robinwood Posted June 7, 2007 Report Posted June 7, 2007 Thanks very much for all the responses - I have not had a chance to work on it this week. until tonight thanks to the mississauga ofnr who offered assistance I may well owe you very soon! I did read some of those previous web instructions ,looked pretty easy - but thought I had a major problem when I had to pull the hub off and that extra ring was stuck on the shaft- I take it it should come off ! so will apply some force and wd40 - I will not try and use any of the old parts - It makes sense I think to get bearing buddies - You are very correct safety should be the main issue here. I tried banging the rings(race) or whatever that is in the picture closest to the threads on the axel -it does not budge - am I safe to increase force? pipe wrence or something similiar-I take it that this ring should move ! here is the picture again
OhioFisherman Posted June 7, 2007 Report Posted June 7, 2007 The part that is stuck is the bearing race, it is pretty tough steel, a pipe wrench may just slip. I had one freeze on a used 68 camaro I bought years ago. It was seized pretty good and took some time to get off without causing any damage to the spindle. Oil or grease won`t free it, it will just make sure once it starts coming off it will keep coming off. When those get stuck it is almost like they are welded to the spindle, the piece of pipe worked for me without causing any damage to the spindle. If you get it off you do want to inspect the spindle for burrs or sharp edges, damage done.
Billy Bob Posted June 7, 2007 Report Posted June 7, 2007 It's hard to tell by the picture but if that is the race that is stuck on the axle or whatever it is that is stuck next to the threads on the axle I would CAREFULLY heat just that part so you can just tap it off the axle without damaging the threads. Try to concentrate all the heat on that part and none on the axle itself. Bob
Fisherman Posted June 7, 2007 Report Posted June 7, 2007 Okay, that pictures got me slightly baffled. From the left side, I see the axle seal, the inner bearing, I assume the inner race is still in the hub, then the remnants of part of what held the outer bearing together, then the exterior part of the bearing body sitting on top of the axle threads. Okay Houdini, how did you get that hub off? WD-40 is a waste of time,(WD= water displacing formula # 40) you need something like "rust buster or Release All". You may by the grace of luck and perseverence, heat the last part with a propane torch quick enough to loosen its grip on the axle by the threads, and slide it inwards,(use a piece of pipe slightly larger than the threaded portion. Then with a fine tooth "32tpi" hacksaw or a cut off wheel if you're real good, split the ring off. Hopefully the inner bearing should slide off along with the grease seal without too much fuss. Try to avoid at all costs damaging the stub part of the axle and threaded portion where the hub goes. Once you have everything off, then shine it up with a 0000 steel wool pad to get rid of the rust and crud. Apply a light coat of grease to prevent overnight rust while you get the hub ready. If you weren't all the way down in Mississasage, I'd come down. Good luck.
brifishrgy Posted June 7, 2007 Report Posted June 7, 2007 if you have a plumbers torch you can try heating it up a little (only heat the race not the shaft) .... best bet is to get a bearing puller ... I believe you can get one at loan a tool at crappie tire .. leave a deposit and return when done
Billy Bob Posted June 7, 2007 Report Posted June 7, 2007 After studying the picture more I think you are right and it is the "inner" race that is stuck on. Penetrating oil and all that stuff is a waste of time. Trying to cut the race off with hack saw would be next to impossible because it is a hardened steel. Get yourself either a acetylene torch or if you can't get one go to a hardware store and get a "map" gas kit (cost around $35). Map gas is much hotter than a propane torch. Heat the race as I mentioned earlier and just lightly tap it off. But before you do this wipe down the whole axle clean of all the grease to prevent any fires. I am SURE this will work.
PERCHER Posted June 7, 2007 Report Posted June 7, 2007 Thats not the inner bearing race stuck at the end of the axle ,Its the inner bearing that has come apart .The inner and outter race should still be in the hub.The race s will have to be removed from the hub and changed as well.I would try a little heat with a propane torch and then carefully try to slide it off but be carefull not to damage the threads at the end of the axle.It should not take a lot of heat to expand the metal ring from the bearing.If you need a hand I work in Mississauga .Just shoot me a P.M and I will stop by.Dan
Fisherman Posted June 7, 2007 Report Posted June 7, 2007 Thats not the inner bearing race stuck at the end of the axle ,Its the inner bearing that has come apart .The inner and outter race should still be in the hub.The race s will have to be removed from the hub and changed as well. That's what I was eluding to when I asked "how did you get the hub off, Houdini". Every hub I have ever taken off, you have to take off the outer bearing (normally just slides out) 'cause the bearing won't fit through the center of the race. So then the outer race must be totally desintegrated too.
Billy Bob Posted June 7, 2007 Report Posted June 7, 2007 Percher got it right. It's has to be the inner ring of the inner bearing that is stuck on the axle and the inner race in still in the hub. I wasn't thinking when I said it must be the inner race because the inner race would be big enough to just slide right off the axle. Instead as Percher pointed out it's the inner ring that got welded to the axle. HEAT it carefully and it will just tap right off.
