carp-starter

Thank you for the info on the R2 Panasonic batteries. I am a bit hesitant with batteries. About a year ago I bought quick charge Panasonic batteries from Henrys. Cost was around 50 bucks with a charger but a small bag to hold spare batteries came for free. The batteries never held their charge. The most number of PICS I ever got was 2. I took a look for batteries on Henrys web site and this is what I found. http://www.henrys.com/webapp/wcs/stores/se...p;storeId=10001 Are these the batteries you guys are talking about? With a $20 off and at a cost of $39.99, it might be the time to buy a set. I received an eNewsletter from Henrys and these batteries might be at $30.00 off because of the “Lucky Monday Lunchtime Deals”, valid online at www.henrys.com only from 11:00 AM E.S.T until 3:00 PM E.S.T. on Mondays only. What determines if a charge is a quick charge or not – batteries or charger? If I buy a package that is a quick charge package, can I use a standard charger with these batteries? I think that it is the charger that determines the charge times. I guess what I am asking is – can batteries be charged with a standard charger or with a quick charge charger. Thank you – carp-starter

I do not know if the web site below is what you are looking for. I am looking on my computer for more WORLD RECORD complaints but I have not been able to find anything else. http://stripers247.com/Almcreynoldsrecordstriper.php carp-starter PS- this is the reason why I am re-organizing my BOOKMARKS on Firefox. It is taking a long time.

Good idea. Thanks for the reminder. Here in Oakville, we will go down to -18degrees C on Thursday morning. I guess I will warm the car up at mid-night by going out to buy cigs. Yesterday afternoon I pulled out a partially filled bottle (1/4 left) of windshield wiper fluid and found that it was all slush. I thought the stuff was good to -40C. "Downsizing" I guess. carp-starter

I have thought about a new OFC category for some time because of what I have seen and read on OFC Community. Just in the last 3 or 4 days, there have been more than a few threads that have been posted in the “General Discussion” on OFC. It would have been more appropriate to have put these thread in this new special category where people could share their thoughts, give support and post their special requests. About 3 weeks ago on South East Fly Fishing Forum, I saw for the first time what they had and they had what I have been thinking about. I check out South East only because of their fly tying category and so I did not know about this one category that they had. Below is the URL of the index for the South East Fly Fishing Forum and the 2nd URL is the category that OFC should have. I think that there is a need for the category. The creation of such a category will depend on Admin and the other members of the OFC Community. I believe that the category is self explanatory as to what it is for. Thank you – carp-starter Main Index Page http://www.southeastflyfishingforum.com/forum/ The Land of Healing Waters http://www.southeastflyfishingforum.com/fo...waters-f56.html Do we need such category? Opinions????

Bye, bye sweden - it is now 5 to 1 - maybe we can score 1 more??? carp-starter FINAL

