Your favourite method for sharpening filet knives

[FloatnFly]

I found the issue with the Lasky system is it sharpens only one side of the knife and the guide is so wide that it allows for poor angle control. The angle of a knife is very dependant on it's use. A boning knife is trained at 18 degrees while a butcher knife is 24 degrees and a cleaver 28 degrees. A well trained knife is one where the edges are even and the spine is in line with cutting edge. A sharp knife that is done on a course stone will feel sharp but it has a tearing motion like microscopic edges which is good in most cases that people use a knife in. A polished blade down to the micron level does not tear but cleanly cuts thru the material like a scalpel. This edge is more for show knifes or fine cuts such as sushi knifes and a few of the other chefs knifes that have some really pricey price tags. The grinder methods or belt sanders are good for the tearing type of cutting blades if you want a quick and fast edge on cheap knifes. The down fall of them is they generate heat and pull the temper out of the knife so resharpening is needed more often. Because of the fast removal of material they also are easy to get the spine and the edge out of alignment making for a knife that over time is labor intensive to correct. The friction disc sharpeners rely on pulling off a layer of metal in a predetermined angle and as they wear they lose the angle and you lose the advantage of the specific angles needed for different cutting jobs. T

 

 

Art

 

 

we use about a 10 degree angle on our 6" boning knives, and about a 20 degree on our 12" plus steak/breaking knives, on a filet knife you want the real low angle to make it easier to push the blade between the skin and meat, the lower the angle on the blade edge, the less the meat has to lift to allow the blade to pass

Edited June 5, 2013 by FloatnFly

[danc]

I've always preferred a knife thats a little less than razor sharp for filleting. I have a Fiskars rubber handled serrated filleting knife thats somewhere between 15 and 20 years old. No maintainace reqiured. Still works like new. I like it.

[Old Ironmaker]

I found the issue with the Lasky system is it sharpens only one side of the knife and the guide is so wide that it allows for poor angle control. The angle of a knife is very dependant on it's use. A boning knife is trained at 18 degrees while a butcher knife is 24 degrees and a cleaver 28 degrees. A well trained knife is one where the edges are even and the spine is in line with cutting edge. A sharp knife that is done on a course stone will feel sharp but it has a tearing motion like microscopic edges which is good in most cases that people use a knife in. A polished blade down to the micron level does not tear but cleanly cuts thru the material like a scalpel. This edge is more for show knifes or fine cuts such as sushi knifes and a few of the other chefs knifes that have some really pricey price tags. The grinder methods or belt sanders are good for the tearing type of cutting blades if you want a quick and fast edge on cheap knifes. The down fall of them is they generate heat and pull the temper out of the knife so resharpening is needed more often. Because of the fast removal of material they also are easy to get the spine and the edge out of alignment making for a knife that over time is labor intensive to correct. The friction disc sharpeners rely on pulling off a layer of metal in a predetermined angle and as they wear they lose the angle and you lose the advantage of the specific angles needed for different cutting jobs. The plate method works well for those who have the knack and need to refresh the edge similar to what a steel can do. The steel is basically a tool to remove a burr or rolled edge from a blade that was used on an unforgiving cutting board. I personally advise only wood cutting boards and separate boards for meat and vegetables. I will also say that very few people need a knife as well trained and sharp as what you can accomplish with the wicked edge but if you get past the price you will not be disappointed by the end results.

 

 

Art

 

 

 

Art,

 

An excellent description of the basic metallurgy behind a sharp knife, well done.

Edited June 5, 2013 by Old Ironmaker

[aplumma]

I have put a few knifes at 10 degrees for people who ask but have found they mistreat the edges and dull them quickly. I have a few straight razors that are at 6 degrees and they have been honed to .05 microns they make a scalpel look dull. I did it mostly to see how far I could push the envelope more than as a practical use. I ran my finger down the side of the edge (I thought) and didn't feel the cut till I saw the blood. As I guess people know I like the concept and execution of a finely honed knife it is kind of a hobby for me.

 

 

Art

[Old Ironmaker]

I have a 30 year old Rappala knife that works 12 months a year. I don't agree they are garbage. Maybe the knives sold today, certainly not those from 30 years ago. The blade is almost gone now. I have a pal sharpen all my knives for me and use the steel on it every time used, I don't know what he uses but you can shave a baby's bum with it, I'll ask him. Sometimes use the steel on it more than once during the job.

[aplumma]

If you want to see some good examples of micro sharpening knifes and understand angles and the art of honing take a look at this blog.

 

http://sharpeningtechniques.blogspot.com/

 

 

Art

[mike rousseau]

Get someone else to do it... That's what friends are for... Lol

[Metisfisherman]

The following sharpener is very good on the wooden handle rapala knives. Once you get the feel for it.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=60002&cat=1,43072,43079&ap=1

Knife Sharpener

Sub-micron carbide particles in this sharpener are about one-fortieth the diameter of a human hair and are the kind used in the most demanding of metal-machining processes.

Extremely hard and durable, the carbide can be ground to a much keener and more durable edge than common carbides. Each of the two blades has four edges and can be rotated to a new edge if one is accidentally damaged.

The sharpener comes as a right-handed version but the blades are easily reversed to convert it for left-handed use.

To sharpen a knife you just draw it through the intersecting carbide blades with light pressure. A very dull knife may initially require several light passes but can be maintained thereafter with a single pass for touch-ups.

Not only is it easy to use, but if used with care, it should last for as long as you (or we) live.

Knife Sharpener
70M46.50 $16.50

[Nipfisher]

Joeytier, I use the Edgemaker Pro like a few others have mentioned. It is fast and easy and makes the blade super sharp. Probably rips up the blade a bit like Art explains but works extreemly well and is cheap. If you are around town check mine out.