Concrete repair

[lew]

Morning boys

 

I'm having glass panel railings installed on my front porch but I have a small concrete repair to do 1st.

 

I removed the old wooden railings yesterday and all the main support posts were drilled thru the bottom and set on top of steel rebar that was embedded in the concrete.

 

I cut the rebar off flush with the porch floor but on the corner of the porch the concrete was cracked and loose and when I cut the rebar the corner broke away.

 

You can see the cracked corner on the left under the post

 

 

It's not a big piece but I want to fix it properly before installing the new railing.

 

Here's a pics of the break

 

 

 

 

 

First, what's the best product to buy for this reapair, I'll just need a small bag

 

And second, should I drill a few holes into the break in order for the new concrete to go into the holes and act as an additional anchor ??

 

Appreciate any thoughts

[Fish4Eyes]

I bet F7firecat has a solution for this. PM him if he doesn't chime in.

[lew]

OK, thanks

[GBW]

Lew, make a wood frame around it first. Then drill a few small holes in the chunk and the main porch and put nails in to keep it in place rather than use the concrete to fill the holes. Then use a proper outdoor concrete to fill the gap like a layered cake. When it sets take the wood off then seal the whole porch. I DON'T know if this is best but it's where I would start if I had to do it.

 

*edit to fix* I put a line through it after I looked at the pic's again. frame it in build new with a few spikes in the porch to help it hold.

Edited September 13, 2012 by GBW

[ch312]

no need to drill holes for the patch material to get into. you could throw in a few pins (tapcons with 1 - 1 1/2" exposed) if you want, but they're really not necessary as the existing concrete is in great condition and the patch material will bond well.

 

- cut off that steel some more if you can

- hose off the corner

- wait for the shine to dry off the damaged corner (damp, but no standing water on surface)

- mix up a slurry/scrub coat with patch material (a small amount of watered down patch material you brush/scrub into the area to be repaired)

- wait for the shine to come off the slurry

- trowel on the patch material, being sure to force the first "hit" into the concrete for a good bond

- build it up until the patch material is sticking out farther than the concrete

- wait for patch material to dry some

- use a trowel to cut material nearly flush with existing concrete

- blend in the patch to your liking with sponge float, styrofoam, wood, etc

 

no matter what product you use the patch will always be noticeable. for this reason i suggest you parge the face of the porch all the way around.

 

mapei planitop x and basf gel patch are my favorites. any construction supply in your area will probably carry these.

[ch312]

lastly, this is why you don't over tighten shielded anchors that are near the perimeter

[Headhunter]

Lew, check out a product called "Top N Bond". you can get it at any Home Depot. No need to pin it, just make sure that when you apply it, you wet down the area well.

You'll need to frame out the area, wet it, then trowel in the Top N Bond. Let it dry for a bit until it sets, then spray it with a utillity sprayer (mist) to dampen the surface. Trowel it smooth and it will dry white or close to it.

HH

[lew]

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

 

I went down to Peterboro this morning and stopped in at the local concrete dealer and he recommended a product called Quickrete.

 

He said it would be a good idea to drill a couple holes and insert bolts although not absolutely necessary and I could also drill a couple more holes just to anchor the mixture.

 

I followed both suggestions, then built a small form and added the Quickrete mixture. Let it sit for a bit, then removed the form and wiped it down with a damp cloth.

 

Looks like it's gonna be a good repair....fingers crossed.

 

Says to keep it damp for 48 hours so I've got a damp cloth laying over it for now.

 

Thanks again for the ideas.

 

 

 

[steelhedrmatt]

There is a great product we use all the time for small patches like this one. Its called Sika top plus. comes in a yellow bag. I would suggest using a latex primer and pins. The pins will prevent the patch from detaching from the parent concrete in the event water gets into the seam and freezes. another good product is called king. When mixed properly, it will have a compessive strength of around 25-35 MPA. Which ever method you choose, you should install the pins. Tapcons work good for this.

When you install your new railing, try to keep a min. edge distance of about 4" for any type of expansion anchor, or 2" for a chemical epoxy anchor.

