boatman

The instructor's can't get you in at the local Conservation Authorities. That's government and you can't get a government job that way. The Tilapia hatchery on campus is often hiring fulltime, part time and casual. If you give your resume to the farm manager personally (ask for Mike) and he doesn't think you are a shiftless loser he may find something for you.

There is no hard and fast rule. You use different lengths for different circumstances or rode type. 3:1 rope to depth is minimum for holding in quiet conditions. 5:1 or more for normal conditions. A chain rode needs less length.

I saw them in Hamilton a few months ago. Lots of people brought cameras.

I can be found on the harbour almost every weekend in the summer. Usually, I'm running a 12' tin boat with various small hp motors. Sometimes I'm running in a 14.5' aluminium with a 30 hp. I have to pick and choose my days. I can tell you what the forecasted and/or current wind direction and speed is everyday for Hamilton Harbour during the boating season. For me, wind from the west under 15 kph is ideal. The Pier 4 launch is great. There are only two problems with it. Idiots parking their cars in the trailer parking area and the volume of boat launching traffic. I find its best to launch before 10 am. Don't expect to receive any respect from other boaters while on the harbour or especially through the canal. No one cares that you are in a small boat and seldom do they respect the no-wake rules.

I bought one of these very units from Uncle Buck last year. I don't have the GPS puck as I use a handheld GPS. However, the unit itself is great and UB was very helpful. I think he's owned most of the Matrix line.

I'm interested to hear how it turns out. Sometimes its an easy mod and others times its not. Its always year and model dependent. I look forward to reading about your results. Any chance you will have any GPS results before and after the mod?

On second thought, you should try to solder the wires. It would be good practise and if it doesn't work you aren't out anything. Use a rosin flux core solder for electronics. Do not use acid flux solder. Try not to get the wire close to the packpack too hot as it could damage the powerpack.

Well, you could just add a short piece of wire to bridge the gap, but if you aren't comfortable with soldering then don't bother. The soldered joint has to be good and you have to be quick when soldering that close to the powerpack. That is the right powerpack for your motor (BRP 582552 or Sierra 18-5758). That one will cost you about $75 CDN before PayPal fees and duty. Could end up being closer to $100 if they ding you at the border. Its cheaper than your local marina, though. Sierra marine sells a powerpack for your motor for about the same price. You can order it online at marinemanifold.com or get it at your local NAPA dealer. Just give them the Sierra part number. http://www.marinemanifold.com/SearchResult...eyWords=18-5758

Do you have a soldering iron? You can solder them back together. Use a water proof heat shrink tubing to cover the splice.

I don't remember all your questions so if I miss something post back. The silver plug in your first photo is the serial number. Unfortunately, the model number isn't marked on it. Oh well, you have confirmation that its a 1980 and that's all you need. I wouldn't use brake cleaner because it may remove the paint. A little soap and water is all you need. The wires look fine in the photos. Looks to me like only the wrapping was chewed. That wrap is only there to keep the wires orderly. Rewrap with tape if you want, but its not necessary. If any of the wires are chewed bare, you can use Liquid Electrical Tape like someone suggested. As mentioned, put a healthy does of oil in the cylinders and then pull the rope to get everything lubricated. Any oil you have is ok (WD-40, penetrating oil, motor oil or 2 stroke engine oil). I use penetrating oil (PB Blaster or Seafoam) because it will creep into places that other oils won't and will help free the rings if they are stuck. I wouldn't use WD-40 as I understand it can actually attract moisture as well as gum things up when it dries. I don't even own the stuff. I use 3 in 1 spray oil instead. The spark plugs have a number stamped on the ceramic part. You can get them anywhere that sells spark plugs. Canadian Tire and Walmart usually have them in stock. They are very popluar. Spark plugs rarely go bad, but as a matter of course I usually replace them on motors I don't know. This motor would qualify for new plugs if it was me. Then forget about them. You will probably never need to replace them again unless you do a decarb like someone suggested. That sometimes ruins the plugs. No problem. Plugs are cheap. Buy an oil pump for the lower unit. The pump is about $10 and you can get it at Canadian Tire, Walmart or your local marina/small engine shop. There are lots of lower unit oils that will be fine to use. Basically, it needs to be 90W oil. Since you will be going to CTC to get plugs and a pump anyway just pick up a bottle of their marine gear oil. Finally, I mentioned this in your other thread, but I'm going to say it again. Replace the impeller. I forgot to mention that if there isn't anything majorly wrong with the motor then you should only have less than $100 invested in it (impeller and seals $30, oil $10, plugs $6, oil pump $10).

That is a great picture, Lew. And your dad was a lucky man. That motor is a 1951 Johnson 25 hp. First year for that motor. It was light years ahead of everything produced before it and the largest hp outboard you could buy from OMC at the time. He would have had a hot rod.

Not is simply not right. The tiller was placed on the port side of the outboard well before motors were powerful enough for prop rotation to cause a problem. It also has nothing to do with the gearshift. Outboards have had the tiller on the port side since the dawn of outboards over 100 years ago. The gearshift has only been around for 60 years. They didn't put the tiller on the port side thinking "someday we'll have a gearshift on the starboard side." As I said before, it is because early outboards needed so much adjusting while underway that the operator needed their "good" (right) hand to make the adjustments. It is commonly excepted that controls are placed on the starboard side due to prop rotation, but that is also a function of the industry standardizing itself and the increased power of outboards since the 1950's. Prior to the 1960's you could expect to find the steering and controls in any location - port, starboard, center, fore or aft.

