Fisherman

You're pretty close with your diagnosis of fish tasting..well.. fishy. I've always found fish from cold clear water have less of a pronounced taste, as the water warms, some species have more of that taste. Most panfish are very mild, walleye, rarely ever a bad taste, pike, for me, best left for winter fishing. Nothing wrong at all with bass, just make sure to clean them quick and get them into the cooler or fridge and eat them fresh. Salmon, trout, whitefish and any others that have the dark coloured lateral line under the skin must have that removed during filleting otherwise it will taste like rancid codliver oil..real bad. On lakers, don't forget to scrape out the body cavity with a spatula, and along the upper edge of the back, you'll be surprised how much fat there is. Mmmm..deep fried bass, a squirt of lemon & some home fries.

How about JT's in New Lowell, 705-424-1691, about 20 minutes west of Barrie. Call Trevor.

Ya, you would't believe how quickly a rod disappears when something big is pulling on the other end and you ain't paying 'tention....zing..splash... A stellar day to sa the least.

That's true if the both batteries are reasoanbly close to being able to accept the same amount of charge, internal resisance, age, plate porosity, all come into play. Although it might be a bit of a pain, individual charging will give better results unless you are using a multi bank charger specifically intended for that. As for Stotys 24V try, please don't play with batteries, you might launch one and injure yourself. Most chargers, even the junk kind won't put out more than 15V DC, so you're kinda peeing up the rope.

Okay, I'll try, couple Q's first, how old is the unit, what's the brand name on the converter, do you have a GOOD battery hooked up at the front. Some of the older units require a good battery to be hooked up otherwise the converter goes into warp drive. It appears by your description that the converter is trying to power "something" that's taking a lot of power and then causing the overheat. There most likely is a circuit board, but whether it's a modern 3 stage unit or basic 13.8V DC battery burner depends on age of the unit.

Read the bottom of page 8 in the regs regarding size and measuring.

It rains, river goes up, drought, river goes down, it gets cold, river freezes, You can always pin it in your own favourites.

Other than the obvious, do you have any other planned use for it, (No, not lawnmower racing) such as a snowblower attachment, tiller, etc.

Ya, ya, if it wasn't for Clairol, Maybeline, Max Factor and the garage full of face paint, most would never recognize her on the street, probably be a scarry sight.

Ha, you don't look a day older than you did yesterday...best of health.

A name like Clyde..sort of reminds me of a rural French farmer on a big horse, now Joe Daplumma, he's going to look like a little Italian right off the Sopranos, and he's gonna wack ya with a piece of iron plumbing pipe

In that case, you shouldn't be allowed to use the likeness of a javexed chipmunk to hide your identity either... BTW: ADMIN...we need a "POT STIRRING, SMELLY" smiley in the form of someone cranking on a ladle in the toilet...

I see there appears to be 2 screws just to the right of the water drain, use them to bolt on your transducer or piece of wood for the mount. As for silicone, unless it's the special type, silicone doesn't adhere well to aluminum no matter what you prep it with, not recommended. Use either 3M4200 or 3M5200. If your motor doesn't recharge while running, get a small deep cycle, charge it after every days use.

Go with either of the 3M4200 or 3M5200. 3M4200 is a fast cure, 3M5200 takes longer to cure but both are recommended for above/below waterline in the marine environment. Should be able to get it at your local CTC. Make sure the joints are clean before starting. Silicone is best left for the bees...boobies.

A big part of the problem is the internet, I know for certain there a was a person last winter who repeatedly posted all of his catches, gave info out like no tomorrow, you know what I mean.(Not on this board) Well, now we have a result.

When it gets a bit wavey and rough, in my experience, they are not the most stable. Maybe if they were a bit wider, but most don't have enough freeboard to keep the waves out.

Not to forget that the boat/trailer would outweigh the tow vehicle, not a good idea. Any brakes on the trailer?

Go to any battery shop, ask them for 15 "1.2 volt Sub "C" batteries with solder tabs, that's all that's in there. 15 x 1.2 volt = 18V. You might also want t take your battery pack to Rona or Home Depot, they have a pretty big offering, maybe one of those will actually fir your Sears model. Also the Rigid brand has a lifetime warranty, even on the batteries if I'm not mistaken.

No I'm a bit more slender like a crayfish..

First of all, put the question in understandable english.

Let us know how it turns out when you get a new module, might help the next guy out.

And don't forget to tie the boat down securely, front and rear bumper, don't want any 12 foot missles going down the highway...

Take those bearing numbers you have and go to Canada Bearing or any other bearing shop, they will cross ref them and get you rolling.

It's your motor, use it and abuse like as you wish, liken it to any other motor, do you drive a cold motor out of the stops like that..

1. That white ground wire is needed for the module system..suspicion..module is bad. 2. Disconnecting the green, disables the right trailer brake/signal..normal. 3. Green wire is now receiving power from the park light wire..normal. 4. Removing the ground, it should go out, but most likely grounding back through one of the other lights. 5. Not knowing the inner workings of the module, I still don't think the white wire(Jeep side) should spark. How about trying this test: If you have a spare 12 volt battery, check each trailer light individually. On the 4 Flat trailer connector, 12V - to the white, 12 + to the green, yellow and brown, one at a time. See that each light functions brightly, green and yellow will be bright, brown(park) will be a bit more dim, it's normal. If you have extra clearance lamps(yellow at front, red at rear middle) they will also light with the brown. The yellow and green are stop/signal but of course won't flash, there's no flasher in this test. If these all work, no exceptions, then the trailer is okay. Now take a 12V test light or a voltmeter set to 12V DC or higher. Black probe to the white ground tip on the Jeep 4 flat plug, red probe to the brown, should get +12(maybe a bit higher), red probe to yellow, have someone step on brake pedal, +12, do same for green, +12V. Now turn on your left signal on the jeep, ignition on, again check both the yellow and green wires, the test light will flash or your voltmeter will jump to +12V intermittent. Let us know. I'm still leaning a bit to a bad module. Brain poot..one more thing, with the Jeep ignition off, test for +12V between the white and green at the 4 flat Jeep plug. You should not be getting anything.