Add in your battery, a couple tackle boxes, a powerplant of some description, maybe a cooler for your lunch and refreshments plus a few other things you better be a skinny couple in the boat.
500 lb capacity.
Nice looking work there Leechman!
An uncle used to make his musky lures. Caught one of his biggest ones on one that was natural wood color varnished.
There is another guy on here that makes his own musky lures, very nice ones too.....right Roy?
Tambo, where is it coming from? It could be coming out of the exhaust.
If it is it may be somewhat normal.
Extended slow speeds with an oil mix too rich or sometimes cheap oil that doesn't burn off properly.
The best way to check your lower unit oil is to remove the bottom oil drain plug on the lower unit and see if water runs out or if the oil is creamy looking.
Here is something to think about.
Rarely do you run your car wide open throttle or even 3/4 throttle for any length of time. In a boat it's often done.
My dad often said running a boat engine is like driving your car uphill all the time. It's a good analogy.
Don't piss around with the wrong kind of oil.
Use what is recommended.
The switches on these vehicles were poorly made. I suspect they were made by the same people that made power window switches for Montana and Venture vans and the emergency/signal flasher switches for several GM products.
The ignition switch for these models is kept in stock by my local AC Delco supplier as they are a fast mover.
What I have discovered in the past is the contacts inside the switch can go open circuit. It could be one of several which can create different symptoms.
So bypassing the antitheft system likely isn't going to help in this case.
There is a list several pages long on the auto tech network I belong to on this problem.
Most all agree the switch is the issue.
The switch is $200 bucks and about an hour to replace.
Not so much through the summer months but the long winter nights it's interesting. We have a local group where we post pictures and stories of my home town. There are close to a thousand pictures there now. Great way to keep in touch with old school mates.
Looked at Twitter for a bit, found it boring.
Actually it can create a risk. It causes undo stress on the coil spring which could make it snap and it can also create a pull to the left or right from the spring windup.
And yes Burtess, you can replace one side only.
Aww gee. I didn't get to help.
They are a little tricky to do the first time. But you don't need to remove the driveshaft. I have done them outside on the ground.
The screws tend to sieze in up here from road salt but you shouldn't need to worry about that Joe.
Henry may have it right with the upper strut bearings. On a vehicle with a mcstrut suspension the whole assembly is designed to turn. If a bearing is siezed the coil spring will wind up until it overcomes the sticking/siezed bearing. When this happens the coil releases its energy and will create a popping sound and you will feel it in the steering wheel.
It would be a good idea to have the whole suspension and steering system checked.
Have to disagree on this point. Worked at a dealership in the past. A flat rate shop will often create an environment of technicians who do not want to spend much quality time on some jobs. Good techs will often work for an independent shop.....or start their own one.
Well done on the posting Cliff. Pretty much sums it up.
There is a reason why we do this a couple times a year....It's a lot of fun!
Thanks for the laughs guys.