Consigliere Posted March 5, 2016 Report Posted March 5, 2016 Off the shelf harness (Berkeley flicker rigs) have been great multi species trolling lure for me running a 3 way rig. Caught lots of big walleye as well. Being the st Lawrence/Lake Ontario area I figured I would get some big blades (6 and 8 size) and tie some of my own to see if catch some bigger fish that way. Anyone have any experience or tips for tying rigs of that size? What size hooks especially?
OhioFisherman Posted March 5, 2016 Report Posted March 5, 2016 http://www.berkley-fishing.com/berkley-terminal-tackle-rigs-berkley-walleye/flicker-rig-with-trilene-100%25-fluoro/1290541.html#start=1 Those pictured look like they have a quick change clevis? It may be as simple as a blade change?
Consigliere Posted March 5, 2016 Author Report Posted March 5, 2016 The big blades will fit but was looking to upsize hooks and line diameter to be a bit more robust to the toothy critters. Tried one with 6/0 octopus hooks I had around for some reason and it's pretty massive but come fall average size walleye is often over 28" and 9lbs.
mike rousseau Posted March 6, 2016 Report Posted March 6, 2016 I think mine are size 5 blades with a size 1 hook... On the st lawrence I'm usually running between 3-5 oz weights... The bigger blades would need bigger weights to keep em down... I don't think it would be enjoyable running a size 8 blade with a 6+oz weights... In my opinion if you want bigger fish go to the cranks..
G.mech Posted March 6, 2016 Report Posted March 6, 2016 (edited) I have been making my own big harnesses for a few years and we catch lots of big walleye on the West end of Erie with them. I have tried lots of combinations but my standard heavy harness is now made as follows: 55# black coated wire. It is twist & kink free and will stand up to lots of abuse. I tried lighter wire but it kinks and twists too easily. #4 Treble hook on the bottom & #4 single hook 3" above. You could maybe go a size bigger but these seem to work fine. I quit using baitholder hooks on the top since the barbs on the back of the shank have a tendency to nick the line resulting in a lost treble & fish (this likely wouldn't be a big problem with the 55lb wire but it certainly was with fluro or lighter wire) 1/4 beads quick change clevis. I tried to nice coiled steel ones but they are a pain to swap. The plastic ones are very easy to change and I have only ever lost a couple of blades with them #5 blades are the biggest I ever use and they drag pretty hard, I really don't think you need to go bigger in fact we often run #4's too. crimp the treble and top loop with #3 (.055 dia) crimps. You can still tie a snell on upper hook even with the 55# wire (it's not really easy but once you get the hang of it it's not bad) I make them about 3 feet long and pull them behind bottom bouncers and in-line weights. I was concerned about the wire being too bulky in the water but I tested these side by side with flurocarbon rigs and couldn't see any difference in the catch rate. The nice thing about them is they are bulletproof and last really well. Edited March 6, 2016 by G.mech
OhioFisherman Posted March 6, 2016 Report Posted March 6, 2016 http://lurepartsonline.com/Online-Store/Leader-Wire/Twist-Weld-Spool.html I used to use that for making my own toothy critter snelled hooks and worm harnesses. A #2 or 4 hook does seem a bit small for a large walleye, but it is mostly the type? I don't recommend light wire hooks for big fish, but on a worm harness anything bigger than a 2/0 might make it hard to get a hook in the perch that eats the worms? LOL
Consigliere Posted March 6, 2016 Author Report Posted March 6, 2016 Thanks for the info. Since I have th big blades definitely going to try them. Often run more than 5oz to run 3 ways and spoons to troll deep. Tackle industries MH musky rod handles up to 8pz no problem but it does get a bit tiring pulling it Towards the end of the day. Thinking I am going to try some 1 or 1/0 hooks with 40lb mono and see how that goes.
wormdunker Posted March 6, 2016 Report Posted March 6, 2016 I use 25 lb fluoro on my harnesses with #4 Colorado blades. I tie my own at 6' long to keep the bait away from the bottom bouncers but also using 8' & 9' rods. I also stopped using the bait holder hooks because they will nick the fluoro leader & weaken it. On the eastern basin of Erie we have had 30", 9 & 10 lb walleye with this set up. I'm not convinced # 8 blades will get bigger fish.
adempsey Posted March 6, 2016 Report Posted March 6, 2016 I am wondering what speed you need to hit to get those big #6,7,8 Colorado blades to spin. I suppose they do make Gang Trolls/Christmas Trees with similar sized blades, although I think they are not nearly as heavy.
Consigliere Posted March 7, 2016 Author Report Posted March 7, 2016 Yeah not sure will find out and report back. Have some big hatchets as well that look interesting.
67ZL1 Posted March 7, 2016 Report Posted March 7, 2016 (edited) I use 15lb Berkley Vanish and # 2 Owners Cutter hooks. I space my hooks out the same distance as your bank card ( hook point to hook point ). I use # 5&6 blades with the Dutch Fork clevis'. I've taken quite a few 8+ lb walleye on my rigs. I tie up the snells and then wrap them on a pool noodle as is. I then put my beads on another smaller loop of 30lb mono, kinda like a speed loader. Some days certain colours or pattern works better than others. Edited March 7, 2016 by 67ZL1
Consigliere Posted March 7, 2016 Author Report Posted March 7, 2016 Thanks for info. Seen a few sites that mention upsizing to 8 blades but nothing else. Suppose that just swap the 6 out and keep everything. Don't you get bite offs with only 15lb? I've had plenty of walleye cut off and pike do a number on them.
67ZL1 Posted March 7, 2016 Report Posted March 7, 2016 Thanks for info. Seen a few sites that mention upsizing to 8 blades but nothing else. Suppose that just swap the 6 out and keep everything. Don't you get bite offs with only 15lb? I've had plenty of walleye cut off and pike do a number on them. Walleye's no, pike yes. Walleye's teeth are spread out and the leader goes between their teeth. I always check my snells after each fish - takes 2 seconds. For some reason I for the life of me I can't get a good knot when I go heavier than 15-17 lb mono or floro, so that's why I stop at that line size. I've also used 12 lb test with good results also. I hate pike and if I get into shark infested waters, I move spots altogether or move deeper. If you tie your own harness, you'll be more apt to change them out more often, vs paying 4-5.00 and using it till it falls apart.
67ZL1 Posted March 7, 2016 Report Posted March 7, 2016 Check out this YouTube link and you'll see what I was trying to explain earlier by having blank snells pre made.
wormdunker Posted March 7, 2016 Report Posted March 7, 2016 I do not like his method of tying a snelled hook. If you were to push the main line toward the eye of the hook the knot will loosen. Not good with an 8 lb walleye on!
fishindevil Posted March 7, 2016 Report Posted March 7, 2016 use the number 5 Indiana blade.!!!!! the best for using bigger bl;ades and still goes deepwer and wont ride up like a Colorado,i use them on bouncers up too 2oz...and have no trouble in current or trolling anywhere from 20-30ft of water and mine that I make all have 2 hooks and I vary the size of hook and leangth of lead depending on what style im fishing
dave524 Posted March 7, 2016 Report Posted March 7, 2016 I do not like his method of tying a snelled hook. If you were to push the main line toward the eye of the hook the knot will loosen. Not good with an 8 lb walleye on! Started with steelhead decades ago but now use up eye snelled hooks for almost all applications. This is the knot I've used for 30 some years with no issues. Any fly tiers who can whip finish without a tool will quickly get the 2 finger twirl, for me, it is as quick as a clinch knot. If you don't snug the knot up to the eye you can fish yarn or skein in the loop for bows. http://www.steelheader.net/knots/whip_finish.htm
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