moemoe Posted May 14, 2009 Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 I am going up to my wifes family cottage this weekend with the plan to put up some tongue and grove pine ceiling, The product is 5/16 tongue and grove from lowes, which they have a "cottage grade" which seems pretty decent, a little rough but not nearly as ugly looking as rona's "b" grade. If anyone is in the market, the price is under 9 bucks for 14 sq ft, which from what I have researched seems pretty reasonable. I consider myself reasonably skilled when it comes to carpentry but i was wondering with an air nailer, what size/type of nails should I use? and do I need to put up strapping or should the regular 2 ft truss span be adequate? Also anyone have any pointers or tips? Thanks Moe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerritt Posted May 14, 2009 Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 it is pretty lightweight stuff.. 18g 1-1/4" Brads should suffice. 24" centres will definatly hold up the board. I would also use glue on the tongue and groove. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushart Posted May 14, 2009 Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 if your covering up old ceiling tile or even drywall--I would consider strapping it- Old tiles have some give so when the nail goes through the pine --through the tile and into your truss--it may compress the tile somewhat and more than likely split your v-joint. Bushart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moemoe Posted May 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 (edited) Thanks, never thought about gluing them, the ceilings never being covered yet, so I am starting fresh Edited May 14, 2009 by moemoe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallyboss Posted May 14, 2009 Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 I did it in my basement and I used an electric brad nailer and it worked good. I had to put up strapping just because I had to level out a bad drywall job. If it is fairly good quality I don't think that I would worry about the glue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Posted May 14, 2009 Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 "cottage grade" usually means loose or missing knots as well. One thing to think about is if you intend on cutting out the loose or missing knots. If you are fine, if not I would consider backing of some sort so you don't see the vapour barrier behind it. (You are putting up vapour barrier aren't you?). Be sure not to just butt joint your joints, always a better finished job if you lap your joints. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radnine Posted May 14, 2009 Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 You married a girl with a family cottage? Well done. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twocoda Posted May 14, 2009 Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 You married a girl with a family cottage? Well done.Jim good for her you mean ...cuz it translates to free skilled labour for her family... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bushart Posted May 14, 2009 Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 I married into that muskoka cottage family---after many years I re-wrote the defintion COTTAGE = 2ND JOB Bushart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin joe Posted May 14, 2009 Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 I agree with G just be sure to leave an access panel where any utilities might need access Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy Posted May 14, 2009 Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 Moemoe, this may not be a crucial point but it was important to me. Whether you do wood flooring, wall or ceiling a la tongue and groove, if you can choose the season you do it in it makes a big difference. I did 3,000 sf of flooring in my house. If you buy your wood and install it in the winter for example, in the dryer season it'll shrink and you'll have gaps showing up. That's not too bad. What's worse is buying and installing TIGHT in the summer. When it swells, and it will, you'll get waves in there. If you can buy your wood and leave it out in the room that it's intended for for a while, the wood will climatise a little and give you much fewer problems. Between seasons is the best time to do it. Just my coupla cents. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin joe Posted May 14, 2009 Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 Great point Roy I let mine sit for 48 hrs before doing my floor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Cliff Posted May 14, 2009 Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 I let mine sit for 3 weeks then Sue made me put it down even though I insisted the longer it sat, the better it would be Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moemoe Posted May 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2009 Thanks for all the help! Marrying into a cottage and being a shift worker was definitley a score that being said I have put in a lot of time putting up panelling, wiring, maintenice, but it is definetly well worth it....The plan is to get there saturday, and then let the wood perculate till monday and start at it, with a little fishing in between......Hopefully the gap is not a problem as it is going over top of vapour barrier..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moemoe Posted May 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2009 (edited) Thanks for the help, the 18 g 1 and 1/4 brads worked great, I'll see how it looks in jUly with a little more humidity. Edited May 21, 2009 by moemoe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerritt Posted May 21, 2009 Report Share Posted May 21, 2009 Looking good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radnine Posted May 21, 2009 Report Share Posted May 21, 2009 A great start! Now get going on the window trim and maybe a little crown molding With the black flies it's a good time of year for indoor work, no? Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solopaddler Posted May 21, 2009 Report Share Posted May 21, 2009 Nice job bud. Did my sunroom at the cottage 3 years ago this July, still no shrinkage yet. Not that it matters anymore since your job is done, but someone mentioned glue for the ceiling as well as nails. That was key for me. Also important was a hatch to accesss the ceiling. I've got low voltage lights installed in the ceiling and need to access them... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moemoe Posted May 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2009 Honestly that was one mistake was not putting in a hatch to the ceiling in that room. I can access it, but it is a pain in the ass.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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