boatman

Sit anyway you want. The tiller is on the port side because most people are right handed. Just remember that the throttle is "backwards" if you sit on the port side. Its hard to keep that straight in your brain when you are controlling from the port side and you run into trouble.

Agreed, your 30 lbs will be fine. If you get something bigger make sure you get the shorter shaft model. You don't want the tiller up around your ears. Now I just have to add that a trolling motor is great and cheaper than a new outboard motor, but maybe consider a small outboard just the same. A new trolling motor and battery will cost you a minimum of $200 with a budget minded package closer to $300. For under $300 you can pick up any number of good running outboards under 6 hp. Go with something under 4 hp and you can get a built in fuel tank, which will save space. I have a few motors under 3 hp and they will go all day on a tank of fuel or about 4 hours WOT. A Johnson/Evinrude 1.5 - 3 hp would be ideal. Any year is fine as they are all bulletproof and parts are still available if you ever need them. JMO

Like the others have said don't change the mix ratio. The motor shouldn't run "hard". Running on the water is the best test. Running in a barrel or on muffs is second best. Don't buy it until you see and hear it start and run. Lots of things on that motor you can check out, but unless you really know what you are doing its best to have a professional look it over. I've only ever used one steel boat, but I used it a lot. I don't have a problem with them, though, I'd rather have an aluminium. I do remember it giving a nicer ride than the tin boats we used back then. I think 20 hp is too little just the same. However, you can step down a pitch in prop if you have planing problems or get trim tabs. Bernie, nice 1953 25 hp. You have the best pictures.

1953. Made at the very end of the year.

Oh yes, that's a 1952-53 5 hp. Different motor than the 5.5 hp. If I had your serial number I could tell you the year.

Actually, its the same impeller as your 5.5 hp, GeorgeJ. However, the 5.5 hp Johnson wasn't in production until 1954. What is your model number? Should start CD-??.

I forgot to mention that all this stuff is normal. Except the exhaust smell, which sounds like a bad gas issue.

I've never worked on a 4 stroke outboard so I can't give you any model specific advise. I will assume the carb is completely clean as you have cleaned it 3 times. The rubber tipped float needle is the bain of the old outboarder's existance as it as they often stick. However, that shoudn't be the problem if you are getting lots of fuel. They stick closed not open. The float must be level in the bowl when the bowl is full. Set too high and fuel will flow past the needle. Too low and it prematurely shuts off the fuel flow. You can try a new carb kit and actually rebuild the carb. Compression may be an issue. You need good compression to start and run. A tired motor may run, but not have much umph. The rings could also be stuck from sitting causing low compression. Removing the spark plugs and spraying with pentrating oil and then doing a decarb may help unstick the rings if they are stuck. The last possibility is spark. Have you checked for spark? Do you have it on all cylinders? Frequently multi-cylinder outboards will run on one cylinder. Everything appears fine except you have no power. I have no idea what the Honda ignition is so I can't help much here. So to recap; check for spark in all cylinders, check compression with a gauge and recheck the float level. If you were closer I'd tell you to bring it over and I'd help you check it out.

Too low. I buy and sell quite a few motors every year. I would buy it right now for $300.

Spring must be apon us. There are a lot more outboard questions this week. You need the model number for sure. Its definately 1980's. Price depends on condition. In its current cosmetic shape I wouldn't expect more than $600. Make it pretty and that increases to $800 - potentially. But don't expect a quick sale at that price. All things considered, a good running 1980's 9.9 hp should get you $400-800. Can't narrow it down more than that. Condition and demand rules all.

There are two water intake ports on that motor. The main one is the screened intake after the prop in the section that dips off the anti-cavitation plate. The other is a small plate with 4 raised holes on the side just above the anti-cavitation plate. The later is for water flow when running in reverse. Replace the impeller. You should see lots of water coming out with the exhaust.

Fish-miester, Check out the boat in my avatar. Its a 1988 14' Springbok Resorter. Probably the same as your boat. Its rated to 28 hp. It has a full floor and casting deck. I can tell you from experience that a 9.9 hp won't plane it with all the weight. 15 hp planes with just me (200 lbs). A 20 hp gets me and a buddy on plane, but struggles when the buddy is my 300 lbs friend. The 25 hp gets two guys up no problem. The 30 hp which I run on it will plane 3 +200lbs guys, but performance is reduced. The 30 hp also runs at a max speed of 43-44 kph. The 20 hp went 36 kph. Get a 25-30 hp and you will be fine. Leave it as a tiller. The console takes up too much room in a 14' boat.

What size hp are we talking about? If the inside diameter of the OMC style fitting is smaller than the Honda then it could be restricting fuel flow. However, I doubt that is the case. I'd bet its something else. I've replaced Mercury fuel connectors with OMC style and they work fine (and are better and easier to find). I use spray oil like WD-40 instead of propane. You can buy seafoam at NAPA. That's the only place I've found it. What problems are you experiencing? Its hard to help without knowing what's going on.

