scugpg Posted August 23, 2009 Report Share Posted August 23, 2009 Hi all - I'm redoing the wood floor in my aluminum V-hull and I want to lighten the floor up. What do you guys use for wood on the floor? Would it be lighter to brace it with some aluminum? Its such a small boat so the lighter I can make it with leaving the floor in the better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pike slayer Posted August 23, 2009 Report Share Posted August 23, 2009 post a pic of it and we may come up with some great ideas! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2 tone z71 Posted August 23, 2009 Report Share Posted August 23, 2009 whats in it now, was it manufactured with a floor, or is it a previous backyard floor install Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny Posted August 23, 2009 Report Share Posted August 23, 2009 Interesting problem. I'd consider this: Lay a 3 to 4"perforated pipe along the keel, leading to a bilge well at the back by your drain plug. Lay in 1/2" marine grade plywood, cut to fit. Drill some small filling holes in strategic spots and fill the "V" cavity with rigid expanding foam. Maybe a dumb idea, but it was the first thing that came to mind for lightness of construction. The plywood would protect the foam and the foam would support the plywood. Cover the plywood with weatherproof indoor/outdoor carpet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomO Posted August 23, 2009 Report Share Posted August 23, 2009 On my jon boat I got some thin aluminum 4X8 sheets. Then i cut them to fit. I got some 4x8 sheets of stryo foam 1and 1/2 inches thick and cut them to fit betwwen the ribs for floor support and floatation. Then I carpeted it. Looks good for a homemade job.This was over 20 years ago and it still holds up fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scugpg Posted August 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2009 It was a backyard install. Very sturdy 5/8'' plywood with a 2x4 frame underneath. I weighed the one piece it was 38lbs. I like the aluminum /foam idea. Would a 4x8 sheet be expensive? Wouldn't take much support underneath for that. I need to raise it up a bit as I have plastic 1'' conduit with the electrical wires overtop of the ribs as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomO Posted August 23, 2009 Report Share Posted August 23, 2009 I think the aluminum was $130.00 for 2 sheets but that was 20 years ago. I got the foam at Lowes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen Posted August 23, 2009 Report Share Posted August 23, 2009 I used the 1/2" marine grade plywood. It is not as heavy as normal plywood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerritt Posted August 23, 2009 Report Share Posted August 23, 2009 I used 2" aluminum square tube and 5/8" marine grade plywood.. as glen said, it is not as heavy as normal ply.. G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinker Posted August 23, 2009 Report Share Posted August 23, 2009 I used PT fence boards on mine. They say PT wood will corrode aluminum, but I thinks its Bull........mine has been in there for almost 6 years so far. No issues. S. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scugpg Posted August 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2009 Where is a good spot to get the marine ply? I know its more money but if its lighter I'll consider it. It sounds like that route along with some aluminum underframe will be the lightest and most cost-effective plan If I decided to go with a 2x4 or 1x4 wooden underframe, is there any wood that is signifigantly lighter than your run-of-the-mill 2x4's? Using a 4x8 aluminum sheet would be the best, but if its around $200 that probably not the best bet for me and my setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowPoke Posted August 23, 2009 Report Share Posted August 23, 2009 (edited) Marine Ply is the way to go.... $125 for a sheet of 3/4" at Hamilton Plywood (Stoney Creek). I have a sheet in my garage if you want to weigh it. Marine ply is signicantly lighter than regular ply and probably half the weight of pressure treated. Aluminum is not as light as you think. I'm doing my floor with 3/16" sheet and need 1/4" underbracing to avaoid deflection. The boat originally had 1/2" ply and felt sturdy. If you want to lose weight, try Jenny Craig - or- 1/2" marine ply. Does your boat have floatation foam? I removed and replaced about 200 lbs of soaked foam in mine. It was costly to replace but it will be a huge weight savings. The new foam will benefit you in weight savings and provide a study base for your flooring. A 2-part pour kit (1gal part A & 1gal part B ) will cost about $140 at Heritage Marine in London. One kit did one side of my 18' deep V. Edited August 23, 2009 by SlowPoke Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomO Posted August 23, 2009 Report Share Posted August 23, 2009 WHEN I put my foam sheeting in I wraped it with clear wide packing tape to keep the water off it . So far so good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
