DanD

I’m not going to say that this gizmo won’t do what it claims; but there is always some form of a trade off when it comes to these things. What I mean is all the different control modules (computers) on your vehicle share information amongst themselves on serial data lines. For example the vehicle speed sensor sends a signal to the engine management, engine management then sends out its interpretation of this signal to the instrument cluster (speedo), cruise control, transmission controller and wherever else, where a speed signal is needed. If this Gforce thing changes what the engine management sees; then engine management will send out an inaccurate signal to the other modules causing them to make inaccurate commands to the working devices they control. Again using the speed sensor as one of hundreds of different scenarios; the cruise may not hold a proper speed, transmission may not shift into the proper gear for the load on the engine and so on and so on. Anytime an aftermarket electronic device is attached to the communications line there will be some form of unwanted side effect. I put an auto start on my 05 Avalanche; the thing works great; except when I’ve left the truck in 4 wheel drive and then use the auto start. For some unknown reason this will shut down my traction and stability controls and turn on the instrument cluster’s warning lights. I have to shut the truck down and then restart with the ignition key to bring these things back on line? Like I said there’s always some form of trade off. Some are no big deal; but others may have your mechanic scratching his head trying to figure out why whatever is doing whatever wrong. Like with the Avalanche what does an auto start have to do with traction control; by rights nothing but it has done this since the day it was installed??? Dan.

Just an idea if you did want to cover the tee handle; is this stuff from Loctite. It’s a liquid rubber compound that when it dries, sticks like baby crap to a blanket. It comes in different colours (the rubber not the crap); red would make it very visible, lying out in the snow. Dan.

I never had any problems going through weeds; with the angle of the lower unit, the weeds sort of slid off more so then wrap around the skag. The prop blades are also shaped in more of a spiral then a paddle of regular props; kind of like a food processor’s blade (I know poor comparison all I could think off) and chopped up the weed pretty good. As for shaking this is a two cylinder motor, which is much more balanced then a one lung; the 2 stroke head shake wasn’t too bad at all. Sold the boat a few months back to a member here on the board; talking about the old rig, brings back a lot of good memories. Dan.

I had a 1972 weedless 3hp Johnson on my 16 foot Starcraft, as a kicker motor; at wide open it would push the boat 6-8 miles an hour. These motors were nicknamed “dock bashers”; direct drive no gear selection or neutral, start it and off you’d go; to back up you spun the motor 180 degrees. Dan.

I would try and hook up with someone that has done some rigging and go out with them or you take them out in your boat. Once the basics are learnt; it’ll be like any other type of fishing and you’ll put your own twist on things. This next bit is just a safety caution while rigging. But when you start buying spoons, releases and other rigging equipment; I would suggest the first thing in the boat, should be a good pair of cable cutters. Something that you know will cut the cannon ball cable with ease and is always right there handy. Trolling at 1-3 miles an hour, cannon ball down 60-70 feet and the ball gets snagged on something; you don’t have a lot of time to fool around before the rigger gets ripped off the side of the boat or possibly sinks you. There is a cable spool drag setting on the rigger but if you’re at the end of your cable and are still moving, cut the cable. Cannon balls & replacement cables are cheep compared to the alternative. The guy that taught me was maybe (no he was) a bit paranoid but he had a pair of side cutters bungee cord tied to the riggers; that’s so there never was any doubt where they were. But it’ll scare the crap out of you trolling along and all of a sudden there a 40 foot high shoal that comes out of nowhere and the cannon ball is 10 or 20 feet below its ridge. Believe me you’ll be all thumbs, while trying to reach for the motor, rigger up switch and the side cutters all at the same time; not knowing which one first; when in doubt cut the cable. Dan.

I’m not contradicting just asking, is it legal to use in-part or whole a sport fish for bait? Is perch considered a sport fish? I know people use the eyes from perch; but never thought of its legality before. I know I could look it up; but someone here will know. Dan.

Abuse would not be covered by anyone's warrantee, including the manufacturer's new boat warrantee. Dan.

