Nanook Posted April 7, 2008 Report Posted April 7, 2008 Last time I used the snow blower it was 'coughing' a bit. I 'm not sure, but think it may be water in the carb. Any advice on how to clean it out, befor it goes into hibernation for the summer. Any answers are appreciated, and my thanks in advance.
irishfield Posted April 7, 2008 Report Posted April 7, 2008 Put the coffee on... Cliff will be there at 7:30...
Nanook Posted April 7, 2008 Author Report Posted April 7, 2008 Wayne, Wayne, Wayne, Ever the 'sharpy' hey what!
Beans Posted April 7, 2008 Report Posted April 7, 2008 Wayne must be thinkin' of someone else Jack...Cliff and I know you are never up before 08:00 AM...
Big Cliff Posted April 7, 2008 Report Posted April 7, 2008 I'm a little busy this week Jack but if you would like I will drop by next week and give it a going over and get it ready for summer storage. Perhaps I'll see if it works for Beans and I'll do his for him same day then haul him over to your place for a bit of a visit while I do yours.
Beans Posted April 7, 2008 Report Posted April 7, 2008 Any day but tomorrow...have a doctor's appointment for my annual check-up... I still think she should kiss me before the rubber glove treatment...
2 tone z71 Posted April 7, 2008 Report Posted April 7, 2008 pull the fuel hose off the carb ,drain fuel from tank,pull the float bowl off carb and dump it out look for junk in there,put it back on and fresh fuel in it
Fishn Technishn Posted April 7, 2008 Report Posted April 7, 2008 I always add stabilizer to my snowblower/lawnmower gas "cuz ya never know when the last cut/throw will be. Save as lot of ??? & time. Do the same with the boat. Beans, I know how you feel....I go for the check UP tomorrow. My Dr is a very pretty lady and has tiny hands!! Previous Dr was 6'3 and looked like a Offensive Tackle!!
wallyboss Posted April 7, 2008 Report Posted April 7, 2008 The only difference between tiny hands and big hands, Is that one asks you to cough and the other one asks you to whistle.
Big Cliff Posted April 7, 2008 Report Posted April 7, 2008 Scariest day of my life was going for one of those and Dr. said "now this might be a little uncomfortable" and I realized that both his hands were on my sholders. If that happens run out of there screaming!!!!!!! LOL.
jiggz Posted April 7, 2008 Report Posted April 7, 2008 over time, jets may get clogged, because of gummed up fuel or small tiny debris. before a carb rebuild (last case schenario) i would:: - add some fuel stabilizier, run it. - addjust the high speed jet (its the screw under the carb bowl), you can most likely turn it with hand (counter-clockwise, it richens the mixture, ie. opening) (very-very lil at a time) when the blower is at full throttle ..you can see if the caughing goes away... i would think it is running lean and caughing. you can hear the difference, and tune it as needed. If you never done this before, either read up on it a little or get someone else to help you. at last, order carb rebuild kit & rebuild it.. not that difficult, but again read up on it!
Big Cliff Posted April 7, 2008 Report Posted April 7, 2008 jiggz; First, I want you to know that we all really appreciate it when new members try to get involved and help and all opinions are very much appreciated. Please don't take this as anything personal but: IMHO anyone playing around with a carb without the tools to adjust it properly is just asking for trouble. With the new carbs today desigined to meet the tight immision standards the tollerances are very critical, adjust it too lean and you will burn the engine (fast), too rich and it might run but will carbon it up and could cause the ring to seize, the plug to foul, the spark arrestor to plug..... well, I would go on but I'd end up having to give a course in small engine repair LOL. Gone are the days when you can tune an engine by ear and be sure you are getting the optimum performance. Just ask my wife how much I spend on tools LOL.
Kerry Posted April 7, 2008 Report Posted April 7, 2008 You might try looking under your carb bowl first and see if there's a spring loaded fuel outlet.Mine has one and when it starts sputtering you just use the plastic chute tool to push up on it and out comes the water.Gas is lighter than water so it comes out first.Try and catch it in a container of sorts to dispose of and then put some conditioner thru it or leave it empty till next season with the cap slightly loosened so it won't build up condensation. Kerry
Nanook Posted April 7, 2008 Author Report Posted April 7, 2008 So.............I have to drain the bladder, take off the [panty] hose, insert two fingers [lubed],turn clockwise, while whistling DIXIE, and listen for the rev's. Boy, did that thread go to pot. Thanks for the responses Gentlemen. Cliff; E-mail on its way. Beans; I get up before 8:00, I just dont go chasing fishes at 5"00am anymore
Nanook Posted April 7, 2008 Author Report Posted April 7, 2008 So.............I have to drain the bladder, take off the [panty] hose, insert two fingers [lubed],turn clockwise, while whistling DIXIE, and listen for the rev's. Boy, did that thread go to pot. Thanks for the responses Gentlemen. Cliff; E-mail on its way. Beans; I get up before 8:00, I just dont go chasing fishes at 5"00am anymore
aplumma Posted April 7, 2008 Report Posted April 7, 2008 How long have you been studdering Jack??? I would just hang out and let Cliff come by and fix it right after all when was the last time you got an offer to bring you company over while he works? Art
Daplumma Posted April 8, 2008 Report Posted April 8, 2008 jiggz; First, I want you to know that we all really appreciate it when new members try to get involved and help and all opinions are very much appreciated. Please don't take this as anything personal but: IMHO anyone playing around with a carb without the tools to adjust it properly is just asking for trouble. With the new carbs today desigined to meet the tight immision standards the tollerances are very critical, adjust it too lean and you will burn the engine (fast), too rich and it might run but will carbon it up and could cause the ring to seize, the plug to foul, the spark arrestor to plug..... well, I would go on but I'd end up having to give a course in small engine repair LOL. Gone are the days when you can tune an engine by ear and be sure you are getting the optimum performance. Just ask my wife how much I spend on tools LOL. Dead on Cliff.One thing that I have learned is its almost never a case of adjusting the carb.They dont generaly fall out of tune,they may get dirty but fiddleing with the jets will prolly cost you a motor.They always run the best right before they blow up. Jack,I have a really bad mental picture in my head of you and panty hose and whisleing and .......yaakkk Joe
Big Cliff Posted April 8, 2008 Report Posted April 8, 2008 They always run the best right before they blow up. Joe Yup "it was running perfectly, in fact it never ran better, I just did a tune up on it then it just quit and now it won't start", "I'm sure it's nothing serious." LOL Jack still haven't seen your email did you use our new email address: [email protected]
Nanook Posted April 8, 2008 Author Report Posted April 8, 2008 On its way now Cliff, bin messing around with my Photo Gallery.