POLLIWOGG Posted August 23, 2009 Report Share Posted August 23, 2009 spraying foam into the bottom cavity may lead to more problems if it ever gets water laying in it, if the foam soaks up water you could end up with a 100lb or so and have to rip it all out. If you want to add extra foam use underground grade SM and maybe glue it to the floor so it stays off the bottom off the boat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scugpg Posted August 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2009 Anywhere in London to get the marine ply? I'd like to give the 1/2'' a shot and use some aluminum to brace it underneath. All the foam in the boat seems dry so I'm ok there. I've attached some pics. Basically I want the floor to be level with the bottom of the bench so nothing will slide underneath it. I really hate carpentry stuff even though this should only take about an hour or less to rebuild:P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowPoke Posted August 23, 2009 Report Share Posted August 23, 2009 Marine ply in London? Good luck, nobody stocks it. Try Jim, at Heritage Marine, he can order it for you. It doesn't appear you had floatation foam in the hull so no need to worry about that. In fact, the plywood will offset the extra weight in floatation. What are the tubes for? Can they be used for underbracing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scugpg Posted August 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2009 Marine ply in London? Good luck, nobody stocks it. Try Jim, at Heritage Marine, he can order it for you.It doesn't appear you had floatation foam in the hull so no need to worry about that. In fact, the plywood will offset the extra weight in floatation. What are the tubes for? Can they be used for underbracing? Ok cool maybe I'll talk to Jim. Though M&P or Copps might've had some. One pipe has 2ga wire for the batterys up to the bowmount. The other has the electrical for the aerator and lights to the front. Wouldn't be an issue to use them for bracing but it seemed easier to sit the 2x4's on the groove towards the sides and build up and around them. On my last floor I used 2x4's stood up so they would be level with the bottom of the benches. Than ran 2x2s across and built a frame than cut the wood to suit and carpeted. Very sturdy but the larger piece was 40lb! I'd like to cut that in half if possible and still have the floor level with the bottom of the bench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerritt Posted August 23, 2009 Report Share Posted August 23, 2009 Like this?.... I used aluminum Angle and Square tube. Attached to the benches with structural epoxy and Stainless steel screws. 5/8" marine ply attached with SS screws and marine vinyl. Hope this gives you an idea on what is possible. G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scugpg Posted August 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2009 Gerritt! Thanks for posting the pics that's exactly what I'd like to achieve. Is the angle and tube all 1/8''? I could easily get away with 1/2 or maybe even 3/8 with that kind of frame. Nice work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerritt Posted August 23, 2009 Report Share Posted August 23, 2009 yes, it is all 1/8" and is available just about anywhere. Good luck on your project! G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scugpg Posted August 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2009 Perfect. I think metal supermarkets would be the cheapest place in the London area? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerritt Posted August 23, 2009 Report Share Posted August 23, 2009 I went to a local metal supplier, and avoided the mark-up the larger retail chains charge... this may be your best bet. Again good luck and if you need any advice give me a PM.. G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowPoke Posted August 23, 2009 Report Share Posted August 23, 2009 Perfect. I think metal supermarkets would be the cheapest place in the London area? It would be a lot less effort to just buy Gerritt's boat! MS, sadly, is about the cheapest in town. Ask about off-cuts and don't settle for thier first quote. Better prices if you go in person. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scugpg Posted August 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 (edited) It would be a lot less effort to just buy Gerritt's boat! MS, sadly, is about the cheapest in town. Ask about off-cuts and don't settle for thier first quote. Better prices if you go in person. Ouch....called today and it's about $90 for the aluminum to build my frame! 16ft of angle and 12ft of tube. 1/8'' Does that sound right? It's only $20 to build a wood frame maybe I'll put up with the extra weight. Edited August 24, 2009 by scugog Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny Posted August 24, 2009 Report Share Posted August 24, 2009 The reason I mentioned the rigid expanding foam is because it's slightly flexible and will not soak up water - it's weatherproof. The stuff I mean is the 'large crack and gap" foam you can buy at Can. Tire or building supply stores, sometimes for as little as $5 a can. The stuff expands like crazy and bonds itself to surfaces, though it's "cuttable" with a razor knife, sandable and paintable. It might be something to consider even if only for tight spots, like the bow, where building under-floor support might be difficult. I say slightly flexible, but it's not flexible enough to give if covered with plywood to walk on. Anyway, good luck with the project, no matter how you do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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