1991 Jeep Cherokee - advice?

[Jonny]

I've got my eye on a 1991 Jeep Cherokee Laredo straight six . Looks like I can make a deal for it.

 

Great shape for a '91, runs well, and I want it for a "beater" to do some gravel roads, boat launching, light hauling, nothing too far from home.

 

Anybody got any helpful comments?

[Nipfisher]

I've got my eye on a 1991 Jeep Cherokee Laredo straight six . Looks like I can make a deal for it.

 

Great shape for a '91, runs well, and I want it for a "beater" to do some gravel roads, boat launching, light hauling, nothing too far from home.

 

Anybody got any helpful comments?

 

Hans, I had a 1995 Jeep Cherokee Sport with the 4 litre High Ouput engine and it was the absolute best vehicle I ever owned. I had to replace the floor after 175K but it never let me down. My wife hated it so I sold it.

[Jonny]

Hans, I had a 1995 Jeep Cherokee Sport with the 4 litre High Ouput engine and it was the absolute best vehicle I ever owned. I had to replace the floor after 175K but it never let me down. My wife hated it so I sold it.

 

Ain't that the way of it, Blair! If mama ain't happy, ain't nobody happy.

 

The motor is the 4.0 L high output 6. The vehicle seems pretty solid. It was rustproofed, so that may have helped.

 

 

 

[SlowPoke]

Very hard on gas in the city, highway mileage is average.

Known for exhaust manifolds blowing out.

Rusty floors can not be avoided; they rust over the frame channels. Easy fix.

Rust around the windshield is common. It will rain inside the day after it rains outside.

Expect to put fuel lines/brake lines on for a safety.

[Jonny]

Very hard on gas in the city, highway mileage is average.

Known for exhaust manifolds blowing out.

Rusty floors can not be avoided; they rust over the frame channels. Easy fix.

Rust around the windshield is common. It will rain inside the day after it rains outside.

Expect to put fuel lines/brake lines on for a safety.

 

Thanks for the reply, SP.

 

I know the gas mileage isn't great. If long drives were in the cards, that would be a major concern but the vehicle would probably seldom go more than 20-30 km from home, and it won't be used as a commuter. I checked the windshield seal as part of the first look-over and it looks tight. I don't see rust and I asked the owner specifically about leaks. He says there are none, but I'll look closer.

 

I'll check on the manifold to try to find out if it's been replaced. Brake and fuel lines - also a good tip, thanks. I'll see what problems develop there. To my eye, the floor looks passable, but again thanks for the heads-up.

 

I haven't bought a used vehicle for a long time. I wonder if used vehicles have to pass an emissions test for a safety?

 

 

 

[Fisherman]

No test required for you live in a zone where pollution is non existant everyone drives non polluting vehicles up there. According to the Drive Clean site, the magic line runs from about Windsor to Ottawa, below that we get augered, above that, do what ever you want. I'm sure if they put all the public transit buses through that check, there'd be a pile of people waiting at the bus stops.

[Jonny]

Thanks, Fisherman. So there's another reason for living this far north.

 

Sometimes in winter it's hard to remember the reasons, especially when paying heating bills.

 

 

 

[SlowPoke]

To my eye, the floor looks passable, but again thanks for the heads-up.

 

The floors may look 100% but you won't be able to see the prone areas until the carpet comes out. Take hammer with you and tap the floors from the sill towards the driveshaft tunnel. The center section over the U channel frame rots first.

 

[Nipfisher]

I forgot about the windshield. I too had to have mine replaced and the frame around it sand blasted. I remember one winter anout 5-6 years back where I was driving it on Nipissing with about 3 feet of snow(powder). It was coming over the hood and I climbed in and out of the windows but the Cherokee pulled my 5 x 7 hut all over that day. Was unstoppable in 4 low.

[Bernie]

Don't forget about tie rod ends, ball joints, control arms, lateral control arm, steering damper and front axle U joints.

If it needs some of this stuff it can add up in a hurry.

I always suggest to my customers to have it checked before you put a nickle in it.

[Muskieman]

Is it the one on Jocko Point Rd? West hand side.. Maroon, tinted windows?