That is it for yappie Sweden with less than 1 minute left - 4 to 1. arp-starter

I have posted before the info below - so I will just copy & paste. I hope the urls are still on the Web. carp-starter SOME ASSUMPTIONS I am assuming that the leader that you buy will already have a loop at the butt end and that the 3 sections (butt, middle section and tippet end) of the leader are all in sync or balanced with each other. Some leaders do not come with a loop. The leader that you bought, is probably one piece – at 7 ½’, 9’ or 12’. Leaders also come pre-tied – same lengths.. I tie my own. A leader is has 3 sections to it – the butt, the middle section and the tippet end. Spools of tippet material is nothing more than fishing line. When the tippet on the leader you have been using is shortened because of various reasons, you must increase the length of the original tippet that has been shortened using the appropriate tippet material. Tippet material comes in spools of about 25 yards in – various diameters. INSTRUCTIONS I do not tie my leader directly to my fly line. I connect loop to loop. So, you must make the connector out of mono line. This is what I do. This is what we will have once you finish. ==========!!--------()()________________ == is the fly line !! is the nail knot -------- is the 30 lb mono and you will make a loop at the end ()() are the loops ____ is the leader Get about 12 inches of about 30 lb test mono. Make sure the thickness of your mono is not thicker than the end of your fly line. I have to say this because your fly line may be WF1. Just make sure the mono is thinner. That short piece of 3-4 inches of mono that you end up at the end of the fly line has to be an extension of your fly line – meaning – in sync. Use a nail knot to connect the mono line to the fly line. http://www.animatedknots.com/nailknot/inde...imatedknots.com http://www.killroys.com/knots/nail.htm Use a Surgeon's Loop to tie in a loop in you mono. The length of your mono should end up being between 3 to 4 inches. http://www.killroys.com/knots/surgloop.htm Now use the loop to loop connection and connect the leader your mono. Make sure you do it right cause there is a way of screwing it up. http://www.killroys.com/knots/looploop.htm SOME FACTS You attach the complete leader. I tie and sometimes use 24-foot leaders. A leader is never described in terms “of pound test”. A leader – both butt and tippet – is always described in terms of “diameter”. The diameter is described by the X designation. This means that ALL 5X tippets will have a diameter of .006. A standard 5x tippet is around 4 lb test. But, 5X tippets can be less or more than 4 lb test. If you tie your own leaders, each section that you tie is of a certain diameter – not of a certain pound test. A leader must be “balanced” – the butt VS middle sections VS tippet must be in sync. If the butt is .017, then the tippet should be 4X – 8X. The middle section must be tapered properly with respect to both ends. If the butt is .021, then the tippet should be 0X – 5X. The tippet must be balanced within itself from the butt to the tippet end. At the end you should have the fly line, leader, tippet and fly all balanced. Of course everything has to be balanced to your fly rod. The relationship is shown in the site below. http://www.killroys.com/charts/flyline.htm

Maybe you are correct and if you are, I will not see the Leafs win their next cup. We would have a better chance of winning if we had instead a team of women playing - just like that cute little angel - a team in PINK instead of BLUE. 1967 The second coming of Jesus is more probable than having the Leafs win the Stanley Cup. carp-starter - Happy New Year

No, we here in Bronte did not lose our power. We very, very seldom lose our power. We had no power last year and I do not know why because it was a nice calm cloudy day. I think the previous time was when most of Canada and USA had no power because of an Ohio power plant screw-up. But we came back on very quickly. I know how you feel Woodsman about the water in your basement. My basement got flooded about 19 years ago when my sump pump went dead. We came back on Xmas day at about 10:00PM and found our basement flooded. Today at 8:30AM I turned the TV on to listen to the news on CNN and found that I had no cable. It finally came back at 4:30PM - about 8 hours. So it was not bad today. In real life, here in Bronte, very seldom do we get the so-called "acts of God" or "man-made" problems. My only fear is my sump pump. Happy New Year everyone - I hope next year there will be "PEACE, ECONOMIC STABILITY, GOOD HEALTH AND PEOPLE THAT YOU LOVE. carp-starter

The rod racks look really nice and it is nice to get 60 bucks off. I think that the racks would be perfect for pool cues. I am sorry for what I will say next because it might be consider to be negative. I have never found a need to put my rods and reels on display. My rods are all in a closet and the closet is never used for anything else. All fly rods are hung in their rod bags in the closet. Every other rod is in a tube or its own cloth bag and in the corner. Fly reels are in their original zippered reel cases. The one baitcaster is in its bag that it came in. All spinning reels are in old socks. All reels are stored in bins. There are a number of reasons for doing all of this. Protecting everything from "people damage" is reason number 1. Reason number 2 is to keep everything from sunlight especially the reels that are spooled with mono. And reason number 3 is to try to protect everything from DUST. To me, dust is like very, very fine sand. Dust will get into every little corner in a reel. And it is known what sand can do to a reel. MAYBE I AM WRONG BUT I WILL FIND OUT AFTER I POST THIS. The above is my way of doing it and it is my opinion only. carp-starter

