PainInTheBass

I also have a Smokercraft (Millentia) and find that depending on the size and configuration of the guides on spinning rods, they will not fit into the rod locker tubes. My solution is to not put them in since my more valuable rods are all baitcasters. I haveheard of people removing the tubes and being able to fit more rods into those slots. I am not sure if that will work for allowing a spinning rod to fit since the hole would still be only slightly larger than the tube. If it does work, be careful putting your rods into the holder, and removing them. I fear the loss of some guides.

What was the lure weight you were trying to cast and what rod is the Curado paired with. You may be having issues with a rod that is too powerful to load properly with the lure you are casting? Just an idea.

I was under the impression that one of the reasons for not fishing for bass during the spanw (particularly on beds) is so that their eggs/fry do not get eaten while they are off of their beds. I think that is the only real time when I would not want anglers catching bass.

I have an Abu c3 4600 that I use for my deep cranking. It is my only non-Daiwa reel that I use, and I love the thing. It casts heavier lures incredibly well. The non-disengaging levelwind system is great for ensuring that the line lay is always even on the spool. The non-disengaging levelwind means that on a cast, the levelwind continues to move side to side as the spool spins. I do not think that most Daiwa round reels have this. While it helps with line lay, it also means that some of the energy that goes into a cast is used for driving the levelwind system. However, numerous aftermarket upgrades are avilable to minimize this energy loss. I have done this to my c3 which is why it casts so well. While I cannot say how it performs in comparison with the other reels mentioned, I do not think you can really go wrong with such a tried and true round reel.

Flukes (white, baby bass) White double bladed spinnerbait Lipless Cranks (silver black/silver blue)

Almost all of the reels in my current lineup have been bought off eBay or from various fishing message boards. I have also bought a computer processor from someone off of Kijiji. Thus far, I have lucked out, and had great experiences with people. I am going to be selling some stuff, and some of others' experiences will hopefully prep me for dealing with flaky buyers and casual inquiries.

Isn't this message from last year? It's dated 2012

As others have said, the E series is a very popular platform that has since been replaced with teh G series. The G series is based on the frame from the lower end Caenan frame. By many accounts, it is not as refined as the E series. The Chronarch E is a repainted Curado E series reel in case you want a Curado E series from teh current lineup. For reliability and performance, ou cannot really go wrong with a Curado E. The reason they skipped F is because in the Shimano lineup, F series reels denote front drag spinning reels. R series denote rear drag spinning reels.

Last year was the year of the soft plastics for me. I can proudly say that I caught most of my fish all year long on soft plastics. Prior to last year, I had rarely used anything outside of hard plastic lures. With that said, I am hoping to continue improving my soft plastic skills as well as learning to fish bass jigs better. I think I have caught all of 3 fish on bass jigs in my life. I also want to keep a better, more detailed fishing log.

I agree. If there is any real difference, it is likely within standard deviation.

I have never seen any increase in casting distance personally either. However, here is the reason: in order to determine whether casting distance does indeeed improve, you must rewrap the exact same blank with the guides and test cast. Even though 2 blanks could be the exact same model, from the same manufacturer and lineup, each blank is slightly different. To eliminate all other variables, you need to wrap the same blank with the same components and test cast each with the same reel. Casting distance or not; I prefer micros for the improved feel.

This is why I spiral wrap my micro guides. I get to use the same number of guides and eliminate line rub. I also get the benefit of eliminating torque on the blank and on the wrists when fighting fish. The following link is to a page from Angler's Resource - Fuji's exclusive rod component distributor in the US. http://anglersresource.net/TheoryoftheKRConcept.aspx This page describes Fuji's KR concept guides which are micro sized guides for spinning rods. It explains better than I could their theory on micro guides and the potential improvement on performance - including casting distance. There is a lot of talk in rod building that the reasons mass rod manufacturers have not as quickly adopted micro guides and spiral wraps and the such does not have as much to do with performance as it does producing a product for the masses.

