A/c plumbing question (NF)

[bigfish1965]

Just moved in to this house and turned on the AC for the first time..runs okay..downstairs cool, upstairs still really hot.

My problem is there is a copper pipe coming out of the furnace( comes out, does a 90 degree turn on a slight downard angle and just ends) that is now dripping water..quite a bit..about 2 or 3 drops per second..I put a bucket under it since the pipe goes nowehre.

If this is a condensate pipe shouldn't it be leading to the laundry tub or somehwere else or do I have a problem?

[charlied]

yes if it is the condensation pipe which it sounds like, just shut the ac down and continue the pipe to the laundry tube, providing there is one in the house that is, my pipe is plastic thou not copper. Just make sure there is a slight downward angle. As for the ac problem on the the upper floor, if you can access the vents maybe they are off each other. Other than that I can't help you. What size pipe is it, too bad you weren't closer to fort erie, got a bit of pipe here just sitting around from when I had to extend my lines in my shower, plus I have elbows too.

Edited June 7, 2008 by charlied

[Zamboni]

Not a drain near by Rick?....usually the tube is just dripping into a basement floor drain.

 

Close all the basement vents on ducts for the summer-look for a 'balancing' louver to direct more air to upstairs branches for summer season.

 

Most duct work is poorly installed, if you take a roll of duct tape and seal joints at elbows etc there will be far more cold air flowing upstairs. This is only possible on duct work in unfinished basements but if acessable it'll help a lot.

[Hooked]

I got the same issue Rick, minus the pipe, mine goes into my laundry sink and is plastic. My basement is sometimes too cold, and I plugged my vents there, my main floor is ok, but upstairs usually is pretty muggy, even with the ac on all day. If you find an easy and economical solution Rick, let me know.

[forrest]

Not a drain near by Rick?....usually the tube is just dripping into a basement floor drain.

 

Close all the basement vents on ducts for the summer-look for a 'balancing' louver to direct more air to upstairs branches for summer season.

 

Most duct work is poorly installed, if you take a roll of duct tape and seal joints at elbows etc there will be far more cold air flowing upstairs. This is only possible on duct work in unfinished basements but if acessable it'll help a lot.

 

Additional items:

 

1) close the upstairs cold air returns and open the warm air returns(near ceiling)

2) get the ceiling fans going in the right directions (in fwd, blowing towards the floor).

3) put pastic bags or some other obstruction on the basement vents that do not close completely (those round ones). Yes, yes, puts a greater load on the blower motor...the holes in the system will reduce the strain, seal and get cold.

 

 

forrest

[motv8tr]

I know Steve had a similar problem as far as less cool air going up to the bedroom level. He picked up a couple of "boosters" that go over the register and in the winter it helps push the hot air up and for the summer it has a setting to pull the cool air up, he says it works great. I will try to find out where he got them and will let you know.

 

Maureen

[danc]

Also Rick, put a trap in the condensate line when you run it to the sink. You're losing a ton of air out of the condensate as it is now, and will continue to do so unless it is trapped. A trap is simply a loop in the drain line that will collect water, preventing air loss.

[livinisfishin]

Is the a.c properly sized for the house?

[Tinman]

depending on how far too the pipe is from the laundry tub, you may need a condensate pump or you may already have one if you have high efficiency condensing furnace. then you can just tie into the existing pipe, as for the cold air problem reaching up stairs, have your a/c inspected, i recommend every year, just like your furnace, as well, as what most of the other guys have said, duct work is a very tricky thing to size to start with, remember that in the fall you will have to back and balance all the round pipe again. most hardware stores carry a booster which can be be installed with very little effort in your basement providing it is unfinished. all it is is a section of pipe with a fan in the center, i have them in my house ( a rental) for the upstairs heat in the winter time. Another thing you may want to try is putting a dehumidifier in the upper units, this will make a difference on its own. also if you have a humidifier attached to your furnace, shut it off and close the louver on it. Good luck

[Canuck2fan]

Not a drain near by Rick?....usually the tube is just dripping into a basement floor drain.

 

Close all the basement vents on ducts for the summer-look for a 'balancing' louver to direct more air to upstairs branches for summer season.

 

Most duct work is poorly installed, if you take a roll of duct tape and seal joints at elbows etc there will be far more cold air flowing upstairs. This is only possible on duct work in unfinished basements but if acessable it'll help a lot.

 

UM duct tape is NOT meant to seal up ducts it is porous and will not provide an air tight seal..... Also if you can see your ducts insulate them it will save you a fortune in both winter and summer. To see where you need to use a sealant around ducting use a smoke pen. Then use a product like this NOT DUCT TAPE to seal the joints.

 

http://www.durodynecanada.ca/canada/produc...ves/spec_s2.pdf

Edited June 8, 2008 by Canuck2fan

[Tinman]

There is a product you can buy to seal the joints, its a paint on material. When i install duct work in a energy star home, this paint is required in order to pass the energy star audit. It is much better than duct tape, because duct tape dries out and falls off. tin tape does the same thing. The pain can be bought at an HVAC supply store. It is pricey though. This is the product that CANUCK2Fan was talking about. It is great stuff, use gloves, and don't wear clothes you want to wear again, because it doesn't come off!

[Zamboni]

Sounds like you guys are in that field-I'll take your word that the paint on product is better than duct tape. There are many brands of different quality duct tape though, some under $1 a roll while others brands with good adhesive, thick tape material are over $5 a roll. Tape I applied is still perfect, sticky and not hard/brittle.

 

3-4 years ago I taped ducts in our basement as upstairs bedrooms weren't getting cold air despite 'balancing'. When I taped off a few basement outlets and was amazed at poor fit at almost every duct joint-elbows with huge gaps and air exiting. Went from barely feeling air upstairs to curtain moving air flow.

 

Building code should mandate all duct joints be taped during installation, I can imagine what duct runs in our walls look like.

[Canuck2fan]

Sounds like you guys are in that field-I'll take your word that the paint on product is better than duct tape. There are many brands of different quality duct tape though, some under $1 a roll while others brands with good adhesive, thick tape material are over $5 a roll. Tape I applied is still perfect, sticky and not hard/brittle.

 

I am not in the field I just know that you can't pass an energy audit as stated by Tinman with duct tape on your ducts. On the other hand it is the handyman's secret weapon.... so it is still useful for lots of things. Just apparently not what is named for LOL.

[sirfish]

Question.......my drain pipe along with many of my friends drain pipes just goes into the floor. Is this ok ?

Obviously it must be as it is a standard practice .What do employed HVAC people on here think.

[Tinman]

most a/c installs i do, go into the floor or to a condensate pump to the laundry tub