Accessing the fuel sending unit

[ch312]

where the heck is the fuel sending unit on a g3 angler v165 and how do you get to it? i searched all over the boat and online for an hour with zero success.

[Twocoda]

in the fuel tank?

[SlowPoke]

Even if it isn't in plain sight, you can bet the manufacturer made the $horte$t run po$$ible from the filler cap to the tank. That should put you in the right ballpark.

[lew]

On my last boat, a Crestliner, the fuel tank was under the rear casting deck and I had to remove that to access the sending unit. Not really a big deal though as it's just held in place with screws.

 

You may find the same thing on your G3.

[bigbuck]

Find out where the fuel tank is. Whatever is on top will have to be removed and then you can access the sending unit. Check your wiring to make sure it is a problem with the sending unit and not the guage itself or the wiring. Good luck.

[ch312]

i easily located the fuel tank yesterday, but i havent a clue how to access it. when i remove the drain in the floor i can see something on top of the tank, but there's such little clearance between the tank and the floor that removing the unit would be impossible. plus, the drain is only a 2" hole and 6-8" to the rear of the sending unit. i'm 90% sure this is the sending unit.

 

i just looked for a half hour and can't figure out where to begin when it comes to lifting up the deck. there is a 16" section that runs down the middle of the boat directly over the tank which would lead me to believe this section is removable, but i cant figure out if or how it comes up.

 

im a pretty handy guy, but i'm stumped worst case ill just bust out the 3" hole saw and cut an access hole directly above the unit and go buy a deck plate...

 

 

the gauge always reads full when i turn the key. how can i test the gauge and sending unit?

[DRIFTER_016]

My boat has a 6" deck plate right over the sensor/hose area. :good:

It sounds to me like you need to find some hidden screws on the panel that runs down the center of your flooor. I would not just drill it in place with a holesaw as you could very well damage the sende/wiring/hoses/tank.

The best thing to do is to figure out how to remove that panel and mark the center location over the sender area. And then cut out and install an access panel for future access.

[ch312]

i finally located the screws that were countersunk nearly right through the floor and removed it to access the sending unit.

 

-disconnecting the sending wire puts the gauge to zero

-bridge ground to sending terminals on gauge puts the gauge to full

-my meter (ohms) on sending unit wires says its working properly. full = 35ohms and empty = 245ohms. the ohms change smoothly as i slide the float up and down

-jumper wires directly from gauge to sending unit changes nothing

 

i then held the float and slid it up and down and the gauge moved from full line to 1/4" past full line.

 

 

judging by what ive read online everything seems to be working properly. could it be a ground issue? just go and buy a new sending unit?

[COUNTRYBOY]

TAKE A NEW WIRE AND RUN IT FROM YOUR GAUGE TO YOUR SENDING UNIT AND SEE IF IT WORKS. IF THE WIRE TAHT IS GOING DOWN TO THE SENDING UNIT IS GROUNDING OUT, IT WILL GO FULL ON THE GAUGE BECAUSE THERE IS NO RESISTANCE IN THE CIRCUIT. JUST USE A TEMPORARY WIRE FOR TESTING PURPOSES AND IF IT WORKS THEN JUST RUN A NEW WIRE OR FIND THE PROBLEM.

[Jer]

Sounds to me it might be your gauge, if your sending unit is reading the proper resistance range.

[ch312]

Sounds to me it might be your gauge, if your sending unit is reading the proper resistance range.

 

but, the tests i did on the gauge says the gauge is fine too

 

i just found online that there's 3 switches on the back of the gauge. maybe it was just never set properly in the first place? i'm going to try in the morning. ill try anything after finding a sending unit online for $130

[DRIFTER_016]

but, the tests i did on the gauge says the gauge is fine too

 

i just found online that there's 3 switches on the back of the gauge. maybe it was just never set properly in the first place? i'm going to try in the morning. ill try anything after finding a sending unit online for $130

 

 

Have you tried running a temporary/test line between the sender and guage?

If the wire has started to corrode the higher resistance will effect performance.

Disconnect the wire between the sender and guage and run a temp wire for testing and if it works properly replace the wire from tank to guage.

[ch312]

i hooked a wire direct and the fuel gauge did the same thing. much be a bad sending unit?

 

i looked it up online and the part comes up as a high water alarm. its a WEMA 001305

 

 

is there a brand that makes more reliable units?

[Jer]

I replaced my sending unit last year. I bought a universal, cantilever arm style from the local dealer for only about $30. The original unit ordered from Crestliner (with a donut type float than ran up and down vertically) would have been over $100. It was real easy to adjust to the needed length and a breeze to install once you have access to the top of the tank.