Handlebarz Posted February 11, 2015 Report Posted February 11, 2015 Hey all I have been blowing fuses on my direct wire for my trailer. The wire on the dodge journey was a Reese plug in style "fool proof" and we had to run a direct wire to the battery. The trailer has all led lights so it should not be over loaded I'm thinking. It has blown a 15A and a 20A Any ideas what to look for? I'm heading to Toronto tomorrow
OhioFisherman Posted February 11, 2015 Report Posted February 11, 2015 A bare spot in the insulation on the wiring?
Fisherman Posted February 11, 2015 Report Posted February 11, 2015 Hey all I have been blowing fuses on my direct wire for my trailer. The wire on the dodge journey was a Reese plug in style "fool proof" and we had to run a direct wire to the battery. The trailer has all led lights so it should not be over loaded I'm thinking. It has blown a 15A and a 20A Any ideas what to look for? I'm heading to Toronto tomorrow Clue me in, what's a "direct wire"? To provide 12 inside the trailer from the car battery? Like Ohio said, most likely a frayed wire somewhere.
wormdunker Posted February 11, 2015 Report Posted February 11, 2015 If running a wire directly from the battery of the tow vehicle to the trailer - where are the fuses you are referring to? Does your trailer have a fuse panel?
wormdunker Posted February 12, 2015 Report Posted February 12, 2015 Sorry I should have offered a possible solution. If your trailer does have it's own fuse panel - bypass it with that wire which you have directly wired to the tow vehicle battery. Good luck. I don't want to see you miss the show!
Handlebarz Posted February 12, 2015 Author Report Posted February 12, 2015 You guys are thinking like I am has to be a bare wire somewhere that will move and short out. I will be doing a complete rewiring of the trailer. The direct wire has a fuse in it we ran it direct from the battery it has very thick outer layer I'm sure that some of the old wire might have a chafe in it was just asking as this was the first time with Led lights on a car and trailer.
wormdunker Posted February 12, 2015 Report Posted February 12, 2015 Ok - makes sense now. In line fuse was blowing. I've done the same thing as you are doing. If I can't find the faulty wire in an older wiring set up - I remove all the old wiring - install brand new wiring. Much quicker & less head aches! While you're at it - install wire loom over the new wires, saves the new wire from the elements.
DanD Posted February 12, 2015 Report Posted February 12, 2015 (edited) If this fuse blows as soon as it is installed; here's one way of chasing it down without going through a pile of fuses. Get one of those cheap 12V test lights. Remove the blown fuse and connect the test light across the two fuse terminals. You'll need to insert something like a paper clip into the fuse terminal making it easier to connect the test light. If the short to ground; that's blowing the fuse is there, the test light will light. As you start to work on the wiring harness and the light goes out, you'll be close to where the short to ground is. Dan. Edited February 12, 2015 by DanD
lew Posted February 12, 2015 Report Posted February 12, 2015 Always good having you & Bernie around Dan.
Handlebarz Posted February 12, 2015 Author Report Posted February 12, 2015 Thanks guys the fuse does not blow right away it might last for 20 hours driving or 4 hours then blows
Tybo Posted February 12, 2015 Report Posted February 12, 2015 first thing is to get that direct wire off the battery.What you have is a dead short.Power to ground.With the direct wire to your battery,when the short occurs you could burn everything down. The short will try to draw every amp from the battery.
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