The narrative below is not my creation. The author is Coulee fishin who started a thread on a fly tying forums site that I belong to. I am posting it because it was and is humourous. carp-starter To my Liberal friends, Please accept with no obligation, implied or implicit, my best wishes for an environmentally conscious, socially responsible, low-stress, non-addictive, gender-neutral celebration of the winter solstice holiday, practiced within the most enjoyable traditions of the religious persuasion of your choice, or secular practices of your choice, with respect for the religious/secular persuasion and/or traditions of others, or their choice not to practice religious or secular traditions at all. I also wish you a fiscally successful, personally fulfilling and medically uncomplicated recognition of the onset of the generally accepted calendar year 2008, but not without due respect for the calendars of choice of other cultures whose contributions to society have helped make America great. Not to imply that America is necessarily greater than any other country nor the only America in the Western Hemisphere. Also, this wish is made without regard to the race, creed, color, age, physical ability, religious faith or sexual preference of the wishee. By accepting these greetings, you are accepting the aforementioned terms as stated. This greeting is not subject to clarification or withdrawal. It is freely transferable with no alteration to the original greeting. It implies no promise by the wisher to actually implement any of the wishes for herself/himself/others, and is void where prohibited by law and is revocable at the sole discretion of the wisher. This wish is warranted to perform as expected within the usual application of good tidings for a period of one year or until the issuance of a subsequent holiday greeting, whichever comes first, and warranty is limited to replacement of this wish or issuance of a new wish at the sole discretion of the wisher. For My Conservative Friends: Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

The time right now is 10:42am and the numbers have gone up. 128 guests, 72 members, 0 anonymous members Lurker or not means nothing to me but maybe "total members" does to forums sites. I do not know. You know how some of the members are - they like to post worthless posts just to increase the totals for the number of posts they have posted. Or maybe nothing better to do? What I would like to know and ask is - DOES ANY ONE WORK? I mean, it is now 10:48am. Or, are some at work and playing on company time? 200 people online is a high number. Thank you - carp-starter the totals are now up again - 128 guests, 75 members, 0 anonymous members

Here are some articles and PICS that I have kept over the years. Carp-starter http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0BQ...2_5/ai_61555402 http://www.cbc.ca/canada/saskatchewan/stor...cormorants.html http://www.blueheronco.com/jrs/cormorants.htm http://www.ofah.org/Cormorants/News.cfm?A=Grab&DocID=16 http://www.ofncommunity.com/forums/index.p...mp;hl=cormorant from April 2007 http://forums.quintefishing.com/phpBB2/vie...11f73fa9d58ac7c TRYING TO STOP A CULL http://www.dailymail.co.uk/pages/live/arti...in_page_id=1770 Danbo’s PIC is here and other pics – swallowing a pike http://network.bestfriends.org/canada/news/2493.html and besides destroying the fish populations...what goes in must come out and pollute the water http://www.fishingnj.org/artcormorant.htm

I have Vista. I also cannot update AVG – started to happen about 7-9 days ago. After the update attempt, I get “Update failed. Invalid Update Control CTF File” Under “Update Manager” in Overview, I get the same message. And for Anti-Virus, Anti-spyware, it tells me – “Database is outdated”. I found a solution at http://www.winhelponline.com/blog/error-in...-anti-virus-80/ It tells me to delete 2 “.CTF” files. I did a search and I could not find any “.CTF” or “CTF” values. carp-starter

