Lunker777 Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 (edited) Alright, So I took some pictures of the motor to kind of give you an idea of what Im up against. Most of the nest was up near the electrical/spark plugs and I see some of the wires are chewed. The carb. end of the motor is clean as a whistle tho. The prop seems to be in good shape ? There is a chip out of one of the blades though, just a small one, that should be OK, right ? Are these the 2 screws to check the lower end oil ? Im thinking they are. How do I go about cleaning all that stuff (feathers, dirt, etc. ) off properly ? What would be the best method ? Other then that area, the rest of the engine is fairly clean ! Carb. I'm hoping to maybe start clean up on it tomorrow. I think Im going to give myself a $1000 budget for this WHOLE project, including decking the boat out with some toys... IE Minn Kota transom mount first, then fish finder. I'm thinking if I try and do the engine work myself... I should be able to get away with about $350 in the motor ? Would that be a fair estimate ? Comments WELCOME ! haha Thanks for looking ! Isn't she Cute ?????? haha Edited April 1, 2009 by Lunker777 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2 tone z71 Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 (edited) its in decent shape for the yr should clean up well,when the engines come in like that I take the air hose and blast all that crap off,nice it has CD ign and not points condesor crap,id be willing to bet with a few hours of your time TLC that will be a fine lil engine,the props fine remove it and check for fishing line @ yes those are the fill/vent screws on the gearcase get new washer seals for them as well ,set of plugs, a once over on the carb and a fresh tank of 50/1 and your fishing Edited April 1, 2009 by North East Shark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverick Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 Yeah, If you don't have an air hose, a vacuum might do the trick too. Prop looks fine, no worries there. Once you clean it up, take a look at the wires and if they aren't bare some electrical tape might do the trick. The plugs look dirty on the outside so after all the crap is clean up around them you might want to pull them out and take a look at them. You'll find out more once you try to start it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeJ Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 vacuum as much as you can, an old paint brush works good too, make sure the plate under the flywheel is not seized usually they rotate a few degrees. look for any chewed through wires and tape the rest well, those are the two lower unit screws take them both out drain and fill back up through the bottom hole. Prop is fine. I might take the plugs out squirt some two stroke oil in and pull it over a few times and put new plugs back in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohhenrygsr Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 (edited) yea i would take a can of brake clean and a tooth brush and get working. Then spray it with some lube so it doesn't dry out. Edited April 1, 2009 by Henry Nguyen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fisherman Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 There is also "liquid tape" that can cover chew marks on the wires, available at CTC or Princess Auto, comes in different colours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raysfish2005 Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 Thats a Great little motor!! I ran one like that for years, Make sure you take the fuel lines off and check for hard varnish..ie old gas, nothing worse that little bits of varnish breaking away during the summer and clogging up the fuel pump and jets on the carb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lunker777 Posted April 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 Hopefully I can get some work done on it tonight ! I'm going to pick up some oil for the lower end today, and some cleaner. I have some parts on my "watch" list on eBay.... ready to be bought if I find something needs replacing haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lunker777 Posted April 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 yea i would take a can of brake clean and a tooth brush and get working. Then spray it with some lube so it doesn't dry out. What type of lube are you talking about ? like WD-40 ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lunker777 Posted April 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 vacuum as much as you can, an old paint brush works good too, make sure the plate under the flywheel is not seized usually they rotate a few degrees. look for any chewed through wires and tape the rest well, those are the two lower unit screws take them both out drain and fill back up through the bottom hole. Prop is fine. I might take the plugs out squirt some two stroke oil in and pull it over a few times and put new plugs back in. I should be able to just take the old plug into the shop and they can get a replacement from that right ? I'm not sure what type of plug I need for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverick Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 I should be able to just take the old plug into the shop and they can get a replacement from that right ? I'm not sure what type of plug I need for sure. The plug number is right on the side of the plug. Canadian Tire should have them, if not any place that does outboard repairs of any sorts will. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calender Don Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 On the lower unit there is a slot screw and a star shape DON"T take the star out. The flat screw next to it can come out and the other flat up higher can come out to change the oil, check gas lines and maybe the bowl on the carb, looks like good, when you get in running check to see the temp. of the water coming out if its warm -hot you may need a new impeller if fact I would change it to be on the safe side, four screws to drop the lower unit and one screw for the linkage for gears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishnsled Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 Great motor. I've got the same one, mine is a 1980. You shouldn't have too many problems in getting it to go. Mine is in need of an impeller, pull cord and a tune up. It will be the most I've spent on her in the 15 years I've had it. Be careful with the brake clean if you choose to use it. I've heard that some will remove paint. