brkygetr Posted February 11, 2008 Author Report Posted February 11, 2008 ok...so got the light tester hooked up with a couple of cotter pins and definaetly no power to the actuator....did a quick check again of the harness (about the 15th time) and still see no faults....used the multi meter and did a test as well with no results. Did the amp test Tybo is talking about and nothing changed...though not exactly sure what was supposed to happen...when it comes to electrical I am a little green Brkygetr
Bernie Posted February 11, 2008 Report Posted February 11, 2008 (edited) Couple more checks. Continuity test the ground circuit. When you checked for power at the actuator you used the ground circuit on the harness so to verify you need to ohm test(continuity) the ground (black wire) to the battery negative terminal. Did you check for power on the brown wire at the transfer case switch? If you have and there was power the open circuit is somewhere in between there and your actuator. If the switch not being moved by internal cam in transfer case it will not close the circuit either. Here's an idea if power is at the switch. Jump the switch at the transfer case (brown to light blue) and check for power to the actuator again. This will prove bad switch operation if power is there. This is a lot harder to do on line. I'd have this figured in 10 minutes flat in the shop. Edited February 11, 2008 by Bernie
brkygetr Posted February 11, 2008 Author Report Posted February 11, 2008 I agree Bernie this is difficult on line but I appreciate your help.... anyway continuity test to the negitive terminal is good. There is power to the transfer switch so jumped the connection and then I got power to the actuator.....does this mean that the switch is not acting properly???? Should I get a new switch??? ...and just a thought is it possible to just bypass the switch in order to get into 4x4 (for future reference if needed in an emergency)..... Like I said I appreciate the help, got further in the past 4 hours than the past week of tinkering around.... Brkygetr
Bernie Posted February 11, 2008 Report Posted February 11, 2008 Proves the circuits are working and the switch is not. So next is the switch. When 4x4 applied it moves a cam up to the switch to activate it. Possibilities are a bad switch, the cam not moving or the switch not threaded in enough to contact the cam. Pull out the switch and hook up your ohm meter to the 2 contacts(light blue and black) and push up on the switch. It should show continuity. I suspect a bad switch here. Yes you can jump it if need be to get you out of a jam.
aplumma Posted February 11, 2008 Report Posted February 11, 2008 Your the man Bernie. While it would have been easier to ignore the post you went ahead and not only answered but also took the time to research the tests and diagrams to make it possible for someone with limited knowledge to test for the correct answer. I give you one attaboy for your time here. Art
brkygetr Posted February 11, 2008 Author Report Posted February 11, 2008 yes I agree Bernie you are the man!!!!!!! So after removing the switch the continuity test proved positive though it was a weak signal...I was using the audio feature as I was having a hard time seeing the meter...either way when I depressed the switch I got a positive 'beeeep'......the switch was threaded all the way in and I tried to engage 4 high again with no results.
irishfield Posted February 11, 2008 Report Posted February 11, 2008 Bernie... you're a good lad. Now don't forget to add the hour to the guy on the hoists repair bill!
Bernie Posted February 11, 2008 Report Posted February 11, 2008 (edited) Thank you Guys. Did enough of these things I should have the diagram imprinted in my head. But there are so many different systems that you have to take the time to verify. At first I was thinking it had an electric transfer case motor. Having the proper diagrams available makes jobs go easier. But you are right, it does take time to look it up, think through it and describe how to test. Just as a side note to those who think guys like me are expensive, the program I used to look up the diagram costs me $300.00 a month to maintain. Along with scan tool updates, training, hoists and so on its hard to keep up with the technology and keep enough for a wage. I realize mechanics have a bad reputation in some places but most of us are trying our best to keep you going along the road. Edited February 11, 2008 by Bernie
Bernie Posted February 11, 2008 Report Posted February 11, 2008 It's still a possible bad switch. The contacts may be worn internally and with a little wear in the cam it may not be depressed far enough to contact. Go to the GM store and get an OE switch. Have had some problems with the aftermarket switches. Keep me updated on your progress.
brkygetr Posted February 11, 2008 Author Report Posted February 11, 2008 Right on....the switch is ordered and (because I live in the middle of nowhere) it will be here in 2 days....I'll let ya know how it works out...and by the way if you are ever in Fort Frances let me know....I'll take ya out on Rainy for some 30+ inch walleye, feed ya dinner, and probably wash and wax your vehicle for ya Thanks again for clarifying this Brkygetr
Daplumma Posted February 11, 2008 Report Posted February 11, 2008 In the mean time will jumping the switch make it work?Good job Bernie,makes me proud to be a member here. Joe
Bernie Posted February 11, 2008 Report Posted February 11, 2008 Yes Joe the jumper will work it. Glad to be able to do my part here too Joe.
shane Posted February 12, 2008 Report Posted February 12, 2008 WTG Bernie I've been following this all day. Hope it works out well. Too bad about the two day wait for parts tho'.
Tybo Posted February 12, 2008 Report Posted February 12, 2008 Modern technology is bull crap. Last night I had a machine that woulded go into gear. pull out the lap top and run the program, It tell me that nothing is wrong. Boss thinks I miss some thing. Run it again. Same results. Grab my multi meter, A hour later find a bad resistor. This program cost the company 1200 bucks. What so funny about the hole thing is that the on board monitoring system should have caught this problem. All 14000 bucks worth and I find it old school.
Bernie Posted February 12, 2008 Report Posted February 12, 2008 Yes Paul old school works lots yet too. Thats why there are poor,good, better and best technicians. You need it all these days.
bbog Posted February 12, 2008 Report Posted February 12, 2008 With the fantastic support that Bernie provides, it makes me want to go out and get a Chevy 4X4. The great forum members make this a truly wonderful site.
corvette1 Posted February 12, 2008 Report Posted February 12, 2008 its a switch on the tranfercase thats what mine was hope this helps
brkygetr Posted February 14, 2008 Author Report Posted February 14, 2008 well it works...just not quite stock!!!! I got the new switch and installed it with unfortunaetly no results...BOOOOO!!!! So I guess that left a problem with the cam...which I assume involves ripping apart the tranfer case which I am not interested in doing...but....being a bit of a red-neck jerry-rig type of guy I decided to bypass the switch and install a toggle switch on my dash...after an hour or so of running wire and tapping a hole in the floor I ended up with a working 4 wheel drive system... YEEE HAW!!!!!!! Thank-you once again Bernie for your help with this...without it I would definaetly have got stuck out on the lake....it really goes to show that there are folks on this forum that really will go out of your way to help out another member. I appreciate it. Rainy Lake here I come!!!!! I'll have pics by the weekend!!! Dale
shane Posted February 14, 2008 Report Posted February 14, 2008 Way to go! I love happy endings of the mechanical kind.
Bernie Posted February 14, 2008 Report Posted February 14, 2008 Sorry it didn't work out the way it should have. Have seen that happen once before. But on a Dodge. It should work just fine hooked up to a dash toggle switch.
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