I am not on board with the "just a commercial break". I do not have any friends, family and clients directly who are affected - which in turn does not affect me. This commercial break will not be the first one to help GM (Canada) and the employees. We have had many. I think the Ontario government gave GM about 600 million about a year ago. And guess what happened - GM laid off employees within 1 or 2 months later. Not too long ago, Oshawa Mayor John Gray stated "Probably by 2012 they'll [GM] have the products that are really going to help them get through to the new economy, as far as [the] automotive [industry] is concerned. But we've got to get them there first." I think that Mayor John Gray does not have all his marbles. My question to the mayor is - what will GM do until 2012 - keep making the same vehicles that they have been building? What GM is making, is not selling - http://www.cbc.ca/money/story/2008/11/07/gmquarter.html. So, now the question is - what will the workers be doing? If GM until 2012, keeps on making vehicles that are not selling, I suppose the workers would be very happy to keep on making crap cars - they do not care as long as they work. The workers have said many times that the vehicles they build are of the highest quality in North America. This may be correct according to the employees. But let me define what a "crap car" is. "If a vehicle is meant to be sold but cannot be sold, then the vehicle is a crap car". Who cares if the quality is the best in the universe - the car must be sold. Or will the workers do something else. It might be a lot cheaper to have GM close the plants until they are ready by 2012. I do not know what GM and the employes will do until 2012 but I do know what I will be doing. I will be paying through my nose - GM and the employees - for the years of 2009, 2010 and 2011. I never had any children. Why is it that many think that I should support BIG BABIES. And when we finally get to the year 2012, the consummer will say - "GM, GM WHO". Remember what Mayor John Gray had stated - "probably by 2012" (above). I do not like that word - PROBABLY. What it means to me - maybe yes, maybe no. And if it is NO, then I guess we will have another set of bailouts. At some point we have to accept our losses and just bury GM. Read my lips - "I am tired supporting healthy and able individuals". I will say it again - carp-starter

Marcus A warning first – this post will be a post of negatives. 1 – Instead of weight 7 line, I would suggest that for steelhead and salmon, a 8 weight line would be better. Seven weight is OK for steelhead but 8 is better for salmon. I think that an 8 weight line would be better for bass fishing. 2 – I would never buy that White River Fly Shop™ Classic Travel Fly Rod. I guess the main reason is simply because it is BPS’ brand. It is said that Temple Fork Outfitters fly rods are good and at a very good price. There is one – 9’, 8 weight line, 4 pieces. Store brand tackle is usually not as good as brand name tackle. 3 – I would never spend more on a reel than on a rod. Remember what I had stated in my previous post – the major reason for a fly reel is to hold the fly line. 4. Get a reasonably good fly line. You will not be able to cast well with a poor and cheap line. SA Ultra 4 or Courtland fly lines are OK. Right now, Le Baron is selling the SA line at a 2009 special price of $33.00. Last year, they were selling it for around $44.00. And a fly shop here in Oakville was selling it for around $60.00. 5. How important is the drag system on that Orvis fly reel? I do not know. I do not fly fish for steelhead/salmon. I do not fish for salmon and for steelhead, I use a 5 ½ foot ultra light with 4lb test line. Some other people here would be more knowledgeable to tell you as to how important a high tech drag system is. 6. People here have said that Orvis are good reels. I suppose they are but I beg to differ. I have 1 Orvis Battenkill fly reel. When I bought it, I think it was made by Hardy. The Battemkill looks very similar to the lightweight Hardy’s. But the quality was simply not there – relative to the Hardy. One example is that the Battenkill has scratches but none of the Hardys have scratches. I am not trying to put Orvis down because all my fly rods are from Orvis. Whatever else I have in fly fishing is probably from Orvis. It is just that I would not buy their fly reels nor fly lines. 6. “Is it worth the extra money compared to other Orvis reels?” I have checked all 3 Orvis models and I would not buy the reel you want to get just because it retrieves line 1½ faster than the BMA III or 3 times faster than the BBS III. BUT, if you decide to get the 8 weight line (and you should), you will not have a problem because the BBL III is for only lines 5-7 and there are none larger. The BMA IV will hold a line 8 but the reel is heavy at 6.1 oz. The BBS IV is only 4.5 oz. The 3 Orvis reels use different materials – but I do not know if this fact is significant. The BLA reel is probably is also more fancy – bells and whistles. My answer is that I would not buy the BLA over the BBS or BMA. BUT I AM WONDERING IF THE BBS WOULD BE ABLE TO PERFORM IF YOU HOOK A 20LB SALMON THAT RUNS DOWNSTREAM. Or will it burn itself out? I agree with Danbo’s 2 suggestions except for the fact that Pflueger and Okuma reels weigh a ton because of the ball bearings – 7 oz for a line 5/6 reel?????. I quickly looked at Albright reels and they also are HEAVY. If I were you, I would spend more time investigating during the winter. As far as I am concerned, WHY RUSH TO BUY. There will be a lot of things to do in Mexico. Carp-starter