PatB Posted June 8, 2007 Report Posted June 8, 2007 If the bearing got that hot for it to weld it to the axle, you will most likely have to use a cutting torch, cut the race in 2 places then find the biggest hammer and a cold chisel, the 2 parts will come off with a little force. Sand down the axle with some emery paper and install your new bearings. Most important part is when cutting only cut the race do not cut into the axle.
robinwood Posted June 13, 2007 Author Report Posted June 13, 2007 Percher got it right. It's has to be the inner ring of the inner bearing that is stuck on the axle and the inner race in still in the hub. I wasn't thinking when I said it must be the inner race because the inner race would be big enough to just slide right off the axle. Instead as Percher pointed out it's the inner ring that got welded to the axle. HEAT it carefully and it will just tap right off. well, I have been squeezing in an hour here and there working on the thing - thanks again for all the responses found a "acme universal inner ring pounding device" actually some kind of pipe in the plumbing dept at Canadian tire that fit over the end of the axel and allowed me to hammer it against the bearing ring - I moved it about 1 1/2 inches inward away from the threads- tried to move it forward again tapping with the hammer - but no go!- bought a small puller- Product #25-3605-6 canadain tire again!- no movement - bought small propane torch product id Product #58-7542-2 last night and tried to heat it up - no movement! - might I assume that with a more robust puller- I should be able to pull it off? I cannot really hammer from behind as the traler is in the way and do not want to damge the shaft!- thanks
POLLIWOGG Posted June 13, 2007 Report Posted June 13, 2007 try a cutting wheel in your grinder and cut it off, or just grind one side away till you get down to the axle and it should loosen up.
Billy Bob Posted June 13, 2007 Report Posted June 13, 2007 robinwood, the tool you got is probably to knock out the old race from the hub but you have the race stuck on the axle. The propane torch will never give you enough heat to tap off the race. Too bad you pounded it inward because that just more you have to go in the opposite direction. Please listen, almost any other way might damage the axle. The correct way is to apply heat to the race but not with a propane torch. The best would be a acetylene torch but it's something you probably don't have and would be hard to borrow. The next best torch for you to get (buy) would be a Mapp Gas torch set. They really aren't that much money (about $35 here in the states). They are real hot compared to a propane torch but not as hot as a acetylene torch so you might need someone to help you. While you apply the heat DIRECTLY on the race have a helper tap off the race. I'll bet my best walleye bait that it will come right off using the Mapp gas set up, unless you know someone who can come over with a acetylene torch.
robinwood Posted June 15, 2007 Author Report Posted June 15, 2007 well, thinking I was starting to spend more than an entire new axle ( an hesiting to burn down my garage trying to cut this thing off) I passed princess Auto today -thanks for the suggestion Rayfish, -a very manly but messy store -but full of many very interesting and strange devices- checked complete axles but they all had 5 studs mine wheels have 4 - rumaged around and found a 3 legged more robust puller- certainly if i could move the ring one way I should be able to move it back - it worked I managed to remove the offending ring 10 minutes ago - tested the threads with the lock bolt that came off the hub originally - seems ok, - May get the boat in the water this year after all!- I now have all these parts and the hub- I was thinking that rather than screw up repacking them myself - I could get a Hub complete with all these little pieces somewhere- any thoughts on the best place to take all these pieces for a knowledgeable replacement- C Tire and even princess today did not seem to have anyone who really knew things - Thanks again folks
Billy Bob Posted June 15, 2007 Report Posted June 15, 2007 Congrats on getting the old race off the axle. You have a good idea about maybe just replacing the hub completely but then again you still might have to add the bearings and race. But putting this thing together is really not a tough or time consuming job. IF your old hub is still good (it probably is) you just need to hammer in TWO NEW races per hub and Grease (get GOOD MARINE AXLE grease) the new bearings, set the rear bearing in place and hammer in the NEW rear grease seal. Install on axle and place the new outside bearing onto axle and push it into the hub. Place the bearing washer onto the axle and slide up against new outside bearing. Screw on nut hand tight and just snug up with channel lock pliers (large pliers) put on cotter key nut and then apply cotter key and slight spread the key. Hammer on the hub cap and repeat on the other side. OR Take the hub to a HONEST mechanic to do the above stuff and bring home and install on axle as described above. All this work I described above is TWO hours at the VERY most for even a novice. Just make sure you use GOOD MARINE AXLE grease and really pack the bearing and the HUB with enough grease. Too bad most school are now letting out because this is something they teach in all automotive class as lesson number one and they would love to do this for you for credit. I wish I lived close to you because all it would cost you is some of those COLD Canadian beers to get this pie job done.
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