Very true. That is an important seal and should be changed with the impeller. That was an oversight on my part. driveshaft o-ring BRP 303067 or Sierra 18-7116

I'll make things easier for you. Here are the part numbers for the parts you may need. You can order them from your local marina using the BRP part number or aftermarket on the internet or from NAPA with the Sierra part numbers. The BRP parts are better, but the Sierra are cheaper. Impeller - BRP 386084 or Sierra 18-3050 approx $25 Carb kit - BRP 398453 or Sierra 18-7223 approx $30 Drain/vent screw seals - BRP 311598 or Sierra 18-4248 approx $2 I included the drain/vent screw washers for the lower unit because you should replace them everytime you change the lower unit oil.

On (probably) the starboard side of the engine block you will see a small silver disc the size of a quarter. On it may be the model and/or serial number. To be honest, the serial number is pretty much useless. You really need the model number. I would bet your motor is a 1980. Search around the net and look for photos that match your motor. I'm confident that judging by the decals your motor was built between 1979 and 1984 The parts catalog for your motor is available at BRP's website. Fortunately, all the normal tune-up and replacement parts you may need will be the same for all of the 9.9 hp motors built before the mid to late 1980's. Personally, if we can't pin point the year I'd just assume you have a 1980 and order parts for that year. Here is the BRP website link. epc.brp.com

Highwater is long gone. The waterlevels should stay up for a little while, but the freshet is past. Waterlevels will increase faster than normal during rainfall events until the frost is thawed. Then its back to normal.

I don't think the package is as bad as some others have said, however, if it was me I'd keep looking. I think you can do better. At the very least, wait for it at auction. I expect it will go cheaper than $1500.

Most OMC motors had roller and needle bearings by 1957 and could safely run on TC-W oil at 50:1. The 10 hp did too, but the wrist pins in the pistons were too small and got beat out. That was corrected in 1961. All smaller hp engines still had friction bearings that required more oil. By 1964 everything above 6 hp had fully jewelled bearings. OMC changed the recommendation to 50:1 in that year. The serviceable lifespan of the 3 hp was then significantly reduced. There is also much debate on the subject. Many believe the thinner TC-W oils shouldn't be used in the old motors built before the 1960's with some exceptions, of course.

Motor looks to be 1980's. Mercs go by serial number for ordering parts not year. If you have the serial number you can get the year. Looks pretty normal under the hood. Appears to have new plugs so the fella may be up on his maintenance. A compression test will tell a lot. See it start and run. If he starts it without the motor in water or on muffs walk away.

That is true of why the steering is placed on the starboard side of the boat, but the earliest tiller steer rowboat motors had the tiller located either center or on the port side for righthand operators. Since old motors required a lot of adjustments when underway the operator need their "good" hand to make the adjustments while steering with the other.

You need the model number to order parts. The serial number is for the factory. Either way, they are stamped on the same plate. I did forget to mention to check for spark. However, the CDI ignition in that motor is almost always good. Prior to that model they had coil issues.

LOL I agree with that, Cliff. I don't get fuel without first adding stabiliser even if I know it'll all get used that day.

Nice find. Motor looks to be late 1970's to early 1980's. Judging by the decals I'd say 1980. You need the model number to know for sure. The model number is located on a plate on the transom bracket. Unfortunately, it looks like its missing. The model number may be stamped on a silver plug on the side of the powerhead. Spray a health dose of oil in the cylinders and pull the rope starter a bunch of times to get the internals lubricated. Change the lower unit oil. You will also need a new water pump impeller. You should change it before you attempt to start it. Personally, I would see if it starts first, but you should know its possible that the impeller may fail immediately and parts of it could get lodged in the powerhead water passages - bad news! When you are ready to start the motor, put it on muffs or in a barrel and try to run it using fresh 87 octance gas and TC-W3 outboard motor oil at 50:1.

I completely agree with that statement. I don't fog or oil motors before storage. Other than that, I do as Cliff suggests except I don't wrap the powerhead or dry out the tank. There is so little gas left after its drained that it won't make a difference when you add fresh fuel the following year. Stabiliser works and should be used. The problem isn't usually after 90 days its after extended storage like from season to season. If you are still reading this, Cliff, which stabiliser do you use? I've had good results with Brigg's and Stratton and Optimax. I've had problems with red Stabil. I'm currently trying the marine Stabil. I'm going to do some long term testing of fuel stabiliers in spring. I'd like to know if there are any others I should test to.

I personally think that's because 50:1 is so ingrained in us that people aren't comfortable with less. I know some old timers from back when outboards ran 8:1 to 24:1 ratios that won't use less than 36:1 in newer 50:1 machines. Tolerances are much closer, bearings are smoother and fuel is used more efficiently in new outboards. The motor is designed to have fuel and oil lubricate the engine in very tight passages and spaces. Too much oil and it may be too thick to flow into some of these places, which will effectively under lubricate the engine. Old engines needed the extra oil to add as a buffer to make up the "slop" in the engine tolerances. Unless you know more than the engineers at Yamaha I'd stick with 100:1. The initial 25:1 mix is required mostly for ring and cylinder break-in. Everything is very tight and full of machining marks when new. So the break-in period is the period where the internals seat together and smooth all the rough machine edges out. That means there is extra wear at first and requires extra oil. Once the engine is broken in the extra oil is no longer necessary and may actually be a nuisance. Also, make sure you use conventional oil for break-in. Synthetic is too effective at reducing engine wear. With all that said, I run 50:1 in our 100:1 Yamahas at work only because the motors have limited seasonal use and may sit for extended periods in cold storage. These motors need to be ready to go at a moments notice so I don't fog them. As fogging sometimes creates problems at first start up after storage. 50:1 ensures the motor's have extra oil coating the internals in case they dont get used for a long period. If they were my personal motors I'd use 100:1.