Marcus, before you start deciding as to which reel to buy, you must ask a number of questions first. I think I will ask you a number of questions. All I know is that you are 14 years old – if your profile is correct. Are you looking to buy the - Battenkill Large Arbor Trout Reel at Orvis? The precise model is – “$198.00 BLA III Fly Reel: (4.4 oz, 3 5⁄8" diameter, for line weights 5-7)”. Otherwise, you and I may be talking “apples and oranges”. What do you have right now – besides wanting to buy a fly reel for a line weight of 7? Do you have a fly rod, fly reel and fly line? Or are you just investigating and have NOTHING? I hope you have nothing so far. . People who want to start fly fishing must ask 3 questions first before they buy the rod, reel and fly line. Since you want to buy a reel for a 7 weight fly line, these 3 questions must also be answered so that you could buy the correct fly reel. The 3 questions are – what species of fish, how large is the water and what size flies will be used. And now for some facts you should be aware of. The purpose of a fly reel is to just hold the fly line – no more, no less – just something to store your line when you are not fishing. If you are going to fish for steelhead or salmon, then you would also need is a good drag because these fish will “RUN”. But, most of the time you will hold your fly line in your hands or just leave it in front of you in the water - floating. So who cares how much line you can retrieve in 1 evolution. The most important thing in a fly reel (besides that it is big enough to hold your fly line) is that it is balanced with your fly rod. If the 2 are not balanced, I will be sorry for you because you will be tired at the end of the day and the day will not be as enjoyable as it should be. Today, many reels have a high tech drag system. If you are fishing for salmon or steelhead, a good drag would be helpful. Otherwise, who cares. All my fly reels have that “click, click” drag – it is the most basic of drags systems – but I do not fly fish for steelhead or salmon. Even if you fish for large bass, you do not need a high tech drag system because the bass will go down into the weeds – most bass will not run any distances. Instead, for such bass, you better have a stiff rod to be able to pull the bass out of the weed. Having all off the fancy stuff on the reel adds weight to the reel. I hope I have given you some good info for you to think about. You must ask certain questions and get a get answers and after you will be better prepared to buy what you want or need. As a beginner, you do not have to spend over $200.00CAD for a reel. And do not forget, the objective when you buy something is not to make a mistake otherwise in fly fishing, it will cost you a lot. Carp-starter

Since people are comparing cars, I will inform you all about my old Honda clunker. Date bought – May 1996. This makes it – 12 years and 7 months. Exterior appearance – it looks like brand new and there is NO RUST anywhere. Mileage – 178,500 km or 110,918 miles. What I have done to the car? I have done the standard and normal maintenance like oil changes and etc. Muffler replacement This was replaced in the spring of 2006 – more or less 10 years. Went to Mr. Muffler and I got a figure of $500.00 plus tax. I bet you that the cost would have been higher by the time all was completed. Then I called 3 Honda dealers (Burlington, Oakville and Mississauga) and I got 3 different costs. Since I was not getting anywhere with the dealers on the phone, I went to the one in Oakville. I do not know why but they suggested I go to this small (tiny) place at Dorval and Speers and I was informed they do a good job. So, I did. Their estimated and guaranteed cost was $250.00 plus tax. The funny thing is that the small place did not replace what Mr. Muffler was going to replace. I got 2 small pipes replaced. When done, I asked as to how long the pipes would last because in the past, the pipes did not last many years. I was told that they would last because they are stainless steel pipes. My muffler nor the big tail pipe were not replaced because they both were stainless steel. New battery replacement It was replaced in January 2006 – close to 10 years. It probably would have lasted a bit more but I did not fel like going outside on a very cold night to run the car - at 2:00am. Brakes I had to replace the pads on the front brakes once – I do not know the date. It was done around 100,000 km. My EX used the brakes often because she liked to speed. She would accelerate even though the light at the next intersection was already RED. After having my regular maintenance done, I was informed that I have to replace the pads on the front brakes. The back brakes are still the originals and they are still OK. This is at 178,500 km or 110,918 miles. I would say – “not bad”. New tires I put on new set of tires in April 2008. I would say that this is good. So, I have no reason to get rid of the Honda. I bet you that most American cars would not be able to match my Honda in quality. Or am I wrong – I did say “most American cars?” I am guessing but I believe my Honda will be with me 10 years from today. carp-starter

