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Posted

first start by finding all the point where the water is coming in then tell us where they are. I would mark every spot in the boat that is letting water in too.

Posted

Thanks GWB, Shore Lunch and Wormdunker. I will mark all major leaks, then jb weld all the major leaks, and finally use the rubberized paint to finish it off. Once again thank you very much. I picked up a boat, motor and trailer for 380. It is my first boat and I am sure everyone has a story about their first boat. It is a 16 ft with a 9.2. she doesn't go fast but its better than padding!

Posted

I forgot to give further instructions. Make sure u roughen up the rivet areas with a wire brush to give the JB weld a rough surface to bond. I used my 1/2" electric drill with a stiff wire brush attachment to remove old paint, & roughen up the aluminum a bit. Allow the JB weld to cure overnight. Good luck

Posted

Mark the rivots that are leaking,drill them out and one or two extra on each side,rough up the alum,add sealant and rerivot with waterproof alum rivots.If the rivots are loose,then go with a rivot thats 1/16 bigger.

Buck rivoting is the best option IMO,most people dont have the tools for it,or the know how!

Posted

I used a marine product called gluvit had to buff/sand bottom of the boat and coat it . the product is like a liquid epoxy only catch is you have to paint over it as it is not uv stable. I did a 14 tinner for 50.00.

Posted (edited)

Before you go plastering your boat with JB weld, and sealant, you should try tightening the leaky rivets.

 

I had an old aluminum that leaked like a sive. Me and a budy thightened all of the rivets. There where a few that couldn't be tightened, so I marked them, and sealed with 3M 5200 marine adhesive sealant. I've used JB weld in the past, and it ended up cracking on me, and the leak came back. 3M 5200 will not crack, it takes a long time to cure, and remains flexable once cured.

 

To tighten the rivets, I used an pneumatic air hammar on one side, and a heavy sledge hammer head on the other side. Just a few hits with the air hammar, and they tighten right up. It took about an 1-1/2 hour to do the entire boat.

 

Doesn't leak a singe drop now.

Edited by F-is-H
Posted

Fix (tighten) or replace all loose rivets. Will be some work but will give long lasting results when done properly.

Posted

Before you go plastering your boat with JB weld, and sealant, you should try tightening the leaky rivets.

 

I had an old aluminum that leaked like a sive. Me and a budy thightened all of the rivets. There where a few that couldn't be tightened, so I marked them, and sealed with 3M 5200 marine adhesive sealant. I've used JB weld in the past, and it ended up cracking on me, and the leak came back. 3M 5200 will not crack, it takes a long time to cure, and remains flexable once cured.

 

To tighten the rivets, I used an pneumatic air hammar on one side, and a heavy sledge hammer head on the other side. Just a few hits with the air hammar, and they tighten right up. It took about an 1-1/2 hour to do the entire boat.

 

Doesn't leak a singe drop now.

 

As I mentioned,Buck rivoting!

What you mention will work, definitely!Except that no one knows if its been done already!

Best to drill the heads off and knock them out and use new rivots and a touch of sealant!

Yes you need an air hammer with proper attachments and a good peice of heavy steel,with a good flat edge!And some ear plugs!

I dread that type of work!Noise wise!

Posted

Before you go plastering your boat with JB weld, and sealant, you should try tightening the leaky rivets.

 

I had an old aluminum that leaked like a sive. Me and a budy thightened all of the rivets. There where a few that couldn't be tightened, so I marked them, and sealed with 3M 5200 marine adhesive sealant. I've used JB weld in the past, and it ended up cracking on me, and the leak came back. 3M 5200 will not crack, it takes a long time to cure, and remains flexable once cured.

 

To tighten the rivets, I used an pneumatic air hammar on one side, and a heavy sledge hammer head on the other side. Just a few hits with the air hammar, and they tighten right up. It took about an 1-1/2 hour to do the entire boat.

 

Doesn't leak a singe drop now.

 

 

:thumbsup_anim:

:good:

 

Bang on the $$$$........ Do it once do it right....

While you're there a slather of any of the above mentioned products over the exposed rivets wouldn't hurt either.....

"GOOP Marine" works wonders as well.

 

Randy

:canadian:

Posted

Before you go plastering your boat with JB weld, and sealant, you should try tightening the leaky rivets.

 

I had an old aluminum that leaked like a sive. Me and a budy thightened all of the rivets. There where a few that couldn't be tightened, so I marked them, and sealed with 3M 5200 marine adhesive sealant. I've used JB weld in the past, and it ended up cracking on me, and the leak came back. 3M 5200 will not crack, it takes a long time to cure, and remains flexable once cured.

 

To tighten the rivets, I used an pneumatic air hammar on one side, and a heavy sledge hammer head on the other side. Just a few hits with the air hammar, and they tighten right up. It took about an 1-1/2 hour to do the entire boat.

 

Doesn't leak a singe drop now.

 

 

Does a good looking blonde come with the air hammer?

Posted

And some ear plugs!

 

 

You are very correct sir. Definitively need ear protection!

 

As for the blonde :rolleyes: I depends on who you borrow the air hammer from..

Posted

I used an epoxy from West Systems on the bottom of my Tracker because I couldn't get at the other side to buck the rivets. Its called G-Flex, do a google search on it you'll get a lof of good information.

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