Big Cliff Posted February 8, 2008 Report Posted February 8, 2008 I have a bit of a problem. Twice now I have had ice dams build up on my roof causing water to back up and end up leaking through my shingels. Believe me there is no sound quite as disheartening as the drip, drip, drip of water on your living room floor at three am. I was just wondering about these heating cables that I have seen around and wondering if they would damage the shingels. Any suggestions?
taper Posted February 8, 2008 Report Posted February 8, 2008 Cliff I don't know if they will damage the shingles or not but I can tell you they really suck the hydro. We had to use them on our water piping for years in the crawl space and they can cost a fortune in hydro over a season. Hopefully a roofer will chime in hear but I believe if the roof has a decent pitch the problem lies with heat escaping into the attic and poor ventilation.
Greencoachdog Posted February 8, 2008 Report Posted February 8, 2008 We use heat tape down here to keep some exterior water line from freezing Cliff. It wouldn't get hot enough to hurt your shingles, if it's the kind I'm talking about.
motv8tr Posted February 8, 2008 Report Posted February 8, 2008 I've never used them myself but have heard that they can be a fire hazzard and it's been recomended not to use them unless someone is home to keep an eye out. Maureen
Gerritt Posted February 8, 2008 Report Posted February 8, 2008 Heat Trace is absolutely safe to use Cliff and will prevent ice dams. it is not the same stuff that is used around water pipes. G
rickster Posted February 8, 2008 Report Posted February 8, 2008 the heat lines would be a temporay fix but i would suggest getting some insulation in the attic as ice on your eaves is a sign of heat loss a properly insulated attic should solve the problem
SlowPoke Posted February 8, 2008 Report Posted February 8, 2008 Definitly call in the specialists for this one before you spend a dime. I think you have an insulation/ventilation problem causing the freeze and thaw which in turn caused a leak. If you put heat to your roof, everything you melt might end up in your living room because you didn't fix the problem. If your attic is properly insulated and sealed with vapour barrier and you have soffit vents and roof vents, you will never need those ice melters because your roof will maintain ambiant outside temperature and snow/ice will melt evenly. -Brian
Whopper Posted February 8, 2008 Report Posted February 8, 2008 (edited) Cliff Gerritt is correct they make snow melt cable specifically for roof applications The following is a link for you to look at http://www.tycothermal.com/usa/english/sno...al/default.aspx Good luck! Edited February 8, 2008 by Whopper
Wes Bender Posted February 8, 2008 Report Posted February 8, 2008 (edited) I was a roofer for many years. Rickster is absolutely correct. I have installed the heat cables (i hate them) but they are safe and they work. It is, however, only a cover up for the real problem. Remove and replace the ice up insulation and add another layer and you should be fine. As for hydro consumption. I have no idea, but you don't have to have them plugged in 24/7. Just plug them in until the ice is gone. When you start to notice the ice building again, plug'em back in. If your in a financial position to do so then have a roofer come look at your ventilation. As SlowPoke mentioned your attic should always be the same temp as it is outside. Edited February 8, 2008 by Wes Bender
Dartee Posted February 8, 2008 Report Posted February 8, 2008 Cliff The Cables do work. As for the ICE build up, what exposure does the section of roof have? The issue I have with my roof in one spot (usually below -5'C ), is the snow melts at the top of the roof were shingles may be exposed to the sun but when the water gets down to the aluminum trough it freezes up, eventually plugging the trough and downspout tight with ice. I use the cable to clear the trough and spout of Ice once it appears to be building up which stops the backing up onto the shingle. The trouble spot is the valley with a North East exposure. The top can be in the sun most of the day, but the bottom at the eves is in the shade after 10am.
Big Cliff Posted February 8, 2008 Author Report Posted February 8, 2008 Dartee, that's exactly where my problem is NE exposure, the sun starts melting at the peak, water runs down to the bottom where it is shaded by some big cedar trees so it starts to form an ice dam. There is a valley there too which focuses all the water into a narrow area. As more melting occurs the dam builds until the water gets backed up and finds it's way through the shingles. i do have R40 in up there and several vents (although I haven't climed up in the attic to check it in person, I'm a little to old and too big to get up in there anymore). Guess I am going to have to invest in one of those cables, it can't cost anymore to run it than it costs to repair the damages when it does leak. Thanks for all the input guys!
irishfield Posted February 8, 2008 Report Posted February 8, 2008 Them Cedars make good dock boards Cliff !
Big Cliff Posted February 8, 2008 Author Report Posted February 8, 2008 ya, they would but I don't think the guy next door would appreciate me cutting them down; they are on his property LOL. I wonder how much roundup it takes to kill about 20 30' cedar trees?
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