DanD

Home depot 3" X 10' is $17.22. https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.pvc-3-inches-x-10-ft-solid-sewer-pipe---ecolotubesupsup.1000659635.html Dan.

Is it the one I linked to, in the 3rd post of this thread? If so I was wondering how well it worked. Dan.

I make a rod case out of 3" PVC pipe; one end cap and one threaded cap; that I got at home depot. Glued it together put the rod(s) in and then dumped a bunch of shipping popcorn into the tube. Had Purolator courier it for me to my destination. Made it out of PVC rather then cardboard tubing, for the fact I didn't know how rough the purolator handlers were going to be. Dan.

Maybe give this portable fuel filter funnel a try? http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/flotool-portable-fuel-filter-0283145p.html?cid=KWGoogle_Eclipse_DSA&gclid=CjwKEAjwgtTJBRDRmd6ZtLrGyxwSJAA7Fy-hEgbh5ueBZa_NHSDXrDksr91vmY6ygygQ3iWGjRcSGxoCaWTw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CIzzkt7Pp9QCFU-MaQodnIUARw This vid shows that it works; how well who knows? Dan.

Don't burn any bridges, find another job and give notice. You're only working part-time; so you should have lots of time to find something? Not always true: there are good and bad employers and employees. A good working environment, comes from both sides showing respect for each-other. My newest employee was hired 15 years ago, my other guy has been with me for at least 25 years. That doesn't happen, unless we all take the good with the bad and work through disagreements. Dan.

Not all antiques are worn out or can't be brought back to life. Hears my proof of that. 67 year old Chevy, proudly sitting 8 hours North of home. The old girl loved very mile it took too get us to the fishing camp and back home. Dan.

Two weeks ago, coming back from Gilford; the OPP were doing seat belt checks. They were hiding half way around the on-ramp to the 407, coming off of the 400? I thought for sure there was going to be a pile up; there had to be 50+ cars backed up onto the 400. IMO they were 100X more of a traffic hazard then anyone not wearing a seat belt. Dan.

Nice vid. I like watching you and your son's adventures. Reminds me so much of the times we had, when my son was that age. My son is 28 now and filled with his life; but we still find time to do stuff together. Good going Simon you're building a happy future. Dan

Is the play back slowed down or is that in real time? Regardless great vid! Dan.

I also use a dry brine, made up of 2/3 dark brown sugar, 1/3 salt. The amount of each depends on how much meat you need to cover; but that ratio works well, not to salty or to sweat. Do not use table (iodized) salt; either Kosher or rock salt. My other spices are usually garlic (freshly minced or unsalted powder), lemon pepper, black pepper or cayenne and a splash of soya sauce; just enough to bind all the ingredients. Adjust the amounts to the size of the batch and your taste. Give the fillets a good wash in cold water and pat dry. I usually scale the fish, rather then skinning; I think the meat stays much more moist? Generously cover the fillets on all sides with the brine mixture. Put the fillets in a non-metallic container, cove and put into the fridge for 24 -36 hours. Draining off the liquid that has formed and redistribute the brine, over the fillets where needed. Using a metal container (stainless or not) may give the fish a tinny flavor. After the brine has done its job, rinse the fillets in cold water. I then soak the fillets in cold water for a couple of hours; changing the water numerous times; this will pull more of the salt out. Pat dry the fillets, sprinkle with a bit more lemon pepper and allow to dry in a cool area until the fillets become tacky to the touch. I usual turn a fan on to blow over the fillets to speed this process up. In the drip/water tray I fill it with either lemon or orange juice; adds moisture and flavor. Preheat the smoker to approx 175° - 185° and get the smoke rolling. I use a remote thermometer and place the probe into the center of the thickest fillet. Place the racks in the smoker, close the door and leave it alone. Every time you open the door to have a peek; you loose your smoke and heat. About half way through, I may give the fillets a mist of orange or lemon juice and top up the wood chips if needed. If whatever you're smoking gets a good wack of smoke for the first hour, hour and half; the meat won't take on a whole lot more smoke flavor after that. So if you're not seeing smoke for the last hour or so; don't worry about it. When the internal temp hits around 165° the fillets are done. Now if you taste the fish right out of the smoker, it may taste like a lump of coal, don't worry or get pissed at your work. Let the fillets cool to room temp, then wrap them and put them in the fridge over night. The flavors will blend and dissipate and it'll be great. If you want to serve the fish warm, the next day; I steam them in a double broiler. About 2 inches of water and juice mixture; bring that up to a light steam and then put the fish in the upper half and warm to taste. Sorry for the long post. Dan.

I agree with the Honda's. Just make sure its under lock and key, when not in use; they disappear quickly. I've had 2 stolen now, one was locked inside a cargo trailer and the other left when my truck was stolen. Dan.

Most years I'm fighting them at my trailer. I knock the nest down, come back the next weekend and its been rebuilt. Last year instead of knocking the nest down I left it up; but I popped 3 or 4 mothballs in the nest. The birds gave up and went elsewhere, coincidence I'm not sure? Dan.

Take the fuel line off from the inlet side of the primer bulb and try blowing air back into the tank. It shouldn't take much effort to blow a steady stream of air through the line and get bubbles in the tank. Dan.