I build rods with guides that are on the border of micro sized. For me, the big draw is the weight balance of a rod built with small guides. The smaller guides reduces the weight in the tip of the rod, which improves the feel of the rod IMO. The better balance can make the rod feel lighter and more sensitive. With respect to reducing line slap; that is one of the theories regarding guide placement on a spinning rod. The choker guide basically brings the guide train down to the size of guide that you will be using out to the tip. On a cast, the line oscillates around the spool as it comes off. The larger the guides, the wider the oscillation, and the more line slap you have, impacting casting distance. Smaller guides help to tame the line slap and improve casting. WHen picking guides, the rule of thumb I got with is pick the smallest guide I can while passing all knots/leaders through. Currently, I haave used as small as size 4 guides with 30 lb fluoro tied with an alberto knot to 50 lb braid.

Daiwa S O L baitcaster and a custom ultralight baitcasting rod for soft plastics. I caught my PB bass on that as well as a musky. Too much fun.

I am the same. Cept I have no cottage. Just owning a cottage would be an upgrade.

An incredibly difficult decision, no doubt. However; I believe that it is the right decision for you. You have obviously mulled it over quite a bit before reaching this conclusion. However, it is one based on the knowledge of your own personal weaknesses, and the clarity to understand what matters most. I applaud you, sir.

The theory behind loosening the drag is that the fiber washers that are in the drag stack compress over time, reducing the effective drag range of your reel over time. I do it as a precaution. It doesn't hurt.

The VBS system is a traditional centrifugal braking system. Depending on the number of brakes engaged, as the spool spins, differing number of brakes move outwards at high speeds and contact the metal race to create a braking force to slow down the top speeds of the spool in order to control birdsnests. Different numbers and types of brakes have different effective braking forces. If you are using too heavy/too light a lure, you will not notice a difference in performance. Or, if your spool tension knob is too tight, you then likely will see no difference in performance.

I tend to use a leader as long as my rod. It allows to a number of reties before having to change my leader altogether.

As others have already pointed out, you are reaching the lower limits of what most commercial low profile baitcasters can cast consistently with distance and accuracy. When casting light lures (<1/4 oz), your rod and reel will limit your abilities. If the rod will not oad properly with the weight being casted, then you will lose distance. If the spool on the baitcaster is heavy, it will not startup as quickly. In oder to cast these light lures, you need both. While your reel may be capable to casting down to 1/8 + plastic, your rod may not be loading preoperly.

I hope my dunk in solvent, swich and soak, swish and soak; dry, then repeat in new solvent doesn't leave grit behind lol. But I do want an ultrasonic cleaner so that i don't have to worry about that anymore lol. Nerdy explanation: the vibration causes cavitation around objects within the liquid,which breaks dirt away from objects such as bearings. I have heard of people using compressed air as well as the pressurized carb cleaner with great results. I just stay away in case lol. You are right: Do not use solvents on plastic parts or painted surfaces - use a diluted solution of simple green or simply soap and water..

I've had reel techs caution against the use of pressurized air becuse the force can actually damage the races and tracks within these micro bearings. After I soak my bearings in Acetone (pure, scent free stuff, not the nail stuff), I spin the bearings on the end of a dowel to throw off excess acetone, then allow them to air dry. I then put 1 drop of Quantum hot sauce oil in each bearing and reinstall. But, I am not a reel tech.

To further what Garry said; New reels often come over lubricated by the factory in an effort to maximize the longevity of a reel's out of box feel since they expect the majority of fishermen to not service their reels. You can do what Garry said, or simply use the reel. Over time, the grease will work its way out of the bearings, and loosen up. My brother has one Citica that casts a mile (further than his other Citicas and even his Curado) because it is his most used reel and is well worked in. With respect to the rod Garry is also right. Rods have recommended lure weight ranges in order to let the angler know what weights will load up the blank properly on a cast. If the blank doesn't load, you do not get much transfer of energy from your backswing to the flight of the lure.

The Steez is made of magnesium, which increases the price, and has tighter tolerances than any of the other reels mentioned. It is the flagship bass reel for Daiwa (as I believe the Core is for Shimano). I don't know if I can justify the price gap between the Steez and Core as they weight similar and have similar applications.

The temps at this time of year tend to speed up curing. Do you have AC cranked and are wrapping in the basement? My first real guess is that your rod finish was not mixed in the right ratio. Improper resin:hardener will prevent proper curing. Perhaps applying heat may help the finish cure. If the cat is thin, you might be able to get away with another thin cot of finish on top.