I’m sorry but I think that would be a very bad idea. I don’t know of any technician automotive or marine that likes working on a bushel backset job. You know the ones; customer takes everything and anything apart; usually more then need be and then brings you a bushel full of parts, for you to figure out the mess. There’s a rhyme and reason of how, why and which order things are taken apart; it’s called reassembly. I don’t care who the tech is; if they take it apart, it will go back together much easier and faster; then if someone else takes it apart, even if it’s is a job that they’ve done hundreds of times before. Banks is good; i've seen his work first hand; come to an understanding with him of what you expect when he's done and an approximate cost of the build and then leave him alone until he needs your input. I’d be surprised if you were not satisfied with his work; he’s not cheap but what’s more cost effective, having it done once correctly or twice to get it right? Dan.

Yea me too, 6 or 7 years ago for three years in a row. A few different reasons why we stoped going; but nothing to do with the fishing, it was decent for numbers. PM sent.

This thread has to be an omen; I just talked to Eddie last week about my brother and me wanting to go to his camp this summer; been waiting for my brother’s health to stabilize and it’s now (this summer) or never. I was going to wait until Eddie had confirmed the dates for us and then post a request from everyone that has been for these exact tips and pictures of tackle. Once we’ve received conformation from Eddie; I’ll maybe post again asking about food packing tips; as in what style and size of cooler(s); opinions on using dry ice, does Eddie have refrigeration there, things like that. Thanks guys and keep the pictures coming. Dan.

Rob. I’m in London; I have a fully equipped automotive shop and I’m not open to the public on the weekends. I hate doing bearings myself; (funny eh a mechanic that hates getting grease all over his hands) but if you want we can arrange a time and you’re more then welcome to come in and play. If you’ve never done a bearing service or replacement; no worries I’ll supervise; just don't get any grease on me. Dan.

Fisherman Fisherman Fisherman you are an extremist Sir. I said a weight distribution hitch would transfer SOME weight to the front. I didn’t tell him to jack the back end up like some redneck with their street rod. I do agree that a mini van might have some issues stopping in a panic situation; but a trailer equipped with brakes would quickly rectify that. It would be something to keep in mind when buying new rig. Yes both the hitch and a trailer equipped with surge brakes are a lot more money then standard ones; but still nowhere as much as a replacement tow vehicle would cost. Other then the strain on the drivetrain; I'd go anywhere with that set-up. Dan.

You’ll be working that van but with care it should get you to the ramp ok; my concern would be, will it pull the boat out and up the ramp? Not just power wise; but traction; with all that weight on the rear, will the front drive wheels have enough weight on them not to just spin out easily? I guess if it does turn into an issue, you could install a weight distribution hitch. That would transfer some of the weight back onto the front of the vehicle. Dan.

Here’s a wiring diagram that may help you sort this out; not the clearest but you should be able to read it. The fan speed switch & the resistor on this vehicle are grounding circuits. An easy test is to connect a test light to battery positive and probe the wire connector at the resistor; with the resistor disconnected. Using the wiring diagram put the switch speed to the corresponding connector terminal of the resistor and the test light should light. For example. Switch set to low speed; test light probe to terminal 1, the tan wire of the resistor connector; the light should light. Do this for all speeds. If the test light lights for all speeds then you know the speed selector switch is ok. If you want to try a quick test for the motor itself; take a jumper wire from ground and then to terminal 4 the black/tan wire at the resistor. Turn the ignition to the run position and if all is good the motor should run at high speed. So if the switch checks out and the motor will run with the jumper wire; the resistor has packed in again. I had one customer’s vehicle take two resistors out with in 6 months; found that the blower motor (even though it seemed to run fine) was at fault due to it drawing to much amperage and burning out the resistor’s clamping diode. Let me know if I’ve lost you with the testing and I’ll try to explain again or go further as in testing the power side of the circuit and the blower motor relay. Dan. Oh man you guys are fast I sent this without checking the thread and here I am repeating everything you guys have already said. Sorry.

