough-Belleville area never materialized. Don't expect more rain until sometime next week.