Braking systems on Baitcasters

[cynmar]

I have to admit that I don't know a lot about the inner workings of my reels. I have owned a Daiwa Procaster for years but am looking at a new reel. Can anyone give me the advantages of the different systems? The Magforce system of Daiwa seems to work alright as long as you adjust the "tension" knob for the weight of the lure and then adjust the mag force. I see a number of reels with the right side plate coming off the access the centrifugal weights I imagine for more or less "tension?" . Do these plates have a tendency to fall off over time, or at least get loose? I don't change reels every year. Any advice is appreciated.

[EC1]

Both are supposed to have their merits, while the centrifrugals stop the spool from spinning too fast at the beginning, while magnetics stop the spool from spinning too fast at the end.

 

But depending on your price range, why not look at reels that feature both? At the moment, the Abu Garcia Revo Premier and Pflueger Patriarch's feature both in one reel. I honestly don't know whether the 2 brakes are gimicks though. I have played with 2 baitcasters so far, one having only magnetic, and the other having both centrifrugal and magnetic braking systems.

 

I don't find that I backlash more often with either reel, but that it seems I always backlash when I get excited/anxious on the cast.

 

Oh yup, and if you ask here and on many other forums, your answer will likely be a citica or curado depending on your price range . I honestly don't care much for either, just because I don't like the way that they look.

Edited August 20, 2010 by EC1

[Gregoire]

Do these plates have a tendency to fall off over time, or at least get loose? I don't change reels every year. Any advice is appreciated.

 

I have a rapala r-type a, revo winch and a revo toro. I have only been using these reels for a year, but have not had a side plate come off. The Abu reels have plates that can only be removed if you unscrew the side plate, whereas the r-type has a turn and lock system. The locking system has loosened up lately on the r-type, but I have abused that reel as my winch was in the shop for repairs for much of the summer. So to answer your question: the side plate does not seem to fall off, but I could see it happening on a reel with a locking system rather than a screw system. I prefer the srew system, as it is not that hard to unscrew. However it does make on the fly adjustments harder.

[OhioFisherman]

It has been my experience that once you get a reel properly tuned in there isn`t much cause to open it up except for cleaning. Side plate on the older Curados unscrews and will come off, newer ones pivots, pins hold it on. Still not much chance of loosing it on the older Curados, unless you work at it?

 

No experience with anything but older Abu and Shimano bait casters to speak of, a few casts here and there at friends urging to try out what they bought. I have a mix of Abu and Shimano reels, Abu`s generally older, different brake and adjustment systems, not really much adjustment needed unless a radical weight difference in lures?

 

Different approaches by different mfgs to make the professional over run problem disappear, some just spin offs of old methods. Old school Abu`s had centrifugal weights also, just a different look to them. When you bought the reels the spare parts tubes had light, medium, and heavy brakes, one set was installed on the reel and you had to take it apart to change them.

 

LOL in the old days we used to put a little tooth paste on the main gear and pinion and run them over night with a low speed motor to lap them in to make them smoother.

[Garry2Rs]

I have to admit that I don't know a lot about the inner workings of my reels. I have owned a Daiwa Procaster for years but am looking at a new reel. Can anyone give me the advantages of the different systems? The Magforce system of Daiwa seems to work alright as long as you adjust the "tension" knob for the weight of the lure and then adjust the mag force. I see a number of reels with the right side plate coming off the access the centrifugal weights I imagine for more or less "tension?" . Do these plates have a tendency to fall off over time, or at least get loose? I don't change reels every year. Any advice is appreciated.

 

There are two controls on a bait cast reel.

One is a friction brake that presses on the end of the spool axle.

This brake slows and stops the spool at the end of the cast so that there isn't an over run. Once you learn to stop the spool with your thumb you can loosen this knob off completely, you won't need it anymore.

 

The second control is a centrifugal or magnetic brake on the spool itself.

 

This brake acts to control the rapid acceleration of the spool at the start of the cast.

 

At the start of the cast the rod imparts energy to the bait, and in those first milliseconds the sudden jerk on the spool can cause it to be turning faster that the line is actually going out.

 

When this happens loose coils of line form on the spool. If these loose coils should foul each other, the baits stops dead in the air and crashes to the water. The spool continues to spin, loosening many more wraps of line and you have a major birds nest.

 

The proper setting for this brake will change when casting with or against the wind, or with big light weight baits that slow down quickly in the air. It will also change between rods, if the reel isn't dedicated to one rod.

 

Some reels allow this brake to be adjusted from the outside, some require the side plate to be opened, or removed from the reel and some require the reel to be partially disassembled.

 

Obviously the easier it is to make these adjustments the better. Not dropping the spare parts overboard is the operators responsibility!

 

In recent times many reels have fixed the side plate to the reel in a fashion that allows it to pivot or swivel, but not come off of the reel frame. This seems to be a good idea to me.

 

If you are looking at a quality reel the tolerances are tight enough that I'm sure you will never have a problem with the side plate loosening up etc.

Garry2R's

[cynmar]

Thanks for all the input, it has given me some much needed information. I only have 2 baitcasters and one is on my slip float rod. This baitcaster has to deal with all the different lures, jigs etc. I may use so I have to change the friction knob and the braking fairly often. Your comments have really helped.