......If so .... Looks 'kinda rough from the road...I seen it every Wednesday and Thursday morning on my way to breakfast...

 

Randy

[Jonny]

Don't forget about tie rod ends, ball joints, control arms, lateral control arm, steering damper and front axle U joints.

If it needs some of this stuff it can add up in a hurry.

I always suggest to my customers to have it checked before you put a nickle in it.

 

OK, Bernie. I've decided I'm going to take it in to a mechanic to check over. Best I can do. I'm just looking for some ideas of what people know about the model. If it can hold up for 4 -5 yrs of occasional use, I'll figure it was a good deal. I've tried it on gravel and on the highway. It runs straight, true and smooth, without any "clunks" or wobble. You can let the steering wheel go at 110 and it runs straight. The steering feels pretty tight. But I'll ask the mechanic specifically to check those things over, thanks.

 

Is it the one on Jocko Point Rd? West hand side.. Maroon, tinted windows?

......If so .... Looks 'kinda rough from the road...I seen it every Wednesday and Thursday morning on my way to breakfast...

 

Randy

 

Yep, Randy, this could be the one, but it doesn't have tinted windows. (??) All the windows are clear glass.

 

It might have looked dirty from road spray (I guess you know what our road is like in the spring if you're going to the community centre regularly!) but it's actually in pretty good shape.

 

Pic attached... winter tires mounted... it has a set of summer radials mounted on the original Jeep spoked rims...

 

 

 

[Jonny]

Don't forget about tie rod ends, ball joints, control arms, lateral control arm, steering damper and front axle U joints.

If it needs some of this stuff it can add up in a hurry.

I always suggest to my customers to have it checked before you put a nickle in it.

 

OK, Bernie. I've decided I'm going to take it in to a mechanic to check over. Best I can do. I'm just looking for some ideas of what people know about the model. If it can hold up for 4 -5 yrs of occasional use, I'll figure it was a good deal. I've tried it on gravel and on the highway. It runs straight, true and smooth, without any "clunks" or wobble. You can let the steering wheel go at 110 and it runs straight. The steering feels pretty tight. But I'll ask the mechanic specifically to check those things over, thanks.

 

Is it the one on Jocko Point Rd? West hand side.. Maroon, tinted windows?

......If so .... Looks 'kinda rough from the road...I seen it every Wednesday and Thursday morning on my way to breakfast...

 

Randy

 

Yep, Randy, this could be the one, but it doesn't have tinted windows. (??) All the windows are clear glass.

 

It might have looked dirty from road spray (I guess you know what our road is like in the spring if you're going to the community centre regularly!) but it's actually in pretty good shape.

 

Pic attached... winter tires mounted... it has a set of summer radials mounted on the original Jeep spoked rims...

 

 

[nofish4me]

Advice: Get a bike.

 

Having said that, only because it was what came to mind when I read the title, it looks good.

[esoxansteel]

I had a 1995 Grand Cherokee LTD, with the inline 6 4.0L HO, the motor is absolute bullet proof, 400 to 500 thousand KM is common, sold mine with 278,000 and compression was still 120 on all cylinders, it had the selec trac transfer case made by New Process which was also flawless, the only trouble I had was water pump, a power steeering pump, exhaust manifiold crack which is common as slowpoke mentioned, and they occur in a area difficult to access, noisey when cold but when engine warms the nise from the exhaust crak will lessen. It just previously sold again, the guy wanter it for offroading and said it had the bestt frame and sub-frame hes seen

[Jonny]

Advice: Get a bike.

 

Having said that, only because it was what came to mind when I read the title, it looks good.

 

I've got a bike. It doesn't do jack for hauling my boat.

[Jonny]

I had a 1995 Grand Cherokee LTD, with the inline 6 4.0L HO, the motor is absolute bullet proof, 400 to 500 thousand KM is common, sold mine with 278,000 and compression was still 120 on all cylinders, it had the selec trac transfer case made by New Process which was also flawless, the only trouble I had was water pump, a power steeering pump, exhaust manifiold crack which is common as slowpoke mentioned, and they occur in a area difficult to access, noisey when cold but when engine warms the nise from the exhaust crak will lessen. It just previously sold again, the guy wanter it for offroading and said it had the bestt frame and sub-frame hes seen

 

AHHH... that's kind of like some of the stuff I've been reading but having a hard time believing. I've always thought that Chrysler products were unredeemable. Seems people who have owned certain ones think different! It's an education!