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sinker Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 Get some seafoam and run it through once you get her going....... Sinker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunchaser81 Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 When you change the lower unit oil, make sure you fill it back up from the bottom, the motor should be in the upright position and fill it until the air bubbles stop coming out of the top plug, this prevents an air lock and will able you to put in the proper amount of gear lube in. You should pick up the adapter that goes on the bottle of gear lube and then attaches to the lower unit to fill it, you don't need it to do the job but makes it easier and less mess, CTC, Princess Auto have them. Did you ever get the Model # sunchaser81 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lunker777 Posted April 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 When you change the lower unit oil, make sure you fill it back up from the bottom, the motor should be in the upright position and fill it until the air bubbles stop coming out of the top plug, this prevents an air lock and will able you to put in the proper amount of gear lube in. You should pick up the adapter that goes on the bottle of gear lube and then attaches to the lower unit to fill it, you don't need it to do the job but makes it easier and less mess, CTC, Princess Auto have them. Did you ever get the Model # sunchaser81 I have yet to get the model #... but I think it is pretty straight forward... most of the re-search has led me to believe that the major things on these motors are used through the series.... I'm pretty sure its a 1980 model... and I have found a site with all the original part #'s... So i should be alright, I think ? So to replace the oil, Should I just leave it on the stand how I have it now ? Ive read about the special filler adapter for the bottom end, Ill have to go out and get me some. I have to figure out what kind of oil is needed as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunchaser81 Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 The round silver plate with the arrow is where the Model # is sometimes, there is a # there but I can't read it. Is the plate on the mounting bracket gone or just painted over? The gear lube that I use in mine is Formula 1 SAE 90 the Brand name is a preference but it should be a SAE 90 gear lube. Yes on the stand or on the boat is where you want it. sunchaser81 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeJ Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 I have yet to get the model #... but I think it is pretty straight forward... most of the re-search has led me to believe that the major things on these motors are used through the series.... I'm pretty sure its a 1980 model... and I have found a site with all the original part #'s... So i should be alright, I think ? So to replace the oil, Should I just leave it on the stand how I have it now ? Ive read about the special filler adapter for the bottom end, Ill have to go out and get me some. I have to figure out what kind of oil is needed as well yup leave it on the stand straight up and down and pump oil in from the bottom till it comes out the top hole, put the top screw back in quickly remove the filler adapter and put the bottom screw in. If you think you lost some oil you can top it up through the top hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boatman Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 (edited) I don't remember all your questions so if I miss something post back. The silver plug in your first photo is the serial number. Unfortunately, the model number isn't marked on it. Oh well, you have confirmation that its a 1980 and that's all you need. I wouldn't use brake cleaner because it may remove the paint. A little soap and water is all you need. The wires look fine in the photos. Looks to me like only the wrapping was chewed. That wrap is only there to keep the wires orderly. Rewrap with tape if you want, but its not necessary. If any of the wires are chewed bare, you can use Liquid Electrical Tape like someone suggested. As mentioned, put a healthy does of oil in the cylinders and then pull the rope to get everything lubricated. Any oil you have is ok (WD-40, penetrating oil, motor oil or 2 stroke engine oil). I use penetrating oil (PB Blaster or Seafoam) because it will creep into places that other oils won't and will help free the rings if they are stuck. I wouldn't use WD-40 as I understand it can actually attract moisture as well as gum things up when it dries. I don't even own the stuff. I use 3 in 1 spray oil instead. The spark plugs have a number stamped on the ceramic part. You can get them anywhere that sells spark plugs. Canadian Tire and Walmart usually have them in stock. They are very popluar. Spark plugs rarely go bad, but as a matter of course I usually replace them on motors I don't know. This motor would qualify for new plugs if it was me. Then forget about them. You will probably never need to replace them again unless you do a decarb like someone suggested. That sometimes ruins the plugs. No problem. Plugs are cheap. Buy an oil pump for the lower unit. The pump is about $10 and you can get it at Canadian Tire, Walmart or your local marina/small engine shop. There are lots of lower unit oils that will be fine to use. Basically, it needs to be 90W oil. Since you will be going to CTC to get plugs and a pump anyway just pick up a bottle of their marine gear oil. Finally, I mentioned this in your other thread, but I'm going to say it again. Replace the impeller. I