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Posted

With flouro the idea is that you can use a higher test line that is less visible than the equivalent lb test mono. Depending on the size and action of your lure the action may not be impacted too much.

 

I have also used a coated "tieable" wire line when I am fishing walleye but pike are a real possibility. I think it works better for walleye lures and presentations then heavier flouro.

 

I like braid and use it a lot but I find it does not stand up to teeth and rocks as well as its lb test would lead you to believe. It's break strength is great but its abrasion resistance more closely matches its diameter. Wire/flouro leader and even mono sometimes works for me.

 

 

I agree almost 100% except for one point.....fluorocarbon. The invisibility has not been proven and using heavier fluorocarbon does affect lure action a lot. On top of that, I have been very disappointed in the knot strength of fluorocarbon. It's either hardened mono or tieable steel or titanium for me. I haven't tried kevlar yet.

 

For bait fishing or when using inexpensive lures like big plastic baits on large pike hooks, I stick to hard mono like Berkley XT and not care if a pike bites me off. I found that the pike that do bite me off are usually the smaller pike anyway.

Posted

I agree almost 100% except for one point.....fluorocarbon. The invisibility has not been proven and using heavier fluorocarbon does affect lure action a lot. On top of that, I have been very disappointed in the knot strength of fluorocarbon. It's either hardened mono or tieable steel or titanium for me. I haven't tried kevlar yet.

 

 

For bait fishing or when using inexpensive lures like big plastic baits on large pike hooks, I stick to hard mono like Berkley XT and not care if a pike bites me off. I found that the pike that do bite me off are usually the smaller pike anyway.

 

 

I did use a few qualifiers that might have been missed.

 

I've got some glide baits that I could pull with a rope and the action would be the same. I also have some subtle minnow baits that have a deadened action even with 20lb fluoro.

 

As with braid, I had to learn to tie different knots when using fluoro.

Posted

For pike I go with 100 lb Seguar Fluoro leader material, which is the heaviest Cabela's offer. It works well for me. Raf, I don't throw soft baits, so can't offer any input to your post. I mostly heave Suicks, 1 1/8 oz JSM w/an Uncle Josh's red striper strip, 5 1/4".

 

When fishing jigs with 15# pp (for walleyes) and no leader, I've been cut off by small pike, but don't recall ever being bit off by a big pike due to their big teeth that have wide gaps, for the line to fit, rather than being cut off. Just gotta be cool when bringing them in. Keep the line tight, don't horse and don't go too soft. Be in charge. Have an idea.

 

Don't underestimate the bite of big pike. Go heavy with your leader. Never wrong to go with wire. Maybe using fluoro is like owning a Harley. Kick rocks and say, "Yeah, I got me a Harley". Same with Fluoro? Status and testerone go hand in hand.

 

Back in 2005 season I had a pretty good fisherman put me onto using a large net/pen and not removing pike from the water during the release. Also put me onto fluorocarbon leaders. Might be why I continue to use them. That boy can fish and he can write.

Posted

I have been using 20lb or 30lb Titanium for years now for pike and I'll never look back. They are resistant to kinking unlike steel leaders, and quite thin and light. This allows for lures such as a Husky Jerk or topwaters etc and will not take any action away from the lures. Stringease makes incredible pre-made leaders, or you can get a leader spool of tieable Terminator titanium and make your own.

Posted

I generally don't like using steel leaders. They certainly prevent pike from cutting the line, but I find I don't get nearly as many hits when I use them. I've been experimenting with florocarbon, and had pretty good success, especially when working slow action baits. The quality of the floro seems to make a difference. Seaguar 30 lb seems to work well for smaller size pike, and 60 lb for larger pike. It's expensive though...

Posted

For most applications I'd say wire works fine. Lakes further north can be quite turbid and less pressured so pike are generally not line shy.

 

However, necessity is the mother of all invention. I'm a bigger proponent of jerk baits. I find myself mesmerized and somewhat inspired by watching a slow twitched lucky craft slender pointer in slack water, over some deep cabbage!! :w00t:

 

Those who know what I'm talking about agree that wire adds weight to your leader and is an eye sore in clear water. And there's nothing worse than seeing your bait nose dive on a pause.

