ilario Posted July 25, 2007 Report Share Posted July 25, 2007 I'm looking at a late 60's Johnson. The owner has had it most of its life so he's got all the history.. well maintained and in good physical shape. But, it hasn't run in 5 years... it ran well up to that point. I'm thinking the carb might need work. What else might go wrong with a motor that's sat that long? Could it be major work? Oil and plugs were changed every fall.. Any suggestions? I will ask him to get it runnig before I think of buying it for sure... Anyone familiar with this vintage? was it a good motor? Thanks folks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misfish Posted July 25, 2007 Report Share Posted July 25, 2007 What is the hp? Im thinking maybe coils and carb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilario Posted July 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2007 33hp tiller but also has the electric start option... coils eh? what would that cost to replace? what about carb? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misfish Posted July 25, 2007 Report Share Posted July 25, 2007 Coils Im thinking are in the 20-40 dollar mark each.Cleaning the carb 30-50 bucks. To bad yer not closer to Barrie. I got a guy here that knows them old girls like the back of his hand.Would have you fixed up and running in no time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilario Posted July 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2007 misfish, i'm not too far from barrie... and i'm looking for a good mecahnic. I am near BPS. I fish Innisfil on the odd occasion so let me know. Is he right in Barrie? Are those prices just for parts? thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfish1965 Posted July 25, 2007 Report Share Posted July 25, 2007 Change the impellor!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilario Posted July 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2007 geez, that oo eh? i'll end up dropping $300 before its over... it's priced well now... i'll have to think about this. If it's running ok does that mean it could still require the above servicing? i guess the only way to know is get a mechanic to check it thanks for you help gentlemen... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernie Posted July 25, 2007 Report Share Posted July 25, 2007 Ran a 33 as a kid. PIGS on fuel, high emissions, oil slicks around the engine all the time. But they were durable.As others have mentioned- Points, condensers, impeller, check for cracks in the coils. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danbouck Posted July 25, 2007 Report Share Posted July 25, 2007 Probably be spending $500 to get it running perfect! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BITEME Posted July 25, 2007 Report Share Posted July 25, 2007 Buy a can of SEA FOAM change the impeller change the plugs coils should be okay drain the carb change fuel filter if it has one with the plugs out shoot some penetrant down each cylinder and let it sit over night next day roll over the fly wheel with a wrench with the plugs out make sure the are free and moving at this point if you have the means check the compression in each cylinder change out lower unit oil after all this is done mix a fresh batch of gas and try and fire it up with rabbit ears on if you get it going stop it take the cover off the carbsfire it back up and shoot some SEA FOAM down each carb intake dont be alarmed it will smoke like crazy but its all good your neighbours might want to kill you though(mine have learned this is normal)that should be it it should be good to go This is all easy stuff the most difficult thing for this motor will be parts not impossible though oh yeah buying the shop manual will be a real good idea Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilario Posted July 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2007 (edited) Buy a can of SEA FOAMchange the impeller change the plugs coils should be okay drain the carb change fuel filter if it has one with the plugs out shoot some penetrant down each cylinder and let it sit over night next day roll over the fly wheel with a wrench with the plugs out make sure the are free and moving at this point if you have the means check the compression in each cylinder change out lower unit oil after all this is done mix a fresh batch of gas and try and fire it up with rabbit ears on if you get it going stop it take the cover off the carbsfire it back up and shoot some SEA FOAM down each carb intake dont be alarmed it will smoke like crazy but its all good your neighbours might want to kill you though(mine have learned this is normal)that should be it it should be good to go This is all easy stuff the most difficult thing for this motor will be parts not impossible though oh yeah buying the shop manual will be a real good idea Lots of great info here... thus far I've only changed plugs and lower unit oil on my previous motors, thus I'm a little apprehensive about taking on all the other steps...i'm sure it's easier than it sounds! I want to learn how to do this stuff anyhow, so it might be good practice! Will the manual instruct me on all these steps? I guess eBay should have such manuals but can they be purchased elsewhere? by the way, where do I get Sea Foam and what type of 'penetrant' are we talking about? thanks a lot in advance! Edited July 25, 2007 by Poachers Paradise Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zamboni Posted July 25, 2007 Report Share Posted July 25, 2007 Most NAPA stores have Seafoam....Marvel oil is said to be the best penetrating/lube oil but not sure if that's true-any of good industrial penetrating oils should be fine. You may wan to read "Awakaning A Sleeping Outboard" at iboats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodsman Posted July 27, 2007 Report Share Posted July 27, 2007 I most likely have the manual you need. I have a 1967, 40 hp Johnson. It is a Seloc Johnson/Evinrude Volume I Tune-up and Repair Manual. This manual covers 1956-1970, 1.5 - 40 hp motors. If you can post the model # (ie: RD,RDL,RDS-15 ect.) I can identify the year for you & maybe look up some answers for you also. Best Wishes: Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boatman Posted July 28, 2007 Report Share Posted July 28, 2007 (edited) Great motors. Don't be scared of it. To cut down on smoke and the oil slick you can use synthetic oil. I use it in all my classic outboards that take 24:1 pre-mix. However, your motor is 50:1 so I'd just use normal oil. 1) Coils are $20-30/each. You may not need them. That vintage isn't known for bad coils. 2) Ignition tune-up kit (points and condensers) about $25. Probably don't need them either. 3) Impeller $25-30. I don't know if a replacement wear plate is available so hope it doesn't need to be replaced. 4) Carb rebuild kit about $30 includes new float. 5) Lower unit oil $10 6) Lower unit vent screw seals $2/pair 7) New spark plugs $10/pair Parts to do a complete tune-up including everything I listed is about $150 + tax. Nothing you can't do yourself. Sitting for 5 years isn't that bad, especially if it was maintained like they said it was. I wouldn't be surprised if all you need to do is change the lower unit oil and vent screw seals; lube the cylinders/crankshaft with penetrating oil; change plugs and fire it up. That would be about $20 for those keeping track. If you do a decarb, use the old plugs during the procedure. I forgot to mention that you should do the impeller, regardless of when it was last changed. Edited July 28, 2007 by boatman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilario Posted July 28, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2007 thanks fellas... as for the manual, i will contact you rick... i still haven;t made a decision on it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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