Fuel tank vent clogged, not allowing air in tank? Try running motor with gas cap removed. The fuel pick-up line inside the tank, clogged or collapsed; not allowing fuel to pass? The motor's fuel pump must be working because it's sucking the primer bulb down. Dan.

Yes the exterior vent; disconnect the hose to the vent and attach the smoke nozzle to the hose. Yes again, this is just an inert vapor made up of nitrogen gas; it will not hurt anything. It would be best to test the system with a small amount of gasoline in the tank; more room for the smoke to find a way out and show you if there's a leak. A lot of automotive shops now have these smoke machines. Dan.

See if any of the local garages have an EVAP test machine AKA a smoke machine. If the boat were here, I'd attach the smoke nozzle to the fuel tank's vent tube and then start pumping smoke into the fuel system. Stand back and watch for smoke; the machine produces what looks like theatrical smoke. It also has a gauge that shows you the amount of leakage, if there is any. This machine is rated to detect a pinhole as small as .010". We also use an inert gas to supply the 2-3 psi of pressure into the system, so there's no chance of explosion or excessive pressure to hurt anything. Like I said hit up the locale shops; if there's vapor leaking from somewhere it shouldn't be this machine will show you it. Here's a demo vid for a Snap On machine; close to what I have here in the shop. Dan.

Have you checked whether any of the wheel cylinders are seized? Have you bled the system checking for air? Is there good fluid transfer from the master cylinder to the wheel cylinders? A drum system working properly, shouldn't have any issues stopping your trailer. Titan does sell a disc brake kit that runs about $125.00 a wheel. (USD?) https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brakes/Titan/T4843000.html That doesn't include the brake flex lines (if needed?) and you'll need to reroute the steel lines to the flex or the calipers. Possibly some fabrication for things like the flex line hold down brackets. You would also need a different master cylinder; drum and disc master have different flow rates. Titan does sell disc masters; but whether it will fit in your drum actuator, I'm not sure. They also sell complete actuators for disc brake. Have a look around on E trailer and you should be able to piece together a price for all that's required to convert to disc. But it will all still need installing (properly) and the system bled. Don't know where you're from but I'd be happy to help you out with this; that's after my spring rush is over with here at the shop. Dan.

Are you from Mexican decent? LOL They actually do look handy. Dan.

There's usually some form of drain plug or screw on the float bowl of the carb. By removing the plug or loosening this screw, will tell you whether there's fuel getting into the carb. With the info I had, I googled 8 hp Nissan and got this pic. If this looks like your carb the drain screw is the one circled? Once loosened or removed you should see fuel dribbling from the bowl; if not try pumping the fuel prime bulb. If the bulb becomes hard and there's still no fuel dribbling; try tapping the carb's fuel bowl with a screwdriver handle. Don't beat the crap out of it; but a number of solid smacks. If the float or the needle is stuck; the pressure from the prime bulb and you hitting the bowl may knock it loose and allow the fuel to enter the carb? There also a chance that the pulse fuel pump is clogged, due to the rubber diaphragms becoming rotted and coming apart. The fuel pump is the square bit on the side of the carb. Four screws a couple of diaphragms and a spring is all that's in there nothing magical about it. Give this a try and let us know what you find? Dan.

If the charger is the issue, there's not much you can do other then replace it. There is a chance an electronics repair shop could repair it; but you'd have to weight out the costs. Trolling motor's variable speed rheostat, may not be shutting down completely? Again replace or repair after comparing costs. Or do as Tom S suggested; install a battery switch. Art. You had to mention Lucas ignition; those opti-spark joke of electronic module triggers; where a nightmare system to figure out. When you did get the system to actually make a spark; the guy in the next bay would spill his coffee and that was enough moisture to shut the car off again. LOL Dan

X2 Cliff. As busy as life is for my son, working at GM corporate as an engineer; we still get away for a week fishing up North. That week just flies by; him an I out on the water, gabbing about anything and everything; catching a fish is just a bonus. He and his wife announced a little while back, that I'm going to be a grandpa soon! So if all goes well, there will be three of us in the boat; in a few years. Dan.

Art. You want a job trouble shooting electrical issue at my shop? LOL Dan.

The best would be to disconnect the battery positive connection(s) to the devices they are powering and then connect an ammeter between the battery positive terminal and the cables that were just disconnected. That will tell you whether there is any parasitic draw on the battery. Any more then .025 amp draw will kill any battery or batteries in a few days. If you do find excessive draw, then one item at a time disconnect it from the battery; until you see the draw drop to well below the .025 amp or drop to zero draw. If there is no draw found, have both batteries tested independently; there is a small change that one of the batteries has an internal short and drawing both batteries down. Dan.

Nice. I've worked on quite a lot of these and they're not a bad vehicle. There is one thing you need to have checked with every oil change. The rear upper spindle bushings; they are famous for failing. It isn't a real safety issue (unless left way to long); but they'll chew up the rear tires, if the vehicle is driven any length of time with a worn out bushing. Here's a couple of diagrams showing the bushings I'm talking about. There's one on each side on the rear. Enjoy your new ride. Dan.