 

That's where fluro comes in. A 100% fluro leader will be virtually invisible to fish, and a leader that’s tied without metal is way more buoyant than wire.

 

Problem is as some have pointed out is you tend to floss a lot of fish with fluro. And losing a $20 bait really hurts and it can harm a fish, so the heavier the fluro you use the better.

 

I won't go under 80lb. I've seen too many break offs on 50lb.

 

Problem is, you can't really field tie an 80lb leader. You have to secure the loops to hold your terminal bits. The obvious solution is crimping wire sleeves over the loops. A good crimping tool will do a good job, and it looks great, but it just ends up adding more weight.

 

For the past few years now I've been using braid to secure my loops. It's a fraction of the weight and its very low profile. I basically use a rod wrap knot and 100lb braid with hardener to bind the braid to the line and to seal the knot and prevent it from absorbing water and slackening.

 

Kinda looks like dis. :D

 

DSC00457.jpg

 

 

DSC00455.jpg

 

Since I've switched to fluro, I'd say the number of hook-ups versus follows has gone up tremendously. It's a confidence thing though. If you're confident about what you're throwing you're going to focus on your presentation, the retrieve. You can work a bait as slow or as fast as you want, giv'er wide rips or gentle sweeps. You'll want to crouch down and focus on what might be happening to your bait somewhere down there in the abyss. All because you know that your leader isn't hindering the action of your finely tuned bait.

 

cheers

HD

Posted

Those are very nice fluoro leaders HD. I really like the fluoro leaders for many lures, but I still find them too heavy for jerkbaits. 20lb titanium is much lighter, especially with a small Stringease snap and no swivel. I tie direct to mainline with an albright knot as a swivel isn't needed for jerks. Way more bites than 60 or 80lb fluoro because the leader weighs almost nothing and it's so thin the fish don't see it. Also, there is much less terminal tackle for the fish to see. The longevity is also good but not quite as good as fluoro.

 

Your leaders look very well made and I like the loops at the ends. They look perfect for most applications.

Posted

I don't fish for pike, infact I consider them nothing more than a nuisance, but IMHO I don't think their the least bit line shy and will hit just about anything that crosses their path.

 

When I'm fishing muskies on the West Arm of Nippissing it's nearly always big baits with 130# fluoro and some days you can't keep them off your hooks.

 

I'm talking foot long lures or large spinnerbaits with up to #13 tandem blades and 7/0 hooks either casting or trolling up to 6 or 7 MPH and their hammering them.

 

I took this pic last year just cause I thought it was amazing what those little slimers will hit.

 

Toss whatever you've got in the box and a pike will grab it :lol:

 

022.jpg

Posted

Those are very nice fluoro leaders HD. I really like the fluoro leaders for many lures, but I still find them too heavy for jerkbaits. 20lb titanium is much lighter, especially with a small Stringease snap and no swivel. I tie direct to mainline with an albright knot as a swivel isn't needed for jerks. Way more bites than 60 or 80lb fluoro because the leader weighs almost nothing and it's so thin the fish don't see it. Also, there is much less terminal tackle for the fish to see. The longevity is also good but not quite as good as fluoro.

 

Your leaders look very well made and I like the loops at the ends. They look perfect for most applications.

 

Thanks Aaron. That's a great tip for tying on the go, while you're out on the water. An albright knot would be about the only knot you could use to tie wire to braid and it's relatively easy to tie.

 

I know a few guys who tie a length of fluro directly to their braid, using a double uni and no swivel, but it's tough getting away with a thicker mono like 60lb or 80lb. That's why I add the swivels. I like to use the smallest ones possible, keeping in mind the breaking strength of the leader. Spinners and spoons necessitate having a swivel to prevent line twist, but you don't need em for jerk baits.

 

Also, leader strength tends to match the bait you're throwing. I wouldn't throw an lc pointer 100 with an 130lb leader. That's just plain overkill.

 

I still think it's best to go as low-profile as possible when fishing in clear water. Our toronto harbour esox have been through the drill. They're wise to an un-natural looking presentation. Those cheap thick CT wire leaders just don't cut it for me.

 

Fluro all the way, baby. B)

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