 

 

 

[nofish4me]

I've got a bike. It doesn't do jack for hauling my boat.

 

[ketchenany]

I have a 1995 Grand C 370+ km parked in my garage since last July, amazing Engine. Could not bring myself to sell it. Two small rust spots but no flor problems that I can see.

But I may. . . A good reliable vehicle all around. Good luck with your 91

[SlowPoke]

Pic attached... winter tires mounted... it has a set of summer radials mounted on the original Jeep spoked rims...

 

Rockers are shot and so are the wheel wells. It will pass safety body-wise but you can bet the floors are in tough shape too.

Do not remove those wheel flares unless you are prepared to replace the 3 brackets that hold each of them on; they will fall apart in your hands. They're scarce from the dealer and it might be cheaper to go with aftermarket flares should you decide to repair the rust.

95% chance that will have the NP231 transfer case and a Dana 30 Front axle / Dana 35 Rear axle. Great transfer case and easy to find should you have a problem. The NP242 Case (selec-trac) is also great but harder to find. Dana 30 fronts are good, Dana 35 rear are prone to axle break when abused. Normal driving and they're fine; just not as tough as a Dana 44.

[Jonny]

I have a 1995 Grand C 370+ km parked in my garage since last July, amazing Engine. Could not bring myself to sell it. Two small rust spots but no flor problems that I can see.

But I may. . . A good reliable vehicle all around. Good luck with your 91

 

Thanks, Ketch. I had a friend mention that the engine may be a European design? Anyway, good comments on the motor. This Laredo has 193 K on the clock.

 

 

Rockers are shot and so are the wheel wells. It will pass safety body-wise ...

 

Damn good to know, Slowpoke. Sounds like you know your stuff re: these vehicles! I'm not rough on a vehicle, 4 x 4 or not, so I might be OK. All grist for the mill though. Seller told me the rockers were re-done. I banged on them and they seemed solid, though the paint job leaves something to be desired. I won't yank on those fender flares!

 

Sounds like if I buy it I may be the last owner.

Edited March 21, 2011 by Jocko

[Bernie]

Oops, older model, doesn't have rear control arms.

Never mind, it has rear leaf springs.

Edited March 21, 2011 by Bernie

[Jonny]

So, bottom line, could this vehicle still be a good buy for some bush running (nothing too strenuous, but potholes and washboard) and a bit of hauling here and there? Or is it likely to be a waste of time and money?

 

I think about my uncle. He once had an old tractor for sale (cheap) and a guy came to have a look at it. The guy gave him a litany of what he thought was wrong with it and finally my uncle told him, "You know what you want, buddy? You want a new tractor."

 

And walked away from him.

[SlowPoke]

So, bottom line, could this vehicle still be a good buy for some bush running (nothing too strenuous, but potholes and washboard) and a bit of hauling here and there? Or is it likely to be a waste of time and money?

 

I think about my uncle. He once had an old tractor for sale (cheap) and a guy came to have a look at it. The guy gave him a litany of what he thought was wrong with it and finally my uncle told him, "You know what you want, buddy? You want a new tractor."

 

And walked away from him.

 

Depends on price. If it's $500-$700, and $200-$300 to get it on the road then yes. I've seen lots sell for $1000 that would appear to be in better condition but I haven't seen that one in person.

For all their deficiencies, it would probably be perfect for what you want and might even last another 10 years. They're damn near bullet proof but far from pretty!

[Jonny]

Thanks for the responses, gentlemen.

 

I took the Jeep in to a certified shop to have a safety check estimate made on it. It needed only some brake line and gas line work to pass. About $200 of work. The mechanic said it was in excellent shape for a '91.

 

Long and short... I bought it.

 

It came out at just a little more than you suggested, Slowpoke, but I couldn't pass it up. I have a feeling that one like this won't come along every day.