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Winterizing 4 stroke kicker


icefisherman

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Could someone advice on how to winterize my 4 stroke Yamaha 9.9 high thrust kicker?

Have no idea what to do but would love to do fairly major service to make sure everything is done right as I am not sure what the previous owned have/have not done to it. All I know is it was not winterized. I'd like to do it ASAP so then I have the time for mounting, securing, installing steering arm and remote throttle control etc. during the winter.

Can I do it myself or should I take to Yamaha service place and is there a good (not super expensive) one in West GTA (Milton, Oakville, Burlington, Mississauga, Brampton)?

 

Thanks,

 

Cheers,

Ice Fisherman

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Simple Emil..change the oil..motor and lower unit...pop the two spark plugs out..spray some storage spray in..reinstall the plugs...give it a couple pulls..hook the plug wires back up and put it away !

 

yeah.. what he said...

 

I dont think you need to buy anything special..

for myself i use the quicksilver products...

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It might have an oil filter although I almost doubt it on that size motor, usually most lower units use 75/80/90 hypoid oil, available at CTC. Most of the 4 strokes use a 10/30 oil. Yamaha doesn't make oil, just buys from someone else and sticks their name on it and raises the price. I personally use synthetics, but that again is everyones own choice. Don't forget to drain the carburater, there is usually a small screw on the lower edge of the bowl with a piece of fuel hose attached to let it drain into a cup. Quick hint, refill the lower unit from the bottom screw, when it comes out the top screw, replace it, then replace the lower screw.

Edited by Fisherman
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It might have an oil filter although I almost doubt it on that size motor, usually most lower units use 75/80/90 hypoid oil, available at CTC. Most of the 4 strokes use a 10/30 oil. Yamaha doesn't make oil, just buys from someone else and sticks their name on it and raises the price. I personally use synthetics, but that again is everyones own choice. Don't forget to drain the carburater, there is usually a small screw on the lower edge of the bowl with a piece of fuel hose attached to let it drain into a cup. Quick hint, refill the lower unit from the bottom screw, when it comes out the top screw, replace it, then replace the lower screw.

 

 

OK I have some lower unit oil left from my old 60HP Johnson 2 stroke motor. It should work for the 4 stroke kicker right?

 

I know the trick with the bottom/top screw as I've struggled with this before on my Johnson :wallbash:

 

So as long as CT oil has 4 stroke sign on it and is 10/30 it'll work for me?

Sounds easier then I thought :clapping:

 

Cheers,

Ice Fisherman

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lower unit oil have washers on them that should be replaced every year too.

 

You're right Lew and that is something the dealer never did either when they changed the bottom end oil on mine. They changed my oil the first 2 times since new. I changed it myself this year and guess what? Both seals had the original factory paint on the outer edge of them. I changed the seals this time and they charged me a buck a piece for them.

Edited by pikehunter
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Just incase your not aware of it, the screws you remove to drain the lower unit oil have washers on them that should be replaced every year too.

 

Only a few ¢ each but something many folks fail to change.

 

 

Well I was charged at Yamaha dealer in Oakville $1,24 each for those washers...I am sure they don't cost the dealer more then 2c. Same dealer charged me $13 for a small bottle of lower unit oil :wallbash: I have full bottle of gear oil from my old Johnson motor but dealer told me it is not good for the Yamaha kicker.

 

Can I use syntetic oil 10/30? I happen to have 4-5 bottles and would like to use them if I can.

 

Motor is not connected to a fuel line right now so can I just drain what ever gas is left in carburator and fog it whithout having to run it/connect it to fuel line with stabilizer in the fuel?

 

Also...seems this Yamaha kicker has an oil filter...but one that you only take out, clean up and put back in....does that make sence to you guys?

 

Thanks.

Cheers,

Ice Fisherman

Edited by icefisherman
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Well I was charged at Yamaha dealer in Oakville $1,24 each for those washers...I am sure they don't cost the dealer more then 2c.

Thanks.

Cheers,

Ice Fisherman

 

Just a note Icefisherman on the price of the washers from the other side of the counter. I will guarantee that the dealer paid more than 2c for them. All these dinky little parts are expensive for a reason. The manufacturing cost is likely very low but when you consider how many people have to ship, handle, inventory, look up the part for the final sale it adds to the cost. At our shop selling these small pieces is actually a loss by the time the partsman looks it up and rings it through. Not complaining just adding a point of view.

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Check what lower oil is required for your motor, I'm betting it's 75/90 or 80/90, if that's what you have from your old Johanstone, then you're okay, $13 for a small bottle, I'd shove it up his toothless wonder and give him a slick enema, thief. As for the cleanable oil filter? can you post a picture maybe? Old VW Bugs used to have them, nothing much more than mosquito netting to filter out the chunks.

Edited by Fisherman
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Old Johnson gear oil says Hi-Vis on the bottle so Yamaha dealer said it is the wrong one for the Yamaha 4 stroke kicker.

 

Cheers,

Ice Fisherman

 

 

There are at least two types of lower end oil. Do you know if your old Johnson had electric shift? They used a different type of oil.

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No he said SHIFT Emil ! Like the old OMC drives...they needed a special oil that won't short out the electic solenoid/wiring.

 

As for $13 for the proper lower unit oil... so what.. what's your lower end worth? Mercs HP oil for the lower end is $15.95 for a quart. Takes about 1/2 a bottle for my 9.9 and almost a full one for my Verado. $32 to protect the lower ends for a year. In the grand scheme of things...money well spent IMHO especially on a kicker that may be working harder than if you had it on a 12' tinny.

 

As for full synthetics...you'll never catch me going there. Full synthetics don't climb gears..they just push out of the way leaving the driven gear dry in some instances. Normal oil or a blend for me.

 

 

..and what Bernie said about the washers. I have customers blow gaskets when they see what I charge them for an aircraft bolt sometimes (even when it's only $1.25). The fact I have it in stock is worth the price alone, if you don't have to wait for it to come in. Then consider the time it takes to go get it and bring it to the counter, exchange money etc or god forbid you want to pay for it with VISA.... that costs me 4.5% to the Payment tech crooks..... $1.25 sale, at $1/minute for labour... Now if we're talkin those $26 seals Joey bought the other day..well .. LOL

Edited by irishfield
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Well, I'm still not convinced it's nothing more than "hypoid oil" depending on the classification, GL4/GL5 or the viscosity weight 75/90 or80/90. I don't think the kicker will have an electric shift solenoid in the lower unit. As for the synthetics, you won't catch me without them, I've been using it for over 30 years, for me it's worked with no wear. For what Yamaha wants for "their" oil I can get 2 litres of Marine synthetic, each to his own. And by "their" oil, it's nothing more than bulk bought and rebadged with a healthy price increase.

 

Took a bit of searching but finally found a site that gives the specs for the smaller motors, GL5 lower unit oil like I suspected and also gives your engine oil and filter, take a look at the prices. http://www.marineengine.com/parts/sierra_p...024/yamaha.html

Edited by Fisherman
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