2 tone z71 Posted April 8, 2008 Report Posted April 8, 2008 jiggz; First, I want you to know that we all really appreciate it when new members try to get involved and help and all opinions are very much appreciated. Please don't take this as anything personal but: IMHO anyone playing around with a carb without the tools to adjust it properly is just asking for trouble. With the new carbs today desigined to meet the tight immision standards the tollerances are very critical, adjust it too lean and you will burn the engine (fast), too rich and it might run but will carbon it up and could cause the ring to seize, the plug to foul, the spark arrestor to plug..... well, I would go on but I'd end up having to give a course in small engine repair LOL. Gone are the days when you can tune an engine by ear and be sure you are getting the optimum performance. Just ask my wife how much I spend on tools LOL. hmm unless the snowblower is SDI or Fuel injected which there not im confused at what "special" tools are required for this basic simple lil carb,we are talking snowblower here right
Big Cliff Posted April 8, 2008 Report Posted April 8, 2008 Well, why don't we start with a tachometer or a vaccuum/pressure gauge for starters, fine tuning the carb is best done with a tachometer, that's why the manufactures specify rpms, too lean, engine over revs. = burn out the engine. Too rich, engine and exhaust carbon up = engine over heats. It can also be benificial in finding problems and adjusting the governer. Vaccuum/pressure gauge can help you pinpoint and identify problems in the fuel system, plugged fuel vent, air leaks, needle valve lift off...... Well, to be honest with you, you don't need any of those tools, I see engines in the shop every day that someone has fixed themselves. I have probably invested all this money and time in equipment and learning how to and becoming certified on small engine repairs because it gives me something to do when I'm not fishing LOL. Anyway, I don't charge any OFNr anything for labour, just parts and a cold one (or a coffee as the case may be) and a buck or two for consumables i.e. carb cleaner so those that would rather do it themselves are welcome to but I do like to take care of my friends and when I do it, I like to do it right (or at least as best I can). So, to answer your question; No, no special tools are required!
2 tone z71 Posted April 8, 2008 Report Posted April 8, 2008 Cliff thats awesome, was just curious is all,ive been rebuilding repairing engines since mid 90s,mainly Snowmobile,ATV,PWC and outboards,I made it in to a full time gig in 99-02 then walked away as it made me miserable towards a sport/hobby I love,I now just mess with my own and close friends stuff,and buy/repair/sell ,my dads been an outboard mechanic now pushing 20 yrs so ive learned lots from him as well,the small stuff weedwhackers chainsaws snowbowers I turn away or send them to a guy I know, the time you put in on them you never get back plus id rather be fishing lol ,thats awesome you do the favours for the OFNers thats stand up for sure
jiggz Posted April 8, 2008 Report Posted April 8, 2008 jiggz; First, I want you to know that we all really appreciate it when new members try to get involved and help and all opinions are very much appreciated. Please don't take this as anything personal but: IMHO anyone playing around with a carb without the tools to adjust it properly is just asking for trouble. With the new carbs today desigined to meet the tight immision standards the tollerances are very critical, adjust it too lean and you will burn the engine (fast), too rich and it might run but will carbon it up and could cause the ring to seize, the plug to foul, the spark arrestor to plug..... well, I would go on but I'd end up having to give a course in small engine repair LOL. Gone are the days when you can tune an engine by ear and be sure you are getting the optimum performance. Just ask my wife how much I spend on tools LOL. im all talking in general terms here:: - new member doesnt mean , this member does not have experience in tuning/rebuilding engines as such.. or else i wouldn't post a reply - in all cases in my reply, i mentioned if you dont know, you dont have experience with this, I meant dont this alone, get "help", read or get someone that has experience - as such small engines, carbs are all the same in general - i did not ask specific questions, such a HP, what year snowblower, etc etc.. if its too new, might be under warranty, bring it back, if its not under warranty etc., and willing to post something here, this is the kind of general HELP you might receive - tools for carbs in basic, are a screw driver, wrench and maybe 1 socket, you dont use any other tool // i tune these size engines with just listening.. no crazy tools required // tollerances are critical of course in all engines.. adjust point is already set at the current state, suggested adjustment interval was little by little.. - anyway these was all "general" points without getting too specific - all IMHO as well with any other posts - your post is appreciated too
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