forgot to mention that if there isn't anything majorly wrong with the motor then you should only have less than $100 invested in it (impeller and seals $30, oil $10, plugs $6, oil pump $10). Edited April 1, 2009 by boatman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lunker777 Posted April 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 (edited) I don't remember all your questions so if I miss something post back. The silver plug in your first photo is the serial number. Unfortunately, the model number isn't marked on it. Oh well, you have confirmation that its a 1980 and that's all you need. I wouldn't use brake cleaner because it may remove the paint. A little soap and water is all you need. The wires look fine in the photos. Looks to me like only the wrapping was chewed. That wrap is only there to keep the wires orderly. Rewrap with tape if you want, but its not necessary. If any of the wires are chewed bare, you can use Liquid Electrical Tape like someone suggested. As mentioned, put a healthy does of oil in the cylinders and then pull the rope to get everything lubricated. Any oil you have is ok (WD-40, penetrating oil, motor oil or 2 stroke engine oil). I use penetrating oil (PB Blaster or Seafoam) because it will creep into places that other oils won't and will help free the rings if they are stuck. I wouldn't use WD-40 as I understand it can actually attract moisture as well as gum things up when it dries. I don't even own the stuff. I use 3 in 1 spray oil instead. The spark plugs have a number stamped on the ceramic part. You can get them anywhere that sells spark plugs. Canadian Tire and Walmart usually have them in stock. They are very popluar. Spark plugs rarely go bad, but as a matter of course I usually replace them on motors I don't know. This motor would qualify for new plugs if it was me. Then forget about them. You will probably never need to replace them again unless you do a decarb like someone suggested. That sometimes ruins the plugs. No problem. Plugs are cheap. Buy an oil pump for the lower unit. The pump is about $10 and you can get it at Canadian Tire, Walmart or your local marina/small engine shop. There are lots of lower unit oils that will be fine to use. Basically, it needs to be 90W oil. Since you will be going to CTC to get plugs and a pump anyway just pick up a bottle of their marine gear oil. Finally, I mentioned this in your other thread, but I'm going to say it again. Replace the impeller. I forgot to mention that if there isn't anything majorly wrong with the motor then you should only have less than $100 invested in it (impeller and seals $30, oil $10, plugs $6, oil pump $10). Thanks Boatman, I went to mess with the motor a bit today... I blew it off with the air compressor and I come to find out that all the wires are chewed right through :angry: :wallbash: I took a brush and kind of brushed whatever I could off at first, then went to town with the blower and cleaned it up. Once that was done... I saw that the wires ( the ones on the top that are covered with dirt ) have actually been DEMOLISHED by the mice haha a couple were chewed right in half ! SOOOO I'm going to need to replace the part I believe its the power pack ? .... found this one on eBay... is it the right one ?? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...T&viewitem= I think I'm going to go back over to my grandparents tonight and grab some pics of the spark plugs. When I pulled them out to have a look, they were pretty black, and they looked a little gunky ! I'm a rookie when it comes to this stuff so I don't know if that's normal or if its something I should be concerned about ? Edited April 1, 2009 by Lunker777 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boatman Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 Do you have a soldering iron? You can solder them back together. Use a water proof heat shrink tubing to cover the splice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lunker777 Posted April 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 (edited) HAHA I don't think so, I wish I would have gotten some pics of the damage, but I didn't have the camera . There is about 1.25" from end to end.... Maybe If I can just pull those wires a little tighter to get them close together but I dont know how much slack is there.... but the other thing, I SUCK AT SOLDERING ! Edited April 1, 2009 by Lunker777 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boatman Posted April 1, 2009 Report Share Posted April 1, 2009 Well, you could just add a short piece of wire to bridge the gap, but if you aren't comfortable with soldering then don't bother. The soldered joint has to be good and you have to be quick when soldering that close to the powerpack. That is the right powerpack for your motor (BRP 582552 or Sierra 18-5758). That one will cost you about $75 CDN before PayPal fees and duty. Could end up being closer to $100 if they ding you at the border. Its cheaper than your local marina, though. Sierra marine sells a powerpack for your motor for about the same price. You can order it online at marinemanifold.com or get it at your local NAPA dealer. Just give them the Sierra part number. http://www.marinemanifold.com/SearchResult...eyWords=18-5758 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverick Posted April 2, 2009 Report Share Posted April 2, 2009 you could always get some wire to use as an extension, just buy 2 feet of wire around the same size or get 3 feet and practice with the first foot. That would save you having to spend 50us plus ship. Soldering guns are cheap and handy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boatman Posted April 2, 2009 Report Share Posted April 2, 2009 (edited) On second thought, you should try to solder the wires. It would be good practise and if it doesn't work you aren't out anything. Use a rosin flux core solder for electronics. Do not use acid flux solder. Try not to get the wire close to the packpack too hot as it could damage the powerpack. Edited April 2, 2009 by boatman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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