 

Bill

[Roy]

When it comes to baitcasters, (and a slew of other topics) Garry`s the man to talk to.

[uglyfish]

garry explained it great!

 

basically, both breaking systems are there to help, but learning to use ur thumb is the best thing u can do. that way u have control of the spool from the start of the cast to the time it hits the water. i rarely even use the breaks on any of my reels. unless in throwing into heavy winds, and even then, i only use minimal breaking.

 

one thing to add though, only because i know all the guys on here will just tell u to buy a shimano reel cause they're bias and thats what they use lol...

 

to access the breaks on shimano reels, u have to remove the side plate and manually adjust each break. gets really annoying.

 

some companies, quantum is the best example, has incorporated a dial on the side of the reel to adjust the breaks. saves a lot of time when fishing, and can be dialed into the exact spot u wanna set them.

[Garry2Rs]

Quantum uses both Magnetic and Centrifugal systems on different priced reels. As far as I know, these are all adjustable from the outside...BUT...Only the top couple of reels actually have more than a few settings. On mid priced reels, although the scale reads 0 to 10, in-fact there are only OFF and three working settings.

 

Other makers may do the same, I don't know, but I have three Quantum reels from cheap to Oh-my-God and that's how they work.

 

The Shimano system has 7 settings from 0 to six brakes on. I don't know about every reel in the line-up, but on the better reels the side plate is attached and swivels out of the way when a locking-screw is loosened.

 

This isn't quite as fast as the external dial system, but you never accidentally change it either...

Garry2R's

[uglyfish]

Quantum uses both Magnetic and Centrifugal systems on different priced reels. As far as I know, these are all adjustable from the outside...BUT...Only the top couple of reels actually have more than a few settings. On mid priced reels, although the scale reads 0 to 10, in-fact there are only OFF and three working settings.

 

Other makers may do the same, I don't know, but I have three Quantum reels from cheap to Oh-my-God and that's how they work.

 

The Shimano system has 7 settings from 0 to six brakes on. I don't know about every reel in the line-up, but on the better reels the side plate is attached and swivels out of the way when a locking-screw is loosened.

 

This isn't quite as fast as the external dial system, but you never accidentally change it either...

Garry2R's

 

 

good points garry. however, i have never accidently changed the brake setting on any of my reels. the way it is designed, it would be really hard to accidently change it.

 

its still comes to to one thing.... which reel suits ur needs and ur preference most.

[Garry2Rs]

good points garry. however, i have never accidently changed the brake setting on any of my reels. the way it is designed, it would be really hard to accidently change it.

 

its still comes to to one thing.... which reel suits ur needs and ur preference most.

 

 

Both companies make fine reels. I have never accidentally change the settings on my Quantum reels either, but on the Abu Mag 5, with the adjuster on the edge of the sideplate, it was a nightmare!

[PainInTheBass]

As Garry pointed out, there are generally 2 mechanisms on a baitcaster that control the cast - the tension knob and then the other braking system.

 

The tension knob applies axial force onto the tip of the spool pin. The friction must be overcome by the cast to get the spool turning. Additionally, the friction serves to bring the spinning spool to a stop. Most reels are equipped with this (I only say most because I have never seen one without, but cannot say for sure).

 

The "other" braking system is what is usually advertised with the reel - magnetic, centrifugal, or dual.

 

Centrifugal brakes are usually small brake tabs installed radially along the spool. These tabs, as the spool begins to spin, move outwards along their tracks (from the centrifugal force of the spool's spin) and contact an outer race. The friction between the tabs and the outer race is what results int he braking force of this system. The braking force for this system is proportional to the spool speed. In other words, the braking force increases as the spool speed increases. So, at low speeds, very little braking force is applied, and at higher speeds, more force is applied, slowing the spool spin even moreso at higher spool speeds. This can theoretically minimize maximum casting distance by the application of too much force at the spool's top speeds. This braking system works well for slow spool speed techniques such as flipping and pitching.

 

Magnetic brakes are comprised of magnets that are adjusted to different distances from a cup attached to the spool. The distance between the magnets and the cup creates a magentic force that resists the spinning of the spool. The braking force is constant and is applied evenly throughout a cast - from beginning to end. This can limit the distance of casts by applying too much braking force at the end of casts when the spool naturally spins slower. It can also limit the distance on slow spool speed techniques such as pitching and flipping.

 

Daiwa's Magforce V and Z systems differ from the normal magnetic braking systems in that the cup is installed along a track that extends outwards towards the magnets as the spool spins faster, and retracts at slower spool speeds. Effectively, this minimizes the braking force at the beginning of casts - similarly to centrifugal brakes, while also minimizing the braking at top spool speeds. It is Daiwa's attempt to get the best of both worlds.

 

Dual braking systems have in fact, included both worlds.

 

PainInTheBass

[12 Volt Man]

with my Shimano's, I never touch the internal centrifugal brakes after the intial setting.

 

I set 3 on, 3 off.

 

and never really touch them again.

 

what I do adjust is the cast control knob when I change lures.

 

it should be set so it falls at about 1 foot per second when you press down your thumb bar.

 

then, cast away.

 

if the brakes are set right, you really shouldn't have to touch them very often, if ever.

Edited August 23, 2010 by 12 Volt Man