Beats Posted December 9, 2008 Report Posted December 9, 2008 My friend has one, it works ok on ice as long as there isn't a flasher too close. He used his on Simcoe and worked fine. But when we were in a hut the next time and I brought my flasher, his sonar was useless. The flasher was horribly interfering with the sonar. Not sure how close you could have it to a flasher before it becomes affected.
FishHeadRic Posted December 9, 2008 Report Posted December 9, 2008 This is the fish-finder l got for my yak. Works great! Can't see why lt wouldn.t work for the ice. FHR
danbo Posted December 9, 2008 Author Report Posted December 9, 2008 (edited) Dang! I guess ya get what ya pay for.. I figure the LCD could freeze up? Edited December 9, 2008 by danbo
jdmls Posted December 9, 2008 Report Posted December 9, 2008 used mine all last season on the ice...works mint...You have to McGyver a bracket to keep the transduser planted or else you will never get a good reading ... The cold didn't affect it, but yes as stated above, " you can't be next to another finder within 10ft
danbo Posted December 9, 2008 Author Report Posted December 9, 2008 I like that.."You have to McGyver a bracket". I sent one to my bro in BC last year..maybe get one for me too!
troutologist Posted December 9, 2008 Report Posted December 9, 2008 used mine all last season on the ice...works mint...You have to McGyver a bracket to keep the transduser planted or else you will never get a good reading ... The cold didn't affect it, but yes as stated above, " you can't be next to another finder within 10ft Can you expand on your setup. Ive got this same unit and was wondering how to rig it for icefishing. I was thinking you could just toss a bit of weight on the transducer mount to hold it down?????
solopaddler Posted December 9, 2008 Report Posted December 9, 2008 Can you expand on your setup. Ive got this same unit and was wondering how to rig it for icefishing. I was thinking you could just toss a bit of weight on the transducer mount to hold it down????? Jay, take the suction cup off the transducer and bolt it to a piece of wood (a 2' chunk of 1X2 works for me). Bolt an 8 or 10" piece of wood at the top to brace across the top of the ice hole. I usually tape the transducer cable to the wood with electrical tape to keep things neat.
troutologist Posted December 9, 2008 Report Posted December 9, 2008 Thanks Mike, I'll give that a go. Can't wait to get after those suspended lakers now! cheers
jdmls Posted December 10, 2008 Report Posted December 10, 2008 (edited) Jay, take the suction cup off the transducer and bolt it to a piece of wood (a 2' chunk of 1X2 works for me). Bolt an 8 or 10" piece of wood at the top to brace across the top of the ice hole. I usually tape the transducer cable to the wood with electrical tape to keep things neat. Pretty much the same setup as what I have put together....I just mounted the transducer to a 30" piece of angle iron and mounted a 12" square piece of plywood to the top of it which a pack with snow on the side of the hole.. I found the angle iron worked well, because I could move the transducer down a few holes as the ice got thicker throughout the season...If the transducer is to far past the bottom of the ice , I found the current was causing it to sway to much and screwing up the reading... Wait till you throw down your first hand full of salties.. watching them sink , you will never believe how long they take to get down to 80ft of water Its pretty piss poor but you get the idea Edited December 10, 2008 by JDMLS
DANIMAL Posted December 11, 2008 Report Posted December 11, 2008 I've used one vertical jigging in open water and it was surprisingly sensitive for an inexpensive unit. I think it would be fine for on the ice.
Riparian Posted December 11, 2008 Report Posted December 11, 2008 (edited) 2x2's or hockey sticks nailed or screwed together in "T" fashion. Duct tape the transducer to the bottom of the T and you are good to go. Sounds stupid but works fine and is easily made from materials lying around. Can be made in less than 5 mins. Just make sure the transducer and the bracket are sitting level. Edited December 11, 2008 by Riparian
Riparian Posted December 11, 2008 Report Posted December 11, 2008 My friend has one, it works ok on ice as long as there isn't a flasher too close. He used his on Simcoe and worked fine. But when we were in a hut the next time and I brought my flasher, his sonar was useless. The flasher was horribly interfering with the sonar. Not sure how close you could have it to a flasher before it becomes affected. Ya... its all fun and games until your friend brings a flasher to the hut that is equiped with "interference rejection" technology.
limeyangler Posted December 11, 2008 Report Posted December 11, 2008 Hey danbo, The Eagle Cuda is very similar to the Lowrance X67c....except its not colour and a few other things like the battery set up....but it accepts most of the accessories for the Lowrance X67c...including the stuff that turns it into an ice fishing" unit. That is to say that ou can use a Lowrance "iceducer" Code PTI-WSU part#106-68 which is basically a self levelling transducer ( i bought one of these and use it now, but i did go the hockey stick method before hand and it worked great too, the hockey stick is just a bit cumbersome)
jdmls Posted December 11, 2008 Report Posted December 11, 2008 Hey danbo, The Eagle Cuda is very similar to the Lowrance X67c....except its not colour and a few other things like the battery set up....but it accepts most of the accessories for the Lowrance X67c...including the stuff that turns it into an ice fishing" unit. That is to say that ou can use a Lowrance "iceducer" Code PTI-WSU part#106-68 which is basically a self levelling transducer ( i bought one of these and use it now, but i did go the hockey stick method before hand and it worked great too, the hockey stick is just a bit cumbersome) Someone recommended this to me last year.... It's must work perfect , but for $90 hmmm ..... When you can make it work with some scraps found laying in the garage ...I wuold rather put the $90 towards a better unit as the cuda is as low end as it gets..
River Rat Posted January 21, 2009 Report Posted January 21, 2009 any transducer will interfer with the ones around it at a certain distance away and certain depth of water. I run a 520C through a Universal trans. built into my troller, and I have a skipper for the X27 off the back......my cones are dialed in to 19 degrees......my boat is 17ft long, so the trans. are 17ft apart.....now..... each cone spreads out at 19 degrees the work OK till I get out to 25-27 feet of water then the cones overlap causeing interference. If I am alone, I simply turn of the X27 and the problem goes away.....If I have a partner and we are drop shotting over 25ft, I have an ethernet connection so that I can run both screens off the same transducer, so both guys see the same thing so in 35plus ft, you can see both jigs or rigs working the bottom at the same time. for the ice, you simply have to spread out so the cones don't interfer with each other, and make sure those cones are dialed in a tight as you can get them for better detail under your hole. Cheers RR
glen Posted January 22, 2009 Report Posted January 22, 2009 My fishfinder does not like the cold. The screen will stop moving in -15. It has trouble reading bottom and does not work at 100ft. Its a waste of time. I hope you make out better.
Nemo Posted January 22, 2009 Report Posted January 22, 2009 Have the same ffinder and almost same solution as SoloP. Took two stir sticks for paint. Bolted one to the transducer after removing the suction cup and used duct tape to tape the wire to the top part of the stick. Then just slide the other stir stick between the wire and the vertical stick and just below the duct tape. Stick in the hole and your good to go. When you're done just pull the horizontal stick out and that's it. Took less than 2 minutes to set up.
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