Below is the address to a thread on "The Classic Fly Rod Forum" where I am a member. There is a discussion about Ford and GM and their problems. There is also a bit of humour when the OP would trade his Dickerson for 1,000 shares of Ford and 1,000 shares of GM. carp-starter Edited and added the following - My last American car bought - GM, Olds Cutlass Supreme - was in 1973 and there is no way that I would buy another American car again.

I heard over the radio this morning that GM (Canada) wants 4 billion dollars NOW and then in January they want another 4 billion. I think that GM is asking too much. In the USA, the big three are asking for 15 to 17 billion. Now do not forget that the population is about 10 times the population of Canada. Canada’s population, I am assuming is about 30 million – includes all even kids who will not be able to pay anything. So based on the above, Canada should give only 1/10 or 1.5 to 1.7 billion for all three. This morning I started to wonder how much it will cost us per person. DO NOT FORGET THAT MONEY DOES NOT COME FROM THE SKY. WE WILL BE THE ONES WHO WILL PAY. So, I did some calculations and this is where I could be wrong. There are so many zeros.. case 1 - Canada population of 30 million – includes kids 4,000,000,000 / 30,000,000 equals - $133.33 per man, woman and child case 2 – if kids not included – I assume the population is 15 million Kids cannot contribute. The parents will have to pay. 4,000,000,000 / 15,000,000 equals – $266.66 The above is required by GM right now. They say that they also will need another 4 billion in January. So, double all of the above in case 1 and 2 to get the cost per person. Do not forget this will not be the first time that GM has needed a bailout. We have had too many in the past. And they will come again and again. At some point, a decision has to be made to stop bailing out GM. It's like with an old car. Do you keep on putting money into your old car to keep it running or do you just go out and get a new car? At some point you have say "that is it" and you stop. Can you afford it? Do not forget that there will be other companies who will be asking for easy money. Can we afford it? I don’t think so. At least I cannot. You guys may have a different opinion. Perhaps I am not seeing everything. What are your opinions? But, I say to GM - carp-starter FYI Ford will come out with a new vehicle in 2010. Guess what it is. It will be a 2010 Ford F-150 SVT Raptor – the basic version will be over 300 hp, huge tires and etc, etc. The next one up will be over 400 hp (I think). These guys do not learn. http://jalopnik.com/5075561/2010-ford-f+15...ptor-first-ride http://www.rsportscars.com/ford/2010-ford-f150-svt-raptor/ http://video.aol.com/video-detail/2010-for...look/1541704977

I think it is a joke but a very serious situation. The commie NDP leader Jack Layton said on TV that there is no confidence in the government. But the problem is that the people did not vote for the Troika that hopes to lead. It is a JOKE. They are all playing games at our expense and our money. It appears that Stéphane Dion will have his 15 minutes of fame. I will never vote again. What do you guys say about the situation??? carp-starter