[steelhedrmatt]

Haha. You posted your fix while i was typing my reply. lol Looks good!! You should've got your railings from me though.

[lew]

You should've got your railings from me though.

 

Now you tell me

[GBW]

looks good Lew

[ch312]

There is a great product we use all the time for small patches like this one. Its called Sika top plus. comes in a yellow bag. I would suggest using a latex primer and pins. The pins will prevent the patch from detaching from the parent concrete in the event water gets into the seam and freezes. another good product is called king. When mixed properly, it will have a compessive strength of around 25-35 MPA. Which ever method you choose, you should install the pins. Tapcons work good for this.

When you install your new railing, try to keep a min. edge distance of about 4" for any type of expansion anchor, or 2" for a chemical epoxy anchor.

 

sika makes good stuff, but it's a pain to work with as the crap sticks to everything. it's because of this that we started harassing the engineers to switch over to gel patch (awesome stuff) as it's so much easier to work with and finishes great. plus, there's no jug of juice for each bag like sika. king FA was our go-to product when we needed to pour instead of patch.

 

pins are not required when using patch materials and you're bonding to concrete that is sound and in good condition, that's what your slurry/scrub coat is for. even if you do decide you use pins, a scrub coat should still be used to prevent water infiltration like you mentioned.

 

lew, quikcrete makes tons of different products. what did you use?

[lew]

 

pins are not required when using patch materials and you're bonding to concrete that is sound and in good condition, that's what your slurry/scrub coat is for. even if you do decide you use pins, a scrub coat should still be used to prevent water infiltration like you mentioned.

 

lew, quikcrete makes tons of different products. what did you use?

 

I used the slurry coat that you suggested and the product that they recommended was Quikrete Quick-Drying Cement. Supposedly it's specially made for exactly the kind of repair I was making.

 

http://www.quikrete.com/productlines/QuickSettingCement.asp

 

As of 10 minutes ago, the repair patch was still in place

Edited September 14, 2012 by lew

[lew]

Looks great Lew, just a 3" trowel away from perfection! (I assume the new railing will hide that anyhow)

 

Yup, once the new railing is installed the patch will be pretty well hidden.

[express168]

Lew,

 

 

Sorry, I haven't been on for a while and would have chimed in. You did get good advice though and appears that you did a good job. I would have recommended the same processas ch312 and the Mapei Planitop X as well, it is great repair product. However you did a nicer looking repair than some of the guys that I have seen in the business.

[ch312]

I used the slurry coat that you suggested and the product that they recommended was Quikrete Quick-Drying Cement. Supposedly it's specially made for exactly the kind of repair I was making.

 

http://www.quikrete.com/productlines/QuickSettingCement.asp

 

As of 10 minutes ago, the repair patch was still in place

 

cool! i had no clue quikrete sold a patching product. you did a good job for a first timer

 

However you did a nicer looking repair than some of the guys that I have seen in the business.

 

don't even get me started on some of the mickey mouse work i've seen. believe it or not, but i've knocked out too many soffit (balcony "ceiling") and wall patches weighing 25-50 lbs+ with only a few taps from a hammer and small chisel thanks to knobs that don't do thing's properly. when a 40lb patch is hanging 30 stories above the street, you'd think they'd do thing's the right way

[Billy Bob]

I have used a VERY similar product by Quikrete.....for my driveway and my son's front steps....it hasn't let go in the last 3 years so I'm a HAPPY CAMPER....here's the stuff...

 

http://www.quikrete.com/ProductLines/VinylConcretePatcher.asp

[F7Firecat]

LEW,

 

Key to any good repair is the surface prep, make it nice and clean (wirebrush, sandblast or powerwash) and a good polymer repair mortar such as a Sika Top 123 BASF Gelpatch (very good material, Mapei Panitop X will work.

 

Dampen concrete before you patch let surface dry, a good scub coat (slurry coat) and patch.

 

Looks like LEW did a good job, wonder if he wants a job.

 

LOL

 

Bryan