Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Well, we pick up the NEW boat on Sat. :thumbsup_anim: Just thought I would pick the brains of some of you as to any tips/ideas for keeping the boat in NEW condition. Previous boat was 14 Aluminum w/25 Merc. This one is 16+, al ot wider & deeper w/75Merc. Has dual console, vinyl floor and full standup cover.

Never had a "canvas" type cover. Anything I should/shouldn't do?

Obviously the aluminum hull & trailer will be well waxed! Any other tips?

Any tips on keeping the Merc up to snuff?

 

Any & all suggestions will be greatly appreciated!!

 

Thanks, FT

Posted (edited)

End of season storage.

Make sure you run the engine dry of gas. It is the most simplest thing to do yet alot don't. As the gas evaporates it will cause carmaling of the injecters and fuel system the shops love you guys 15 min. of work 300 bucks for the tune up.

Remove the plugs and spray with a light weight oil to coat the cylinder walls. prevents the rusting of the cylinder walls. Note only had tight the spark plugs you will have to take them out in the sping and be careful not to cross thread the plugs.

Change the oil's this will prevent the dirt from settaling on the bottom of your costly parts.

Peace Ken

Ps l just know engine's

Edited by bowshep
Posted

Do you have an owners manual for the motor? Follow there instructions to the letter.

 

I just got a new motor and they said to change the engine oil and gear oil after 20hours. I thought 20hours how dirty can it be? Well i pulled the dipstick and the oil looked little dirty. So i drained it and it was real dirty and so was the gear oil. Must have something to do with the brake in of a new motor.

Posted

On the fuel system over winter issue, I am now a little confused. Some say run out all of the fuel to stop it from gumming this up but others are saying to add stabilizer to the fuel during your last trip and leave the fuel in the system., as it keeps the seals etc. soft & supple.

Anyone have the definitive answer on this one?

As for the oil, I change that far more often than the Manufact. reccommendations in ALL my vehicles. CHEAP insurance.

thanks

 

FT

Posted
On the fuel system over winter issue, I am now a little confused. Some say run out all of the fuel to stop it from gumming this up but others are saying to add stabilizer to the fuel during your last trip and leave the fuel in the system., as it keeps the seals etc. soft & supple.

Anyone have the definitive answer on this one?

As for the oil, I change that far more often than the Manufact. reccommendations in ALL my vehicles. CHEAP insurance.

thanks

 

FT

 

I bought a new boat 3 years ago. Before the winter, fill up the tank (this will stop condensation in the tank), add stabilizer and let run for 15mins on idle. I add the fogging spray into the carbs, before the 15mins is up, this will kill the engine. Take out the plugs and spray fogger (5ml) into each hole. Done, not! In the lower case after the season is over, some water might get in and when it freezes, CRACK!! So change the lower case oil

before storing. Change the engine oil, so that when next season comes around, hook it up and go.

 

Check tire pressure, grease all grease points, ie. wheel bearings, put in drain plug before lauch, make sure you have all the safety equipment, extinguisher for sure. invest in an onboard charger. trailer safely.

 

DONE!!!

Posted

I do exactly what carper said, have owned a boat for about 12 years, my current one (1700 lund with 60 HP Merc.) about 7 years, never had a problem, and always starts on the first crank. My motor is oil injected, and if yours is 4 stroke it might be slightly different. I have never run the engine dry when I winterized it. I put in the fuel stabalizer, fill the tank, take the boat for its final 15-20 minute spin of the season, and do all the other stuff that was already mentioned.

Posted

Make sure the fetzer valves are greased well with 220 or 230 whatever it takes. Always keep a roll of duct tape on the boat!

 

Congrats on a new boat

Posted
Make sure the fetzer valves are greased well with 220 or 230 whatever it takes. Always keep a roll of duct tape on the boat!

 

Congrats on a new boat

 

 

I thought a fetzer valve was a distortion amp for electric guitars?? You dont mean zerk fitting do you?

 

 

Indeed congrats on the new boat :)

Posted

ok I have a tip after all. Twice this week on the way home from work I saw a boat stranded on the side of the road...missing a tire...I presume the owner got a flat. With no spare I expect they had to go get one...quick way to ruin a trip. If you have a spare...quick change and you're on your way....just like carrying a spare in your car.

 

Maureen

Posted

First of all, you're getting way to much info here, there are different winterizing techniques for 2 strokes and 4 strokes. Then theres carbs or fuel injection...What type of engine are you getting?

Posted

Motor is a 75HP 3 cylinder Mercury 2 stroke, carburated. Just brought it home last night & spent most of today playing "Karate Kid".....wax on , wax off!! My arms hurt!!

Won't be able to get it in the water until next weekend, DARN!

I wanna be retired NOW!!

 

Thanks for all of the tips so far, I DO realy appreciate it!!

 

FT

Posted

When firing it up the first time in the spring, use an old set of plugs so that you don't foul your new/good set while burning-off the fogging oil. I'd also invest in a hand operated gear oil pump, it's so much easier than trying to squeeze the oil up into the gear case from the bottle.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recent Topics

    Popular Topics

    Upcoming Events

    No upcoming events found

×
×
  • Create New...