pete For what you fish for and where, I would say that you will be OK in using your spinning rod/reel only. A baitcaster is good if you want to use heavy lures and as a result, heavier lines. I use my baitcaster only when I am going after pike and I want to use a floating Rebel, 7 inch, 1 oz lure. holdfast One in 10 casts is too many “bird-nests” - I would quit using my baitcaster. Below is what I do to get rid of the problem – 100%. Carp-starter HOW TO AVOID BIRD-NESTS - 100% This is my reel – ABU Garcia Pro Max 3600. To cast a lure, you must first press knob A. On the reel there are 2 drag systems – B and C (star drag). The two drags are independent of each other and they have different functions. Drag C is the same as you would find on a spinning reel on top of the spool. If you tighten C, you will make it more difficult for the fish to pull out more line if he decides to run. If this drag is too loose, the fish will easily run and you will not be able to stop the fish and tire him. Drag B controls the revolution of the spool on a cast. If it is too tight, you will not be able to cast the lure because the spool will not revolve. If it is too loose you will be able to cast the lure but you may get “bird’s nest” - if you do not stop the spool with your thumb. Bird’s nest will happen when the spool keeps on revolving when the lure hits the water or when the lure is coming off the spool while the spool is revolving too fast. Basically, in both cases, the spool is revolving too fast. To prevent “birds nests” you will have to tighten/loosen drag B and at the same time be able to cast your lure. You must adjust drag B. Set up your rod, reel and lure so that the whole thing is ready to cast the lure – hold the rod in front of you. Press A and check what happens to your lure. Does it go down? If it goes down, tighten drag B all the way – this will become the starting point for you. If the lure did not go down, continue with the instructions below. Loosen drag B and loosen it to the point that the lure “just” goes down. Do not loosen B more than needed – just enough for the lure go down. Make sure that A has been pressed with your thumb. This will be the starting point to fine-tuning the drag - by casting a lure. The above setting of B may be just right for the lure you are using (B must be changed and adjusted for every lure). But you may wish to tighten B a touch or loosen B a touch. You will find this out when you cast the lure. Cast first with the B drag as is. If you do not like it, you will have to cast with the B drag loosened or tightened and see what you like best. Make sure that the spool does not keep on revolving when the lure hits the water. When the spool keeps on revolving, you must tighten drag B or with your thumb stop the spool. With my settings, once that lure hits the water, the spool on the reel STOPS revolving. It stops DEAD. I might be able to get a few yards more in my cast if I were to loosen B just a bit or more than just a bit. But then of course my spool would continue to revolve when my lure hits the water. To stop the spool, I would have to apply my thumb to the spool to stop it. The extra yards gained, if any, is not worth the hassle. It is easier to cast a heavier lure than a lighter lure. With my Berkley Series One rod and the ABU Garcia Pro Max 3600 reel, ¾ to 1 oz is the perfect weight. Practice with a floating lure. After I bought my rod/reel, I went over to the park on Lake Ontario to practice using a tandem Musky Killer, one ounce. On my first cast I got bird’s nest. While I tried to untangle the line, the lure sank to the bottom. When I untangled the line so that I could reel in the line, I found that the lure was stuff in the rocks. The result was that I lost a $10.00 (plus taxes of course) lure on my very first cast. So, use a floating lure. The heavier – around ¾ oz, the better. I use 12 or 14 lbs Berkley, Trilene and I am happy. Good luck.guys. carp-starter

This topic is on CFRB 1010 radio at 4PM right now - Nov 25. I am sorry that I am a bit slow - had problems loggin in to this site. carp-starter

Marcus Bronte is not closed now. BRONTE CREEK Bronte is open from Lakeshore Road (highway 2) down to Lake Ontario - all year. Since there is no longer a sanctuary from Lakeshore to Rebecca, Bronte now has an extended season from Lakeshore to the south side of highway 407 until December 31. CREDIT RIVER Credit River is open from the south side of highway 403 bridge down to Lake Ontario - all year. The Credit River also has an extended fall season until December 31 - from the south side of Britannia road to the south side of highway 407 bridge in Brampton. UPPER CREDIT As far as the upper Credit, be aware that there are in certain areas, special regulations or additional restrictions. carp-starter Read the regulations just in case I made a typo error.

I am sorry for this duplicate. I had a problem with the "Add Reply" key. carp-starter