If by chance you’re referring to the length of time that the MTO safety certificate is valid for; you might find that you’re mistaken. A safety inspection or its certificate is NOT a form of warrantee; it only states that on the day of inspection the vehicle conformed to the Ministries MINIMUM safety requirements. The safety certificate is valid for vehicle ownership transfer for the 36 days, from the date the certificate was issued but that is all that it means. It doesn’t even mean that the vehicle would pass a second inspection before the end of the 36 days. If this tire was not visibly low with air on the day of inspection and there were no obvious problems with the tire (nail in, gash or worn out) then it passed the inspection. Your check engine light has nothing to do with a safety inspection; again if the 36 day is what you were referring to . Even for an emissions test, with the way the MOE regulations are right now, a vehicle can be tested with the check engine light on. With the code you gave us the car would still likely pass the actual ASM (Dyno) test. I’m not defending these guys who sold you the car; just trying to inform you that legally they may not have done anything wrong; ethically is possibly a different story? Dan.

Yea I want to keep the roof functional as to make it more compact for towing down the road and keep everything sealed inside when the roof was locked down. If I were to build permanent walls they’d have to be much stronger (heavier) to withstand the 100klm winds of driving down the 401. I’ve also seen the drop axle trailers and yea they’re pretty neat; but isn’t there a width restriction for axle; something light 8 feet? If so the wheels (being approx 2 feet wide combined) would take away from the floor width of the trailer. If the wheels were build in-board of the walls, they would have to retract into the useable space inside the hut. I guess they could be boxed in and sub for seats; but again taking up a lot a valuable room? Thanks for the offer Skipper; but I think with my mig, tig, stick welders and plasma cutter, along with the rest of my shop’s equipment; I’ll be good to go, if I decide to attempt this. Tell you what though, if I do build it; there will be a standing invite to road/fish test it. I’m just kicking this idea around and wanted to hear of any strong opinions as to why it wouldn’t be a functional portable fish hut? Dan.

Need your thoughts on whether this would be worth while trying and or has anyone seen one. I can get my hands on a14 foot (possibly a 16’ I didn’t measure it?) hardtop crank-up tent trailer; what would it be like converted into a fish hut on wheels? By converted I mean loose the slide-out bed areas front & rear and replace the canvas with some form of light weight solid walls. The walls would be hinged to the body of the trailer; with the roof cranked up, you’d swing the walls up from horizontal to vertical to meet the roof and then latched in place. Gut out all of the non-essentials (fridge being one), leaving whatever would be functional for a fish hut. The thing is relatively low to the ground with its 12 or 13 inch balloon tires; so a 5 gallon pail with the bottom cut out should be more then enough to reach the ice. It still has a functioning Coleman propane furnace that will work with or without the 12V battery operated fan; along with a three burner cook stove that can be used inside or outside of the trailer. All I’m thinking is, it would be portable on the roads and on the ice and have the advantages of a seasonal wooden hut, as in being inside a solid shelter with your feet off the ice. If need be I could fabricate some form of drive-on ski that could be lashed to the tires and frame of the trailer; that’s if I find it drags easier then rolls on snow covered ice. I know I wouldn’t be out breaking new trails on some back lake with this thing; but neither would a wooden seasonal hut. Your thoughts (pros and cons) before I possibly begin this project. Dan.

It’s not to often you get an actual mechanic doing the oil changes at places like CTC or the dealerships. They have kids or want-too-be Techs working for minimum wage in the lube rack. You know the type of guy; he can fix anything and do it cheaper, while he’s sitting on a bar room stool. I run an independent shop and yea I’ve heard all the horror stories about CTC; but guys don’t always blame the Technicians. They’re only following the rules set out by the service advisors and the service manager; that’s to produce or find a new place to work. I had a good friend of mine work there for about a month; he was told if anything might require servicing, he was to inform his advisor. He would hand in his work sheet with notes of things like brakes 30% remaining; small amount of play found in this or that; the vehicle could use this and so on. The advisor (most times they are not a Tech but a sales person) takes over and tries to sell the jobs, using whatever tactic they have in their arsenal. Things like that 30% of remaining brakes are now completely shot and are dangerous; scare the customer into the repair. I can’t count how many ways that tactic is wrong; but they do it all the time and when caught with their pants around their ankles, they blame the Tech. There has always been a big turn over of Technical staff at CTC; not to many of us professional Technicians can stomach it for to long. Dan.