I know lots of antique outboard motor guys that swear by Pennzoil full synthetic 2 stoke oil. Some are marine techs. I doubt that the Pennzoil semi-synthetic is bad. I wouldn't hesitate to use it. Also, we don't have the full synthetic Walmart oil here in Canada. In fact, its hard to find full synthetic in Canada unless you buy Amsoil or dealer oil. I use Amsoil. I also have a couple gallons of Pennzoil full synthetic waiting for use this summer. I should also add that any oil that is NMMA TC-W3 certified is fine.

Because back when cars were being invented/perfected the size of the 2 stroke engine required too move them would have been too noisey, caused too much vibration and used more fuel than 4 stroke engines. So the 4 stroke gas engine won the battle for automotive supremacy. It also beat out the steam and electric cars.

Congratulations, you made the right choice. You won't be disappointed. Four people is probably outside of the max cap anyway. If you find you have any planing issues try trimming your motor differently. My 14' boat with a 30 hp planes two +200lbs guys no problem. With three guys it planes, but it runs better if I trim the motor out one pin to raise the bow.

He was also comparing an old motor to an new one. My 1954 25 hp uses about 1/3 more fuel than my 1988, which probably uses 1/3 more than a new one. Either way, its a 25 hp. He won't be spending big bucks on fuel anyway. Its not an issue of being a speed freak. Its about setting up a boat that can do everything you need.

No, he'll go about 40-45 kph with the 25 hp. The 20 hp will have to work harder than the 25 hp to maintain the same speed. Therefore, using more fuel and struggling to plane with heavier loads (ie two big guys and gear). That will make the fuel consumption a wash. However, he'll still miss those extra ponies. Any new 4 stroke will probably get 40% better fuel economy than my 1988 2 stroke. Then again, a new 2 stroke will get much better fuel economy than my motor too. If we were comparing two 25 hp or two 20 hp motors then I'd say get a 4 stroke, but we are not. I think too many of you are giving advice from your hearts not your heads.

Excellent comment. You've basically compared both the subject motors in real life. Your results would suggest exactly what Sinker and I have been arguing. Getting on plane IS hole shot. Go with the 20 hp now and in two months you will be asking the age old queston "Do hydrofins really work?".

At Yamaha's 100:1 mix there will be very little smoke. Use synthetic oil and there will be half as much smoke. Synthetic marine oil is also biodegradable. Even my antique outboards which run at 24:1 don't smoke so bad that you "choke". I use synthetic oil and you only notice the smoke at start up when its cold. I have two newer Yamaha 15 hp 2 strokes at work and they barely smoke. They also troll right down and don't rattle a lot. You can't compare the old 2 strokes to today's. New ones are engineered so much better. Actually, Bushart, hole shot is important for any planing hull boat regardless of hp.

That only explains why some motorbike guy likes 4 strokes better than 2 strokes. Doesn't explain why the 20 hp is better than the 25 hp on the poster's boat.

How so? The 20 hp will have less hole shot, less top speed, more strain underload. Fuel economy will be negligible. So why is it better?

Where did you get that number? Out of a hat? At wide open throttle (WOT) both 2 and 4 strokes get about the same fuel economy. Lots of published reports and comparisons on the net to prove it. You can't compare RPM's and fuel economy when you are comparing 2 and 4 strokes. That is why 4 strokes look so much more economical on paper. That isn't to say they can't be more economical, it is just that they may not be under certain conditions. I think everyone needs to take a step back. He didn't ask if you prefer 2 or 4 stroke. He didn't ask about ETECs or if your boat performs better with a 135 or 175. What he asked is what is the better motor for his boat. If they were both the same horse power then we'd have a need for a discussion, but the fact of the matter is he is considering either a 25 hp 2 stroke or a 20 hp 4 stroke on a 14' jon boat max rated to 25 hp. Given these choices the answer is clearly the 2 stroke.

Both are fine motors. Since you don't have a preference between 2 or 4 stroke and you are just looking for the best performance possible then the answer is obvious. You should get the 2 stroke. More power + less weight + less money = the better option. The only real benefit of the 4 stroke is the electric start and quieter running. Fuel consumption may be better with the 4 stroke, but that depends on how you run it. At WOT they all use about the same amount of fuel. The savings come at trolling and (sometimes) cruising speeds. However, the 20 hp will have to work harder to attain the same cruising speed as the 25 hp. Could be you won't see any fuel savings at all so I wouldn't use that as a determining factor in this case.

Some motors are easier to extend than others. Personally, I'd get the extension kit. You never know what you are going to get in a used motor. If you buy the kit I'll help you install it. No charge of course. Bernie, nice boat. Love the Johnson's.