I would definitely call the cops & animal control; dogs regardless of what or who they attack, are only allowed 2 recorded bites,(London bylaw?) before they must be put down. Plus if the owner of the attacking dog cannot provide proof of vaccination shots; the dog will also have to be put in quarantine for X number of days/weeks, along with a fine for the owner. Get this one recorded by the officials; it’ll give the dog’s owner a bit of a smack up side the head for be so irresponsible. You never know maybe this isn’t its first attack and you’ll be saving someone else’s dog or possible a Child? Hope for a speedy recovery. Dan.

For windows and doors, I suggest going to an RV/house trailer style; the windows crank open and the doors are insulated, all made from lightweight aluminum. Most of the larger RV dealers have some form of scrap yard; that these should be easily found and at a good price. I just googled RV salvage parts and got all kinds of hits for places. Why I said doors (plural) is that putting a door at both ends of the hut makes life so much easier; when it’s filled to capacity. We’ve all likely been there; the guy that always seems the need to get out, is sitting the farthest from the door. Plus with your design of the centre LARGE hole; somebody’s going swimming, as they’re tiptoeing around lines and poles to get out. Dan.

What would angle iron be like mounted to the wood runners, so that the V portion was facing down onto the ice work like? All I’m thinking is that these heavy wooden huts even with a 4” wide runner; rarely stay on top of the snow; but plow down through onto the ice. So why not use an angle iron to have the least amount of width being dragged; picture it as being more of a skate’s blade then a wide ski? Just thinking out loud. Dan.

This is all summed up in one or two statements. HAPPY WIFE = HAPPY LIFE! We mere mortals will really never understand and the whys will be never ending. Dan.

I’ve had mixed results with kijiji; found my 50 Chevy there and I’ve sold a number of smaller items (used automotive parts mostly); but bigger ticket items, I’ve stopped posting. Items that still actually have most of their value are hard to sell there because (I think) most people checking kijiji adds are looking for that super deal; in other words cheap. If you’re not willing to sell at about half the items true value; you’re wasting your time with the bargain hunters. Dan.

I try and take my 2 employees and their guest/spouse out for a Christmas meal, a few drinks and a show. The one guy that’s married; he and his wife really seem to enjoy the night. The single guy shows up and you can tell there’s somewhere else he’d rather be. So for me the success of these Xmas functions, really depends on the individual’s social skills and wanting to make or break the night for them selves? Last year I told the guys that my wife and I are going to be at such & such restaurant, at this time and date, you’re more then welcome; I’m buying. The single guy didn’t show, which was fine by me (it cost me less) and we had a great time without a clock watcher, waiting for his chance to dash. With that being said, the single guy is a good worker with a great attitude. He likely has enough of me during business hours; me being 30 years his senior and a different outlook as to what is fun? I can’t blame him for that either; a single 24 year old guy with no commitments; hum let me think here, go and sit with the boss or go to the clubs and do some trolling; hands down I loose and the more power to him. Dan.

To help keep the snow off, we ran 1/8” soft rope (almost like shoe lace but stronger) from the ridge pole down to the top side wall poles. Running the rope in kind of a zigzag pattern; that held the tarp from sagging between the joist poles and creating pockets for the snow to sit. Another thing we did was to wash the roof tarp as best we could with soap & water and then spray it with a silicone/teflon automotive spray wax. Bought a gallon jug of the stuff and used a weed sprayer to apply it. This sealed the tarp even more so, made it smoother and slippery; slightest bit of wind and the snow just slid off all on its own. Dan.